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Post by grbell1834 on Feb 15, 2012 10:36:40 GMT -6
yoster
If you could take the radiator cap off at the neck fill and check temp. Turn on and let idle for some time as to get the temp gauge to elevate to where it normally runs, and then record that temp. You might get some fluid out of the neck if the overflow bottle is full, so there fore you might want to capture this if it runs out on your driveway, or garage floor. I think your problem might be with the fan switch sensor, typically located on the bottom of the radiator. Sounds to me, that that might be closing way before your coolant elevates to the desired and calibrated temperature for that to happen.
I'll try to take some engine temps, but I only have a digital thermometer, and not an infared device. I am not so sure how accuarate it might be by touching the tip to the cylinder, or other engine parts, as more air will be surrounding the probe.
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Post by grbell1834 on Feb 15, 2012 9:14:04 GMT -6
n4zou
I am assuming with the line off the nipple to a bottle below the caliper, that the tube itself will never completely fill, unless the bottle were to completely fill? Otherwise, I have gone thru the procedure as you have suggested, by taping the nipple, attaching the tube to a collection bottle, flooded the end of the tube in the bottle, etc. I get a few major air bubbles in the beggining, followed by some very tiny tiny small ones, etc. After the evidence of the tiny ones seems to dissapear, I cannot seem to get even the fluid out of the tube at this point, and of course no pressure builds. Still perplexed!!
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Post by grbell1834 on Feb 14, 2012 13:13:47 GMT -6
Sorry, been gone and unable to check on your response. I have however let run with the cap off an additional 15 mins and up to a half hour hour running at idle. Once again the temp of the fluid in the neck fill does not seem to elevate, beyond room temp or 75 or so. Engine seems to get plenty warm, but I can't get an accurate measurement of that. Once again the temp seems to creep up on the gage and pegs out hot. If I remove the pickup wire on the upper temp device, I get no reading of temp on the gauge on the instruement panel. So I think the instruement panel gauge is OK, but maybe an issue with the upper sending device. However I'm still concerned that after a half hour of running, not much is happening with the temp of the fluid. How long do you think just running at idle would it take for the fluid to elevate. Something just doesn't seem to be adding up, and I'm afraid of pushing the envelope sort of speaking and running and burning the thing up, creating a heap of junk at that point.
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Post by grbell1834 on Feb 14, 2012 12:56:02 GMT -6
Thanks for the response on the brakes. I've been gone the last week or so and unable to try these attempts at fixing the problem with the air in the system, but will do so in the next day or two. The problem I had was with the brakes going soft, because I let the old fluid remain too long and it must have attracked moisture and got contaminated. I didn't realize this would be such a problem to replace and re-pressurize. Truly, what a pain in the butt.
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Post by grbell1834 on Jan 31, 2012 15:03:12 GMT -6
I am having trouble restoring the pressure on both front and rear disk brakes.
I am at my wits end on trying to get the air out of the lines.
I have gone thru numerous bleeds and refills, appears to be clean, free of air brake fluid, and cannot build pressure on the brake pads. I've taken all apart, including the ABS pistons. the little piston element inside the ABS cylinder appears to be working ok. I've taken the caliper off, applied air pressure, and the cylinders that move the pads, work fine, not bound or held. I've replaced the piston element inside the master cylinder. I've watched the video on line and have done all, except I have let the fluid levels go to empty in the master cylinder. I fill, purge out fluid at caliper valve until all air bubbles gone, and just clear fluid in plastic tube, close relief value, and cannot get pressure to build. Have tried two different brake fluids to no avail. What does anybody suggest?
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Post by grbell1834 on Jan 31, 2012 13:16:00 GMT -6
I ran the bike at idle for a good 15 mins. During this whole time I removed the radiator cap, and checked the cooling fluid.
There is motion of the fluid. The fluid would go up and down in the neck. When the overflow container got full, then the fluid would spill out over the top and collect in a pan underneath the bike on the floor. I could tell the engine heated up, and the temp gauge went to hot before shuting down. During this whole time the tempature of the cooling fluid did not increase a degree but stayed at near the ambient temperature of 74 degrees F. I measured the temp with a digital thermometer, and also cool to the touch. The fan in all this has never come on. Getting fustrated.
