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Post by grbell1834 on Mar 19, 2012 11:59:33 GMT -6
Could I ask what you got ($$) for your 07 scooter?
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Post by grbell1834 on Mar 5, 2012 15:08:28 GMT -6
Now that we have a fully operational bike, brakes OK, cooling OK engine running smoothly, and purge control device repaired and non leaking. Bike is BMS 250 cc Macho Man touring, radio, luggage box, clean, very low miles, 2006, (2) helmets and gas can. This was $2100 new.
BMS is out of business, but there are sources for some parts, as I have found attempting to fix all this.
If I were to put this up for sale, what would one ask for it?? Anybody have any ideas. Location, Tampa, FL area.
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Post by grbell1834 on Mar 5, 2012 14:59:19 GMT -6
I believe my glue job worked. I put the thing back together and mounted to the seat housing and all seems to work well and no leaking. I don't think at this time I will need the a replacement part. Thanks to all.
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Post by grbell1834 on Mar 2, 2012 16:19:25 GMT -6
If you would go back to my thread started on 250cc water cooled problems, the fourth picture down shows this white plastic device. In this picture you see this right adjacent to the container of Prestone on the floor with the funnel in it. Are we talking about the same thing? Always seems to me that there has been fuel present in this bowl. In taking this appart, the center tube is partially broken on the bottom. I've tried to glue with super super special glue, and have it clamped right now. If this is what you are talking about, and my glue job doesn't work, do you know where I can get one of these?
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Post by grbell1834 on Mar 1, 2012 16:18:24 GMT -6
I'm gonna try the following firstly. I've traced the (3) tubes and I believe now I have them correctly mounted on this plastic bowl device. There are (3) tubes teminated on the bottom of this bowl device. This is small fuel line stuff, either .25 in or 5/16. Say looking at it from behind and call them left, center, right. The left one comes off the this round pan cake looking device, which has an imput from the gas tank. The right one, exits the bowl and goes to the area of the carburator. Looking inside the bowl, both the left and right are are flush inputs with the bottom of the bowl. The center post sticks up an inch or so inside this bowl, and appears to act as some sort of overflow. The exit tube on the center post appears to head to the front of the bike and maybe back to the gas tank, as I cannot see far enough as to where this terminates. I'm wondering why the gas fills up in bowl, obvioulsy over the post inside the overflow, fills the bowl and wants to leak at the cap.
Regardless, today I found the same size o-ring as used on the cap, except a hair thicker, and (3) compression type clamp fittings from the hardware store, that I'm going to install, and see what happens with anymore leaking. I can't say I'm anomored with the Chinese and their use of these little cheap ass spring type compression fittings on anything requiring a coolant, fuel, or vacuum connection. Todate, I've relplaced all the coolant fittings with positive ring type clamps. I'm going to try to beef up the connections and see if there are anymore leaks and report back.
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Post by grbell1834 on Mar 1, 2012 15:49:16 GMT -6
Seems a bit odd that richardthescooter3 has the same issue with the rear brake pressure and feel as I do with mine. The front has a whole lot more pressure build than the rear, and the brake handle does not compress as much to the handle bar on the front as it does on the rear.
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Post by grbell1834 on Feb 29, 2012 16:15:06 GMT -6
I solved the brake issue and the cooling issue. Now putting it all back together, I'm finding this plastic fuel basin leaking. There is this device underneath the seat, and located near the front, which has a removable cap. There are (3) small lines all connected to the fuel system. This bowl normally fills up with some fuel. There appears to be a overflow thing inside the bowl, as there are these internal plastic posts, that are connected to the three lines underneath. Now, I'm not sure if I put the three lines back on their respective posts or just what, because now it seems the fuel fills the whole bowl, and with accelerating the engine, leaks out the cap. There is an o-ring on this cap that may be worn out. I checked the parts guy in Elgin and they don't seem to carry this part. Might you have a diagram on this and where the three lines are suppose to go? I'm not so sure the engine would run if I got the hoses mixed up. Two of them appear to go to the carb. I can't follow the middle one, but heads back to the front of the bike and most likely to the gas tank? I either got see if I have the hoses on right or am in need of this part, or at least an o-ring for the sealing the cap. Suppose I could take a picture if you need?
