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Post by linton1982 on Mar 28, 2015 3:15:01 GMT -6
Hi JR,
I have a just turned 2 yr old Chinese 300cc Yamaha/Linhai copy scooter and today I replaced my rear brake pads with oem ones from my dealer. I installed shim back on like original. For some reason, the inner brake pad has a distance gap of about 2mm. The piston pad on the other hand is hard up against disk, making the rear wheel ever so tight to turn ( I know some resistance happens when changing, have done a couple of times ).
The brake still is sloppy and pulls into handle bars with ease but only piston pad is doing all the work but can still turn wheel with a little force ( no engine power ).
I decided to change brake pads as I was finding the rear brakes were not even pulling me up anymore. When I removed caliper then pads, I noticed that one piston was doing most or all the work rather then the 2. I tried bleeding calipers but did not fix single piston failure or slack piston.
I use c-clamp to push both pistons back flush ( Calipers where cleaned with brake cleaner prior to this operation ). Piston working a little better but for some reason, the inner brake pad has a distance gap of about 2mm, this was not like this before changing.
I'm at cross road at moment with only solution is to insert a thicker homemade metal shim.
Have anyone ever come across this scenario before and what was your solution.
Linton
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Post by linton1982 on Dec 21, 2013 5:36:03 GMT -6
Hi, I have a CDI that I just cant get my head around. I have a Chinese 300cc EFI scooter ( Linhai design). It keeps stalling on me from time to time and have noticed it when engine is warm, I seem to think that this CDI ( Factory Fitted ) is too small for engine. Now the scooter runs off a ECU, that similar to a TCI and has a Small 6 Pin CDI box. I believe it to be of DC. It has a code on it QJ157FMI ( This was Factory installed CDI ) My engine is 173MN I see that this CDI are common for scooters upto 150cc but nothing past that. Can some one help me. I think it can't handle the pulse ( energy ) going to the coil and either over heating or just cant produce enough for coil. My EFI scooter history It idles at 1500RPM Idles for a while and then just shuts off with no acceleration ( this has happen since new ) When coming down from high speed acceleration, when de accelerating approaching the 2000RPM point, it sometimes just stalls/shuts down from time to time, not all the time but sometime it wants to stall but engine just keeps kicking over. I've replaced all parts from TPS, fuel pump, fuel filter, injector, throttle body, diaphragm and fuel lines but no change. EFI company have done remote tune over the internet on my bike and say runs ok but don't understand why it's stalling. They can't figure it out . I have converted to Carb because of this problem but I have been thinking about it as my EFI only used about 3.5ltrs per 100klm. My carb is using avg 4.7 ltrs per 100klm. I cant see any Diodes apart from the R/R so I might insert a IN5408MIC on the pulse wire going from the ECU to the CDI. But I was also thinking that the CDI the scooter manufacturer supplied with scoot is too small. Do I need a larger CDI then supplied, to suit at least 250cc and above engine and/or a CDI with heat-sink. Any thoughts Please  |
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No spark
by: linton1982 - Dec 16, 2013 0:44:35 GMT -6
Post by linton1982 on Dec 16, 2013 0:44:35 GMT -6
I would think the people that sent you a new harness/CDI set up would know that it would work or not? Even if the magnets were not correct it would still spark if everything else is right, question is would it spark at the right time? Remember with a CDI system it fires on both strokes the exhaust and intake even though only one is needed. JR Jr/Alley. I found my problem and it had nothing to do with CDI. You will giggle at this but here. I unscrew the ignition coil cap to replace it and guess what, the screw was just a poof tee-nth off from touching the wires, I mean a poof tee-nth. I put new one on anyways and she fired up almost instantly. Of all the scenarios we looked at, I totally did not think to check the cap end. What a rare find. Thanks all the same in solving spark issue. Well done team... Linton |
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No spark
by: linton1982 - Dec 8, 2013 0:25:10 GMT -6
Post by linton1982 on Dec 8, 2013 0:25:10 GMT -6
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No spark
by: linton1982 - Dec 7, 2013 23:28:18 GMT -6
Post by linton1982 on Dec 7, 2013 23:28:18 GMT -6
