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Post by 1flipflop on Apr 5, 2015 19:38:05 GMT -6
![]() my reflection of 2014 was to advance into 2015 with a 50cc 4t scooter that I have since 2013 (non running and recovered from a police auction) till now, (long wait)  and try to make it running no matter what, And engine is running great now as is  . BIG Thanks to this website and the members posting issues that I can study from also, but mostly Admin JR helped me a lot, sent this pic to show basically phase1, New carburetor did cure the full throttle bog by the way, someone grinded the accelerator lever and had no accelerator pump lever to operate the pump, did adjust valves and change oil, new NGK, cleaned gas tank and new fuel lines as well, had gas that was from 2013 and it still sputtered to life when I initially testing for spark unbelievable the joy to hear it actually start and run with nothing previous mentioned repaired other than spark. After my PDI of this scoot was able to speedometer speed of 26mph only ran half the block cause no tag yet, on second run only capable of 22mph ahh such is life pretty sure the drive belt and or the CVT have seen better days anyway Thanks again I hope you enjoy the pics
 
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Post by 1flipflop on Mar 26, 2015 19:03:04 GMT -6
Just wanted to ask since I don't have bystarter hooked up would that not let the engine to make power$ The engine bogs when I twist the throttle but stays running. Also is it good idea to run battery negative wire to engine?? including the one to frame , meaning 1 wire to frame and a separate wire to engine. I know there is supposed to be another negative wire that connects to battery but not sure where supposed to connect that one. Yes all grounds need to be tight and making good connection. Yes place a cable from battery to frame (black) and from frame to the engine,<<<Has a ground from frame to starter housing since it has no ground wire coming out of the stator the engine MUST be grounded to insure charging voltage. I am hoping the ground from frame to starter housing will do this ground will work on charging system for sure,..
Bogging equal dirty clogged carb, since it had old gas need to take it off and clean it up,<< I did remove carb and was spotless all jets removed and inspected also adjusted valves have same full throttle bog am wondering if its that diaphragm on top of carburetor it is soft and no holes but looks a little deformed and if I put my finger in intake while running I push that piston up and it seem to create power so I maybe need replace the diaphragm good videos in the video tech section and then you'll need to adjust the F/M screw.<<<no mixture screw on this carb Drain the oil and go ahead and adjust the valves,<<< set the valves according to service manual and going to readjust them tighter or less clearance is tapping sound now.again good videos in the video tech section and also the main tech section.
Need to get a key switch.
JR
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Post by 1flipflop on Mar 25, 2015 11:00:05 GMT -6
If it came from the floor area by the battery then yes the red is fused and goes to the key switch <<yes and factory splice to R/R as well, the black will be hot from the key switch with the key on and if this is a DC type CDI then it supplies voltage to the CDI.<< <<<that is the what clued me in totally I was thinking to ground before I did try though,, I don't want try guess what I need to do and,, I came back in and read this thread from beginning again and ran across this reply it supplies voltage to the CDI,, I practically ran back out untaping harness from battery area leading to handlebars and saw the red feed wire to R/R was factory spliced and the splice goes to key switch which is missing that connector but anyhow very much appreciate you and your website and will follow your recommendation change oil and valve adjust Let me look at a diagram. <<< Me too == now I see the black to CDI in diagram, you sir have help me a lot to understand the circuitry sometimes I swear I got to be 1 the luckiest people on this planet |
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Post by 1flipflop on Mar 24, 2015 14:58:11 GMT -6
First time posting a VID
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Post by 1flipflop on Mar 24, 2015 14:28:35 GMT -6
Just wanted to ask since I don't have bystarter hooked up would that not let the engine to make power$ The engine bogs when I twist the throttle but stays running. Also is it good idea to run battery negative wire to engine?? including the one to frame , meaning 1 wire to frame and a separate wire to engine. I know there is supposed to be another negative wire that connects to battery but not sure where supposed to connect that one.
