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Post by fastlane2k1 on Mar 15, 2015 7:45:16 GMT -6
Well I thiink I will just have to wait a couple weeks then and get the LV, what is the difference between the zx and the zx-r? Also an update I have successfully done the headlight mod thanks to the awesome people here and sharing their wisdom  Also have installed silverstar zxe headlight bulbs, its daylight now but at idle you can see a difference in the intensity compared to cruising rpms. They are the same wattage as the oem 55/60 I am just hoping there wont be a current drain issue if I am scooting around town.
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Post by fastlane2k1 on Mar 14, 2015 11:42:37 GMT -6
Good to know, I will just purchase upgrades as I can afford them and just have all the pieces in place for when I do the BBK. As far as the pipe goes I know leovince is great but they are pricey, is there a nice alternative with the expansion chamber design that I could get cheaper, I just had to drop $850 for the scoot and then a new battery so the wife is probably getting tired of scooter money  I did order a NGK BPR8HIX iridium plug, that should be okay on a stock tune right?
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Post by fastlane2k1 on Mar 13, 2015 20:58:22 GMT -6
If you could recommend some reliable brands that wont break my tiny piggy bank. Also would you suggest I tune my variator or just go ahead and buy a over drive as I will be doing plenty of mods just going to be a slow process. After thought... the guy I bought the scoot from is using yamalube, what brand do you prefer for performance and engine wear?
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Post by fastlane2k1 on Mar 11, 2015 16:20:04 GMT -6
I have just picked up a zuma 50 and would like some insight on the best order in which to upgrade parts for speed increases. What I was thinking was to start with a new CDI but my expertise is in automobiles not 2t engines, many thanks and please keep in mind that I am financially challenged 
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Post by fastlane2k1 on Feb 15, 2015 14:49:19 GMT -6
Does anyone have any knowledge of these scoots and whether or not to buy one?
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Post by fastlane2k1 on Jun 24, 2014 14:55:23 GMT -6
Well here is an update. I soldered the broken connection on the ignition and still have nothing for spark. However I did notice that I also have no headlight, taillight or blinkers, at this point I am inclined to believe it is the rectifier that is causing the issue. What is your opinion?
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Post by fastlane2k1 on Jun 17, 2014 14:25:12 GMT -6
 After examining the diagram you posted I noticed it showed 6 wires terminating on the ignition, well I pulled mine and saw it only had 4 yet there were solder points for 6 and it looked as though 2 of the solder points had broken loose. It appears to me that if I resolder the bl/w connection and the green connection then I should have my problem solved. Do you think my understanding is sound?  |
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Post by fastlane2k1 on Jun 15, 2014 10:48:03 GMT -6
 This is the stator that this scoot has, note it has an A/C and a D/C coil. I believe it is A/C output to the coil D/C output for charging the battery, or that is how I understand it. |
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Post by fastlane2k1 on Jun 15, 2014 10:34:20 GMT -6
That wire ties to a 4 pin connector that connects the stator to the main harness. I seperated the harness and that wire also ties in to a kickstand kill switch that is not present on the scoot. The best I can tell that same bl/w wire runs from there to the voltage regulator and then back to the ignition switch.
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Post by fastlane2k1 on Jun 14, 2014 23:30:35 GMT -6
Okay I just wanted to make sure I was unsderstanding the gif correctly, yes I put 12v to the coil but had the bl/w wire disconnected when doing so with no results. There is a direct frame ground and a green ground wire that goes to the negative post of the battetry.
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Post by fastlane2k1 on Jun 14, 2014 9:53:55 GMT -6
Please note the pic above...there is only one wire connection aside from the plug wire, the coil grounds directly to the frame.
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Post by fastlane2k1 on Jun 14, 2014 9:45:50 GMT -6
Okay I put a meter on the bl/w wire at the coil with the switch on and jumper cables hooked up and did not have 12v. I did however have a solid ground when I did a continuity test. Tried disconnecting the bl/w wire and apllying 12v but it would not try to fire. What next my fearless leader?  |
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Post by fastlane2k1 on Jun 1, 2014 16:06:29 GMT -6
Okay sounds ike a plan, its funny because I had narrowed it down to something in the ignition through my own limited knowledge. With your expertise now I think I fully undrstand how it works.
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Post by fastlane2k1 on Jun 1, 2014 15:00:12 GMT -6
 This is the coil that is on my scoot, as you can see it only has one connector. Iam not understanding how it can receive 12V and a pulse signal from the stator. Also what would be the easiest way to circumvent the ignition to test your theory...a 12V jumper possibly? |
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Post by fastlane2k1 on Jun 1, 2014 5:14:44 GMT -6
It is positively a D1E41QMB 2t with the chain drive, not sure why it was stamped otherwise. Iam still learning about scoots but I am very knowledgeable about mechanics, this is a non cdi ignition. I replaced the stator and coil with oem replacements. When I replaced the stator it fired off immediately and ran good for test ride around the block, the original coil tested weak but inside specs. I decided to purchase a new one just so the Iignition system would be new. One thing I do not know is how ignition is broken from the key as there is no kill switch on this model. I will post somepics for further reference Iin a bit.
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