JR, Thank you for your help. I don't think it will be bad wire connections as I think there pretty good. I will however, order a new Ign coil and CDI from link you sent me and install one at a time so we find fault of no spark. I have only one wire connecting rev signal tacho (yellow/black ) / dash assembly RPM. I'll post success once parts are installed.. I should have asked you to help solve my EFI problem before I changed. Maybe later date perhaps!!?? Does the flywheel magnet on the outside of the housing effect different sparking times in the CDI for 173MN engines. What is the standard length of stator housing flywheel pickup? Mine is about 28mm Are these length calculated into the CDI programing? Or it doesn't matter about length!? I think the YP250 is about 60mm. Are all chinese scooter flywheels like my length, standard in Chinese model 250-300cc scooters? Will any Chinese 8 pin CDI with identical wiring sequence work on mine?(Just like the link you sent me from Fancy Scooters )   Supposedly, this is what is in my scooter. I'm just trying to think outside the box? |
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No spark
by: linton1982 - Dec 7, 2013 18:41:36 GMT -6
Post by linton1982 on Dec 7, 2013 18:41:36 GMT -6
JR, Thank you for your help. I don't think it will be bad wire connections as I think there pretty good. I will however, order a new Ign coil and CDI from link you sent me and install one at a time so we find fault of no spark.  I have only one wire connecting rev signal tacho (yellow/black ) / dash assembly RPM. I'll post success once parts are installed.. I should have asked you to help solve my EFI problem before I changed. Maybe later date perhaps!!?? |
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No spark
by: linton1982 - Dec 6, 2013 22:28:36 GMT -6
Post by linton1982 on Dec 6, 2013 22:28:36 GMT -6
TO check the wiring orient your CDI the same way and see if the wires are in the same place. Alleyoop   Alleyoop, THEN THE ONE IN YOUR HAND MUST BE WIRED UP SAME AS MINE THEN? My CDI!red/white is Link magneto trigger negative blue/white is :Link magneto trigger signal lines green/white :Links to negative line of total power black is :Link positive line of total power yellow /black is Link to the ignition coil Your CDI!black/white is :Link magneto trigger negative blue/white is :Link magneto trigger signal lines black :Links to negative line of total power purple is :Link positive line of total power orange is :Link to the ignition coil |
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No spark
by: linton1982 - Dec 6, 2013 22:17:13 GMT -6
Post by linton1982 on Dec 6, 2013 22:17:13 GMT -6
MY SCOOTER MAKER COMPANY HAVE TOLD ME THAT THIS IS THE WIRE SEQUENCE.
red/white is Link magneto trigger negative
blue/white is :Link magneto trigger signal lines
green/white :Links to negative line of total power
black is :Link positive line of total power
yellow /black is Link to the ignition coil
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No spark
by: linton1982 - Dec 6, 2013 22:16:31 GMT -6
Post by linton1982 on Dec 6, 2013 22:16:31 GMT -6
Here is your CDI:
.ebay.com/itm/Original-Digital-Igniter-CDI-Linhai-Aeolus-Mainstree-260-300-Scooter-ATV-CUV-Par-/231103114267?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35ced1ac1b&vxp=mtr" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"> .ebay.com/itm/Original-Digital-Igniter-CDI-Linhai-Aeolus-Mainstree-260-300-Scooter-ATV-CUV-Par-/231103114267?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35ced1ac1b&vxp=mtr
Next question? The old set up had a relay mixed in with the starting circuit which sent voltage to the TCI and was part of the kill switch circuit. Did you eliminate this too?
Looking at your photo I can do a educated guess on each wire since you changed out the system. We now know black is ground.
The reason we must know the wires is to make sure all is well before we say you have a lemon CDI? Could be the coil? Did you get a new coil too? YES Scooter was running and you just got rid of EFI and such right?YES
So let's do a little tracing.
Black = ground Black/yellow = should go to coil
Now we have 3 wires left so let's do a test to find the engine kill wire. I'm going to say green/white but here's the test. Unplug the CDI harness plug from the CDI.
Put multi-meter to ohms setting and set it at the 200k setting. Put black lead on negative battery post. With key switch on and engine kill switch in run position put red meter lead on green/white wire. GREEN/WHITE=26.5 - BLUE/WHITE=0 KILL SWITCH IN OFF POSITION 29.5
If this is the engine kill wire you should get no resistance/continuity nothing. Then with the leads still hooked up put the engine kill switch in the off position, you should get full ohms resistance/continuity or if your meter has the audible tone function full tone as well as a reading.BLUE/WHITE= 28.6
Now put the engine kill switch back in the engine run position and turn the key switch off, if this is the engine kill wire and all is hooked up correctly you will again get full resistance/continuity and/or tone.ONLY ON BLUE/WHITE
If this doesn't pan out we need to do the same test on the blue/white or red/white wire. Once we know the engine kill wire then we only need to establish we have 12Vdc to the CDI.