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Post by grbell1834 on Jan 30, 2012 16:02:51 GMT -6
Still having elevated temps. I run, let cool down overnight, remove cap and add just a little 50/50 coolant in the neck. Doesn't take much, like an ounce or so. Been using Prestone 50/50, and we live in Florida, so it doesn't ever get very cold.
I checked the manual above on the thermostat. Getting at this looks like a complete bear as it is on the bottom of that thermosensing device near the carb to remove, inspect and test? Manual for testing indicates 80 to be opened. I'm assuming the mean 80 degress C, as there is no ref as to measurement is required.
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Post by grbell1834 on Jan 25, 2012 9:15:41 GMT -6
I am preety sure it is not the waterpump. I have had the housing off at the impeller and all appears to be well in this regard as it spins freely with the engine started. Also experience coolant flow thru the neck in the burping process. Isn't the thermostat actually the radiator fill cap? Or is the thermostat located in a different location. If so where would I look for this device. I'll attempt to fill and try again as now scooter sat overnight and is bone cold.
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Post by grbell1834 on Jan 24, 2012 15:36:05 GMT -6
JR I received the correct radiator cap and new neck filler from your parts dealer up in Elgin, Ill. I have gone thru the burping exercise at least a few times now. The temp gague continues to run up toward hot, before I shut it down, let cool down, cycle and re-fill. The fan does not come on either. Got any further ideas? What is the function of the temperature device up near the carb? This device has a sensor for the temp gague on the instrument panel. That part seems to work ok, because if I disconnet the wire, there is no temp reading on the instrument panel gague. Does this part do anything else which could cause the temp to rise?
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Post by grbell1834 on Jan 19, 2012 14:49:06 GMT -6
Here is picture of BMS Macho Man 250. Looks as if the rear whell measures 10 in on the radius. Thanks for the links, as it appears the source has the parts and the right parts. Next issue I have is with the ABS brakes on this and getting the fluid replaced and getting pressure to build, but I will take out a new thread on this issue.  |
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Post by grbell1834 on Jan 18, 2012 19:18:10 GMT -6
The fan works, so no further need here. Probably have not gotten the temp high enough in the radiator for it to go on. We'll see what happens with new radiator cap, when you can find me the right one. Thanks.
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Post by grbell1834 on Jan 18, 2012 18:26:21 GMT -6
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Post by grbell1834 on Jan 18, 2012 16:12:37 GMT -6
How does one attach photos on reply? I try to attach and then I get an error that I cannot post.
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Post by grbell1834 on Jan 18, 2012 14:34:01 GMT -6
Thanks for the response. The China bike I bought (in 2006) was a BMS (Baron Motorcycle) and nameplate also indicates bike mfg by Shanghai JM Star Motorcycle Ltd. BMS is defunct and out of business. The radiator cap was a CF Moto2125 as stamped on the top of the cap. The inside diameter of the cap measures approx 2.9 cm's, and the outside diameter of the cap measures 4.5 cm's. The engine says 250 cc displacement. I can send photos if necessary. Thanks for the tip on the proper cap and working properly with the overflow reservoir. I'm sure I can return the one I purchased. I can send pic's if need be on any of this, ie cap, engine, etc.
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Post by grbell1834 on Jan 18, 2012 9:38:55 GMT -6
Had to replace the CF Moto radiator cap, with another from a bike shop locally. The new cap had a higher spring tension than the original one supplied. The fellow at the store told me the new cap would help things to run cooler. The opposite seems to be true as the temp gage now runs all the way up to just a smidge under "hot". However, I cannot seem to get the radiator hot enough to trip the cooling fan on. I am afraid to run the run the thing without causing major damage to the engine? Could the fan sensor on the bottom of the radiator be defective? Don't know where I can obtain one of those. Does anybody know a source for the CF Moto radiator cap?
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