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Post by dyoung1167 on Jan 12, 2015 5:55:44 GMT -6
nice 14.02v.
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Post by dyoung1167 on Jan 11, 2015 12:00:19 GMT -6
 thanks dmartin95 here is a pic of the new r/r. lighter for size ref. (i didn't have a banana haha). it is much bigger than expected, though mostly that size is heat sinc, which is a good thing as the reg r/r's (6-8 pole) are only just a touch bigger than the center peice alone and get very hot and i think a big reason they tend to go bad so this is great.  i just received it and will be installing it shortly. will post voltage readings later. |
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Post by dyoung1167 on Jan 3, 2015 11:50:16 GMT -6
your right about the color, it may change but pretty sure whatever color they use, if it is three phase they use the same color for the three phases. yours are orange, but all three are orange so it still pans out.
and there be a pic (your post) of a twelve pole stator (i mentioned on the other forum). damn i wish it were easy to find schematics of these things.
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Post by dyoung1167 on Jan 3, 2015 11:10:38 GMT -6
not 100% on this but i think the cdi should put out about 150-250v dc, the coil then ramps it up some more, around 10x's that. cdi's always put out dc, even if they are an ac fed version, and the dc versions are a good bit larger than the ac ones because they first have to invert the dc to ac for the capacitors (which hike the voltage some), then rectify it back to dc for the coil. the ac ones don't have to go through the first step so they are smaller.
i know it didn't help with your original problem but hopefully helped clear up a bit of your last post.
what was the short you found and fixed but now have no spark? in a post you mentioned ordering both the stock and the no rev versions. did you try both while getting the short? it may have fried both, but if only one did you try the other after clearing the short?
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Post by dyoung1167 on Jan 3, 2015 10:47:43 GMT -6
is it a dc or ac fed cdi?
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Post by dyoung1167 on Jan 2, 2015 10:12:59 GMT -6
i think you are right on the current idea. the older style without does the same thing but maybe the extra wire makes it more efficient, don't know but i don't believe the ones without overcharged either (not saying it's not needed if it's there, obviously it is) we shall see and i shall post. thanks
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Post by dyoung1167 on Jan 1, 2015 23:38:32 GMT -6
just like all other full wave rectifiers it has three wires colored the same(amazing) meaning exactly as the others do. i just wanted to know what the other wires did but for some reason nobody can actually tell me. this voltage sense thing baffles me. i'm a schooled electrician(thank you electricity 101 in high school and electricians "A" school US NAVY) and i KNOW that if the reg puts 14v to the battery, that same red wire that goes to the ignition switch will read 14v. i want to know how this thing magically knows the battery only has 11.5v and still needs charging.
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Post by dyoung1167 on Jan 1, 2015 10:06:57 GMT -6
for some reason i can't get my attachment button to do anything but the 5 wire is 3 yellows, one red and one green. i believe it's meant for an older honda 700cc something.
Ok, so while i understand what you are saying for the Acc wire but....when does this happen? are they constantly alternating, meaning does it stop charging then read voltage - then charge but not check for a certain time. whats confusing is that while charging, the Acc wire is going to read the charging voltage so it would always think it has a good charge
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Headlights
by: dyoung1167 - Dec 31, 2014 16:52:38 GMT -6
Post by dyoung1167 on Dec 31, 2014 16:52:38 GMT -6
if the headlights on this scoot (i didn't try to google a pic) are projector type, being small with very round hard to see into lenses (verses car style where you can look in at the bulb and the outer lense can match the body shape) it is meant to be one at a time. they do not have dual elements for high/low. they are individually "aimed". one for high and one for low.
as for the lights running even with the high/low switch removed i'm not sure. typically the sw. is fed hot then routed to the lights (even if the lights are fed hot and the grounds are switched as i have seen in some automotive circuits), so it would be difficult for a short between all 3 wires at once causing the sw. to be bypassed.
uuuummm, trying to think of something else but the mind is drawing a blank...
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Post by dyoung1167 on Dec 31, 2014 14:28:38 GMT -6
great post. quick question, is there any difference between the two hot wires? one to the batt. and one to the key sw.? as in, does it realy matter which is which? and what of five wire regulators? only one hot, so would that go to batt. or key and is that the switched (non hot side) or unswitched side?
sorry that became 3 but no need to go into too much detail, i do have a clue but a regulator man i'm not.
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Post by dyoung1167 on Dec 31, 2014 12:54:55 GMT -6
more than likely the r/r, also if the flywheel was slipping it pretty much wouldn't run at all due to timing issues. if it slipped just a bit and still ran then you would still get the magnets passing the coils and electrical generation because the coils simply dont care where the magnets are as long as they pass over them and whence it would still charge.
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Post by dyoung1167 on Dec 31, 2014 12:21:27 GMT -6
upgrading to an 11 pole stator and i find many "6 pin regulator for 11 pole upgrades" but can only find references to 7 pin regulators. the only thing i can find is that one wire is simply for the choke (on the 7 pin r/r's). my question is, if i run my choke on dc (via my key switched power) instead of the original ac side of the harness can i use the 6 pin r/r? it is a bit cheaper and the only one i can find on amazon and i'm trying to place a single order instead of multiple which adds shipping costs too.
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