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Post by jalat on Sept 14, 2011 11:59:16 GMT -6
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Post by jalat on Sept 14, 2011 5:05:59 GMT -6
Okay. This is so confusing. I will be the guinea pig and buy one of those 7 wire R/R from scrappy if they put one cheap R/R back to list on ebay. I asked if they still have those and they answered "yes". I asked them to list one of them to ebay and then I will buy one.
Because of I live in another side of earth it will take 2-4 weeks when package arrives. But first they have to list it back to ebay.
Then I will check the voltages of every coloured wire.
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ARRGGG!!!
by: jalat - Sept 12, 2011 22:34:52 GMT -6
Post by jalat on Sept 12, 2011 22:34:52 GMT -6
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Post by jalat on Sept 8, 2011 5:30:39 GMT -6
Hopefully tvnacman will measure the R/R volts soon  |
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Post by jalat on Sept 8, 2011 0:26:15 GMT -6
I have been testing my charging couple of days. I decided to drive for a one week my regular everyday driving with both HIDs on. Mostly driving to work and same to home. About totally 20km per day and 50-50 city and highway driving. On sunday cold battery show 12.53 Volts. Test begin. On tuesday evening cold battery show 12.32 Volts. The whole wednesday I drive also with grip heaters on. On thursday morning cold battery show 12.26 Volts. State of Charge100% 12.7v *75% 12.4v 50% 12.2v 25% 12.0v Discharged 11.9v *Sulfation of Batteries starts when specific gravity falls below 1.225 or voltage measures less than 12.4 for a 12v battery, or 6.2 for a 6 volt battery. Sulfation hardens on the battery plates reducing and eventually destroying the ability of the battery to generate Volts and Amps.At the moment my battery says 12.26 volts which mean about only 50%-60% state of charge. But still my scooter starts like a lighting. I only need to show my finger to start button and WROOM it's running. Weird. But I guess it's better to stop this test or I will broke my battery. |
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Post by jalat on Sept 6, 2011 13:10:14 GMT -6
What stator is the stock stator in this yy250t cfmoto scooter?
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Post by jalat on Sept 5, 2011 0:17:23 GMT -6
Hmm... In my case (headlights on without engine running) would it be easier to leave the cooling fan wiring as it is originally and just connect hid light positive wire to that R/R white wire instead of battery+ ? Then I loose my headlights when engine is not running. But that is not problem at all. Just thinking  |
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Post by jalat on Sept 5, 2011 0:05:29 GMT -6
At the moment I have long time run test with my current setup. I will drive one or two weeks using both hid lights on and will then check the battery voltage. I started this test run yesterday and battery was showing 12.53V.
The weather is now much colder than month ago and this affects dramatically for cooling. Fan is not running off all the time.
But if the battery will go near 12.0V then I might give it a try for this another regulator.
Thank you JR for the cheaper link. LOL
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Post by jalat on Sept 4, 2011 21:40:27 GMT -6
Second last item in this page is 7 pin R/R. This looks just like the one I use in my jonway, but mine has only 6 wire. I changed my stock R/R to this kind of smaller R/R and got 0.2-0.4V better charge. Picture of 6 wire stock R/R (bottom) and smaller CH250 6 wire R/R (top)The connectors looks like identical in 6 wire and 7 wire R/R and I believe the wires are in same order too. Could it do the trick? If you see that green one is not coming from the stator (like in your drawing). The green one is coming from the R/R and is in the same connector just like in stock R/R. And in the stock connector there are two connectors. One 3 pin connector for yellow wired and one 4 pin connector for red, green and black wires. Which leaves the fourth wire place for free and in 7 wire R/R it is used for white wire. That white one could be the one for cooling fan Cost only 24.95 usd. Darn that I live in Finland. Shipping costs are easily 25-30 usd more. Please someone of you who lives in the USA and have tried to use two xenon bulbs with charging issues, buy that regulator and report here does it do good ;D (Many Honda models use the same connectors in R/R. And there is even 8 wire versions of R/R. You can for sure see that this one separate green wire is for ground. It has "O-connector" for bolt .bikeserviceparts.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=577" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"> .bikeserviceparts.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=577 I believe some models do the grounding using the body of R/R and bolt. And some models do the grounding using that one green extra wire? Maybe)