In fact we can do that first if you like? Set meter to 20Vdc + and put black lead on negative post of battery, turn key on and touch other lead to each wire, blue/white first, when you get a reading of 12Vdc+ then we will know that wire and eliminate it from our test.
BLACK LEAD TO NEGATIVE BATTERY, IGNITOIN ON. BLACK=12.43. GREEN/WHITE=0.03. YELLOW/BLACK=12.05. BLUE/WHITE=0.00. RED/WHITE=0.00 BLACK LEAD NEGATIVE BATTERY, IGNITION ON, KILL SWITCH OFF. BLACK=12.5 .GREEN/WHITE=0.03. YELLOW/BLACK=12.04. BLUE/WHITE= 0.03. RED/WHITE= 0.03 RED LEAD TO POSITIVE BATTERY, IGNITION ON. BLACK= 0.10. GREEN/WHITE= 12.5. YELLOW/BLACK= 0.0. BLUE/WHITE= 0.12. RED/WHITE= 0.12 RED LEAD TO POSITIVE BATTERY, IGNITION ON, KILL SWITCH OFF. BLACK=0.10. GREEN/WHITE= 12.5. YELLOW/BLACK= 0.00. BLUE/WHITE= 12.5. RED/WHITE= 12.5.
Last wire to find is pulse feed wire from stator to CDI, I'm going to say red/white. Set meter to 200Vac and put black lead on negative post of battery. Put other lead on red/white wire and turn engine over and take reading, it will be low from 0.50 to 0.15 Vac.TURNING OVER ENGINE AT 5 SEC INTERVALS. RED/WHITE READING= 1.9. BLUE/WHITE= 0.5
There's also the possibility of this system being a system that when killing the engine just cuts power to the CDI?
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No spark
by: linton1982 - Dec 6, 2013 15:40:56 GMT -6
Post by linton1982 on Dec 6, 2013 15:40:56 GMT -6
Alleyoop,
What is this wire sequence and is it AC or DC?
What scoot is it out of?
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No spark
by: linton1982 - Dec 6, 2013 15:39:00 GMT -6
Post by linton1982 on Dec 6, 2013 15:39:00 GMT -6
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by: linton1982 - Dec 6, 2013 6:03:45 GMT -6
Post by linton1982 on Dec 6, 2013 6:03:45 GMT -6
   JR, Negative. When I changed out the EFI system, I also removed the stock ECU. So there is new wiring loom and a new CDI. Factory have told me that I have CDI and that it is DC. all the wiring you see in photo and the complete wiring loom was sent to me by the factory, it was just a simple connect harness into CDI. There might just be slight possible chance that I of all my luck, received the lemon CDI. My ECU was a completely different wiring system, about 20+ more wires compared to the pictures you see above. ![]() ![]() |
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by: linton1982 - Dec 6, 2013 1:48:21 GMT -6
Post by linton1982 on Dec 6, 2013 1:48:21 GMT -6
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by: linton1982 - Dec 5, 2013 17:03:56 GMT -6
Post by linton1982 on Dec 5, 2013 17:03:56 GMT -6
JR.
Would I need to get special CDI made up for my wire sequence or can buy or plug in any any Chinese CDI suited for Chinese version linhai 250 - 300cc designed engines?
Assuming to my CDI is in fact DC, which I think it is!?
Any suggestions!?
8 pin CDI.
I have 1 x black wire on bottom CDI
On the top I have......
Red/white top left, Blue/white to the right of that, Green/white next to it and yellow/black.
red/white seems to be stator negative
blue/white seems to be stator positive
green white seems to be linking brake leaver
yellow/black ignition coil feed. ( 12v power present with ignition on, engine not running )
Black seems to be 12v with ignition on
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by: linton1982 - Nov 29, 2013 18:37:29 GMT -6
Post by linton1982 on Nov 29, 2013 18:37:29 GMT -6
I understand you technique of testing to see if CDI is AC or DC. But I have a CDI that has pins 4 above 4 = 8 pin CDI.
I have 1 x black wire on bottom CDI
On the top I have......
Red/white top left, Blue/white to the right of that, Green/white next to it and yellow/black..
red/white seems to be stator negative
blue/white seems to be stator positive
green white seems to be linking brake leaver
yellow/black ignition coil feed. ( 12v power present with ignition on, engine not running )
Black seems to be 12v with ignition on ( engine not running )
Note: 12v tested using tester light.
It is Chinese version on yp250/Linhai. Make is Riya Adonis RY300T.
Is my version of CDI AC or DC?
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