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I don't forget scooter riders. There is a little scooter rider always inside of me
Scooters are great. And like cruiser said. I still have one scooter.
This is just one step what I have to try because you have to live your dreams. And this is one of my long time dreams

JR that all is so much to do that it would be better to buy linhai version at the first place. Much easier now when we know all this

Just one HID light makes a really really big change compared to stock bulbs. So this setup really is good enough. Hot grip heaters plus one hid plus cooling fan running.

Yes my HID lights are hooked up to the battery and I use relay. And for another light there is a external switch. I don't believe the white wire can handle the load for two HID light. And because of low wattage it might even blow the ballasts.

Let's calculate

Original current draw with stock setup:
- head lights 2*25W
- registry plate light 5W
- small driving lights in front 2*3W
- gauge bulbs 3*3W
- indicator lights under the gauge 3*1,4W
- back lights 2*5W
- stock fan 3.71amp = 44,5W
totally = 128,7W ~ 10,7 amp

with less amp mod (estimated watt values for leds)
- HID lights 2*35W
- led registry plate light 4,5W
- led small driving lights in front 2*2W
- led gauge bulbs 3*2W
- led indicator lights under the gauge 3*1W
- led back lights 2*3W
- Low amp fan 2.33amp = 27,96W
totally = 121.46W ~ 10,1 amp

As you see with led mod + low amp fan + 2x35W HID lighs the total current draw should be a little bit (0.6 amp) lower than with original components. There should be no problem with battery charge after this mod. In my calculation above I even might have put too high load for led bulbs. But still that led mod wattage is lower than stock.

BUT... when people talk about HID lights that they only takes 35W each that is not correct. HID bulbs might take 35W plus the ballasts take also about 10W per each.
You can see it for example in here (lowest multimeter)


So real led mod calculations should be more like
with less amp mod (estimated watt values for leds)
- HID lights 2*35W
- HID ballasts 2*10W
- led registry plate light 4,5W
- led small driving lights in front 2*2W
- led gauge bulbs 3*2W
- led indicator lights under the gauge 3*1W
- led back lights 2*3W
- Low amp fan 2.33amp = 27,96W
totally = 141.46W ~ 11,8 amp

Now depending ballast load (10-15W) the led mod current draw is 1.1 - 2.5 ampere more than with stock setup.
That is why led mod + low amp fan is not enough

So I don't believe there should be any reason to even try to connect HID lights to the white wire. HID lights needs about 7.5 - 8.3 ampere and if the white wire is always almost as low as 12.7V when stock fan is replaced with low amp fan (see my result table) is that 12.7V enough for HID lights? If ballasts does not get enough current they keep noise and might blow up. Soon you will drive without lights. I think HID's should be connected to the battery in every case.


And if I use led mod + only one HID + stock fan it takes totally 110W which is less than stock 128.7W. With grip heaters added it is totally near 135-140W which is little less than with led mod. With grip heaters on, one hid light on and cooling fan on charge gets just under 13.2V when idle. But with a little revs it keeps it over 13.2V which is good.

So cfmoto can handle about 130-135W total current load with idle. And maybe 135-140W while driving. It is not that much less than with two hid lights on without grip heaters. But too much still. There is no place where one can save more current. Except by removing all led bulbs but is that good enough. Or is that even smart anymore.

I did not change that lower amp fan. The original fan used 3.7 amp when I checked.
I bought that Silicone itake systems low amp fan but did not put it on yet. That low amp fan used 2.3 amp when I tested it directly to battery.

I just checked those different wiring diagrams and JR you are right. All I need to do for testing is to take a piece of extra wire and connect it to the white wire of R/R and to the fuse connector of cooling fan

I will test it tomorrow after work and let you know. And if it works with fan and also charging is good with two hids on and grip heaters on I will order another one for a sparepart

We'll know more again tomorrow I am also pretty excited

Today mailman bring me this 7 wire regulator. I decided to try it after winter because it's already too cold now.












Just kidding

When I got it I run to my scooter with multimeter. I checked the wiring and colours are the same and in same order. Only this white mysterious wire is extra.
I put this new R/R on and started the engine. Good start and everything worked. All the electrics were good.

I put one xenon light on and let the engine run hot and started to take some readings from R/R coloured wires. Here are the results.


So tell me why this white wire voltage is changing so much when fan turns on?
Other wires stay pretty steady no matter is the fan on or off.

If the cooling fan wiring will be removed from charging circuit and connected to that white wire, 11.3-12.1V when idling with hot engine might not be enough to keep the fan on?
But could it work good enough?

I ordered that cheaper one and now we just wait 2-4 weeks.
Then we know better