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Post by jalat on Sept 4, 2011 21:29:40 GMT -6
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Post by jalat on Sept 4, 2011 15:08:59 GMT -6
 Run the red to battery for charging, black to the ignition and use white for the fan by just cutting the wire to the fuse box and routing it to the new R/R. In that regulator there is four inputs. 3 yellow and 1 green. What if one connects only those 3 yellow wire and not connect that green one at all? How would it work? And in stock 6 wire R/R there is one green output wire which is for ground. In that 7 wire R/R there is no green output wire for ground. Is it grounding from the body of R/R? In this 7 wire version that white output hot wire is extra I mean can this 7 wire R/R be used instead of 6 wire version without doing any modifications for stator? |
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Post by jalat on Sept 4, 2011 14:37:09 GMT -6
This is really confusing. Why they just don't use just one universal style wiring in all scooters It would be good for everyone I remember that spark problem of my friends scooter. It really did have 4 wires for cdi and mine has 5. But my friend bought it from a guy who bought it directly from china when he was there. And imported it to Finland with another stuff. So I can't be sure is that 4 wire version really an euro-version. And now my friend sold it to buy a motorcycle. And we tried to cross change cdi boxes between scooters and both worked fine in both scooters. JR you are doing good job with this forum. High five 0/\0 |
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Post by jalat on Sept 3, 2011 14:26:32 GMT -6
Hey JR. I noticed a little mistake in the third wiring diagram text behind your last post link. "Next is the 250T version which the fuse set up is like the Linhai version but this scooter is different in the fact is has no blocking diode and a headlight on/off switch. All lights will function just with the key on along with the cooling fan if the radiator is hot enough. Also this version has a side stand safety cut off switch and the scooter will not start with the stand down."In that third diagram there is headlight on/off switch. You may delete this post when you fixed that Oh.. and because I live in Finland and my Jonway yy250t is bought from here, I think this is Euro version. But in your wiring diagram page you write in that last (fourth) one that there is no headlight on/off switch. "Lastly is the Jonway YY250T Euro version of this scooter. It has a fuse box and no blocking diode however it does not have a on/off headlight switch. "Mine has separate fuse box. Also there is headlight on/off switch. Also headlights are working with battery and no blocking diode or relay. And there is kill switch in the right handle and also kill switch in the side stand. And there are five wires going into cdi-box. Does that make this the fifth version of Honda Reflex clone? |
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Post by jalat on Sept 3, 2011 7:39:47 GMT -6
Hmm... Euro version wiring diagram 4.bp.blogspot.com/-niEIcF9dJ_8/TgSoUuvocaI/AAAAAAAAAHM/32UTq0WkEhU/s1600/jonway-wiring-diagram.jpg6 wire R/R (manostat in the picture) - red wire is for battery charging. Also for constant hot wire to main switch (key) - green wire is for ground - black wire... isn't that for almost all the rest electric devices? Is your US version cfmoto clone engined scooter fan on when engine is off and you turn key to the on position? So that the fan can be run using with battery? Mine works like that. Of course engine have to hot when testing this. In that wiring diagram I'm not sure if that black wire from R/R is giving the power for all other electric devices (including fan) when engine is on. And if engine is off and key is turned on position then battery gives the power for all devices. That's how I read that diagram. Maybe I read it wrong? But anyway I also have this charging problem when I use two hid same time with fan. |
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Post by jalat on Sept 3, 2011 7:28:54 GMT -6
Very interesting theory. Could this finally fix the cfmoto charging issue?
But... for example in my jonway yy250t cfmoto clone engined scooter the enricher is given AC directly from one of the three yellow wire coming from stator. Somebody (I think it was Cruiser) told that enricher works with AC or DC. Both works with enricher. But how about cooling fan. It cannot work with AC. It need DC to turn correct way.
That is how my EURO version scooter wiring goes. In EURO version the lights can be on without engine running. Lights are connected to the battery. So that could not work in EURO version scooters.
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