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Post by 1flipflop on Mar 24, 2015 14:18:32 GMT -6
The GREENs are grounds, CHECK The RED is your POWER wire 12volts coming from the battery which should have a fuse on it CHECK and BIG Thank You for you reply..that red wire goes up to that R/R I untaped the harness from battery to handlebars to see whats going on and the red was factory spliced to go to R/R and key switch so I slipped the keyswitch end into connector to the BK/R wire coming from the CDI to give it power and was giving power to the CDI plug I disconnected battery NEG- plug in CDI hit the starter and it belched to life with 1.7 yr. old gas in it. I commenced to remove and clean gas tank of sour gas also drain the carb bowl and replaced with new NGK sparkplug+93octane and it immediately started right up. For now to turn it off i just pull the RED power wire from the connector to cut the juice and to CDI....near the battery. the BLACK is what feeds EVERYTHING ELSE when you turn the KEY ON The BLACK&WHITE is the KILL WIRE it grounds out the CDI to kill the motor when you turn the KEY OFF. Alleyoop  And Thank you Alleyoop for the insight, Hopefully I will get to register this scoot soon too. |
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Post by 1flipflop on Mar 24, 2015 14:12:02 GMT -6
The blue yellow goes to the CDI and is the pulse coil =check, tells the CDI when to fire. The white and yellow wires go to the R/R and deals with the charging/light circuit, have nothing to do with the engine running at all. check and Thank You I have traced each wire to make sure they connect proper designationSo, is this all the wires coming out of the engine at the stator area? =Yes 3 wires If so then again it's a DC system, do you have any other wires coming out of the stator area? NoAlso did you turn the key on and see if the black wire had any voltage on it? No the key switch was vandalized and frozen would not turn, connected the R/wire is factory spliced before connecting one end is for key switch the other goes to R/R the one for key switch had no connector was twisted together with a black wire and I slipped into the connector end for the CDI power feed BK/R wire and bingo, Spark was now available, turned over the engine with 1.7 yr. old gas and choked it with hand over inlet and it sputtered to life,  when I knew it would start now I removed gas tank and sour gas and replaced w. new NGK sparkplug and 93octane it started right up and idles nice and slow too.  Lastly I don't see a black larger wire negative battery cable from the battery to the frame, hooked up? Very good eye you have there now that you mention that the battery NEG. wire is green and it runs to frame maybe need one ground to engine from battery NEG.- is supposed to have 2 green battery wires there at battery so I may connect another wire to the engine?? Thank you very much for that as the scooter starts and runs, perfect idle but when I gas it wanting to bog out now when warmed up starts very good though I don't have power to the bystarter yet maybe that would be where im getting bog. So good news today....Next going to see about getting title and registration, if I can get it registered then will continue to make the scoot more street worthy JR |
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Post by 1flipflop on Mar 23, 2015 16:52:38 GMT -6
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Post by 1flipflop on Mar 23, 2015 14:36:20 GMT -6
1flipflop OK from your PM there should not be a toggle switch under the seat, needs to go:<<< yes i have found switch tampered with and broken malicious so i looped it Black/red = AC feed from stator to CDI, this is a AC system<< this wire runs to the brake switches and the left switch is broken inoperatable. I have only 3 wires from stator but they arent attatch to stator they are attatched to pick up 1 is white 1 is yellow both to the reg/rec im assume and the 3rd is blue/yellow striped so i was just about attempt to electric start it and was going to connect all wires to CDI except the black/red and see what happened atleast im trying not to fowl or sizzle anything so i havent attempted. been write noted and study how each wire on scoot connect and found the bulb holder on front blinkers were maybe messed with too the ground for the bulb each side was lay flat against the pos terminal so i lifted the ground tabup and they work now. in my diagram SYM symply50 ignition diagram has a black wire that supposed to be from stator but i dont see any wire. I going to see what i can see now.. i pm you in a little bit.. Blue/yellow = Stator pickup coil to tell CDI when to fire<< this wire leads to that on switch under seat it is fixed ![]() ![]() from pickup to stator Green = ground<<< all good there Black/yellow = feed to the spark plug coil.<<<all good there If stator is good it should have spark to run. The black wire needs to be tested to see if it has voltage with the key on, it goes to accessories as I mentioned earlier |
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Post by 1flipflop on Mar 22, 2015 10:52:11 GMT -6
Hi, yes those wires are in floor panel for battery area the cdi wires I pulled to the left so they were out of view but the cdi fits in floor panel area w. battery. So your saying the black connects to battery ?? the 2 reds I believe are for the fuse im looking at diagram right now as well and it does show the 2red come from start magnet then a fuse then onto the key switch so I got that. and the black im not sure , diagram show the W/G is come from fuel meter on dash then connects to dimmer switch and front brake switch then continues to connect to black wire on key or main switch and black wire on cdi this make sense to you?? Now after further investigations my CDI has a black/redstripe wire, diagram shows black.
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Post by 1flipflop on Mar 22, 2015 9:26:16 GMT -6
Ok, I have battery now. Ran into some life changing obstacles but still would love some input how to test this scoot to start at switch not kicker, then to test for spark, the rest I can hopefully handle myself....  The pic of key switch wires with connector disconnected and nothing to connect it to. Don't see a male connector to connect to female key switch connector  Battery connection wires I know red pos. green neg. but guessing the 2 red wires for a fuse then ther is a white w. green strip and a black that im not sure what there |
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Post by 1flipflop on Jun 25, 2014 23:13:10 GMT -6
Edited with paint able to resize and add text its not pretty scoot but someday it will be. Was hoping you would add to the scroller. This picture is actual police auction pic edited by me with paint that come with windows PC's Have since removed the body panels to gain access to wiring, eventually a complete dismantle, cleaning and renew of anything need replaced but want try diagnose wiring troubles to help me learn to fix electrical problems first, and to have it running before I strip it down.. Attachments:
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Post by 1flipflop on Jun 25, 2014 22:19:02 GMT -6
That is a sweet ride,  Attachments:
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Post by 1flipflop on Jun 25, 2014 17:29:19 GMT -6
  Thank you for the reply, I happened across the wiring diagram for the SYM simply50 scooters are the same except the diagram shows only 4 wires from main key switch= all but the black w. white stripe so BIG for that reply. Have to wait for battery wasn't able to afford today, next Wed. im shooting for sure the battery and until then hope to study the wiring a bit more..sent a pic of battery wires and another of key switch wires
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Post by 1flipflop on Jun 25, 2014 12:27:34 GMT -6
hard to see was hacked or hot wired a red and black wire twisted together (no connector, removed) from wiring harness going up to connector for key switch, from key switch wiring (connector is disconnected) has a connector w. 5 wires= 2green, 1 red, 1black, and a black w.white stripe, the twisted red and solid black wire are near this area with no connector just twisted together this is from the way I received it.. just got a camera now and later today going to get a battery new for scoot have looked at the wiring for the battery is hacked up a little bit too, may be able to figure that on my own just this wiring I mention at key switch wanted to know if I could leave the black and red wire twisted together and try to get the engine to turn by the start button as the kicker is needing installed at the moment and want it to start with the start button function for testing spark purposes Attachments:
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