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Post by grbell1834 on Feb 29, 2012 15:50:10 GMT -6
I finally got this under control by removing the top thermostat sending device which houses the thermostat. With much grief as there is not a whole lot of room, I got it out and was able to take it appart and expose the thermostat. The bottom of this housing and the thermostat was encased in a bunch of gunk, and it plugged off the flow of the coolant. I think this was the result of non usage and sitting idle too much. The OEM supplied coolant appeared to have reacted with the aluminum housing on the bottom of this and where the main hose is connected to the raditor. I took the thing appart, removed the thermostat, cleaned all the parts, and put back together. I connected it all back up, and wal-ah, there is now hot fluid in the radiator fill cap. I ran for about a half hour or so, and now only got the temp gauge to run about half way. Now I've got to go through, the burping thing again, but I think this will be good to go.
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Post by grbell1834 on Feb 29, 2012 15:35:43 GMT -6
I got the front brake to build more so than the rear, but I do have some braking on the rear.
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Post by grbell1834 on Feb 28, 2012 12:30:18 GMT -6
Thanks for the info on the bake caliper. I removed the front brake caliper and forced pressurized air into it, and discovered that the pistons were difficult in moving. You can remove the ABS device and expose that threaded hole, and force air into that if you have a rubber nozzel on the end of the air gun. I had to increase the pressure up to 100psi before I got the pistons to blow out. I don't know for sure if its just been been for sitting sometime, but the internal seals seem rather dry, so I lubed them up a bit with some brake fluid, put back together and made sure they were working freely, and set them so there was just enough clearence in the brake pad opening to slide over the rotor. I re bled the line and the master cylinder, removed any and all air, and wah lah, pressure finaly built on the brake lever, and now have adequate braking to stop this freaking bike. I wanted to try this with the air thing before investing $65.00 in a new caliper. I thought I would elaborate on this some in case some others ever run into this issue. Thanks for you patience and all the help.
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Post by grbell1834 on Feb 20, 2012 13:30:57 GMT -6
Two things. Have any idea how that allen head screw, or the adjustment screw is set? This regulates the force on the spring and intern the same force on the piston. There is quite alot of travel and subsequent threads on this adjustment? Got any thoughts as to what be the issues if the spring and piston were removed?
I have already replaced the master cylinder pistons, as I thought the former might have had worn seals. This fix unfortunately didn't help, and as a result probably didn't need to be replaced.
Thanks for all your help.
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Post by grbell1834 on Feb 20, 2012 12:23:19 GMT -6
Just thinking what the concequence might be if I removed the internal piston and spring of the ABS device? If its a working brake vs ABS brakes, that would be OK by me. This ABS claimer is really not ABS like on a car for these bikes. From what I read its a basically a hydraulic limiter to prevent the brakes from locking. Right now, I'd be happy with any kind of braking.
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Post by grbell1834 on Feb 20, 2012 11:54:09 GMT -6
Does anyone understand the ABS piston and how it works? I took off and took apart. One removes a cap on the bottom which exposes an allen head bolt which puts pressure internally on a piston and spring. When I cleaned and put back together, I thought I tightened or returned to the original position. Is there anyway to set this? Can this be the reason I cannot build the pressure on the caliper? Probably should not have nuts with this to begin with, but there was some crud and build of old fluid on the internal piston and spring, which I thought might be imparing its function?
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Post by grbell1834 on Feb 20, 2012 10:06:28 GMT -6
I've attempted fast pumps, slow pumps, waiting, etc. Cannot build the pressure. I get nothing but clear fluid in the bleed tube and no evidence of any air. The nipple is at the highest point of the caliper, so the the brake fluid makes it course from the master cylinder, thru the line, thru the ABS device and into the caliper. The fluid must fill the caliper before it would find its way out thru the nipple. It would only make sense at this point, and no evidence of any air in the bleed tube, that the pressure should build in the caliper, push the pistons out and appply pressure to the pads and close on the rotor, however this does not happen. I might have to resort to a bike shop, however I've contacted a few and they refuse to work on Chinese made bikes. Is there anybody in the Tampa area that could make a recommendation for servicing these brakes?
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Post by grbell1834 on Feb 15, 2012 11:59:03 GMT -6
Now I've tried this proceedure at least three times with filling the master cylinder, bleeding all apparent air, squeezing brake lever very very slowly to just brake fluid in bleeder line, with the master cylinder cover/gasket/plunger in place and tight. Close the nipple tight and cannot build pressure on the caliper. I don't get it???
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