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Post by 1pkryan on Dec 23, 2014 14:03:00 GMT -6
Hi JR, been a while.
Nope didn't touch the float, the height of it does seem out though. Others i've seen have a kind of spring-like touch to them. It's not touching the side, when i take out the carburetor and turn it upside down, that is when the float is touching the inside. Don't seem to be no overflow issues as far as i can see.
Did notice what looked like petrol but could be oil around the inside of the stator/magneto which might be an air-leak at the crank seal. Would this cause the erratic behaviour?
Might also need to find out correct screw adjustments for idle and air/fuel jets.
Thanks for the reply.
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Post by 1pkryan on Dec 23, 2014 10:06:42 GMT -6
bump.
Okay i have it running now some-what, but it seems to be stuck on full throttle then it goes normal then goes full revs again... Needle don't seem stuck, tried adjusting idle screw while bike is running, no joy. Was forced to choke it with my hand...
Anything i am missing?
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Post by 1pkryan on Dec 20, 2014 11:41:02 GMT -6
Okay, so my previous thread was about this bike with wiring / spark problems... I finally got hold of a stator and wired up the ignition so i can use the black-box, and i get a blue(ish) spark.
Problem now is:
I put a tiny amount of petrol down the head, on the odd occasion it tries to fire up with a sort of pop pop pop. Thought it would of fired up and ran at least until the petrol had evaporated. Though i could be wrong about this.
Thought i would try and run it the "normal" way, filled tank up and another problem was found. Vacuum system don't seem to open the diaphragm and fill carburetor with fuel. So i took all the carburetor apart cleaned it, but it didn't make a difference. While taking it apart i noticed the float was touching the inside of the carburetor, on previous bikes i'm sure it didn't touch nothing, would this cause a problem at all?
Note:
But if i suck on the vacuum pipe going into the inlet it does fill the carburetor. So i proceeded to kick the bike over as the carburetor now had fuel in it, but still no start. Where the carburetor fits to the inlet the inlet is bone dry.
Only thing i can really think of is something to do with the automatic choke, so really hard / impossible to start. Not sure on the problem with vacuum system not filling carb thought maybe compression, but if i put thumb over spark plug hole it blows it off.
Thanks. =)
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Post by 1pkryan on Sept 6, 2014 21:09:49 GMT -6
Did you ever fix the problem? Sorry for the late reply ( Better late than never  ) Unfortunately i can't get hold of a stator for further testing. Thinking of having ago at repairing it, read up some where about it, not sure if it's more hassle than its worth though. |
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Post by 1pkryan on Nov 17, 2013 18:27:12 GMT -6
Ahh right thanks, it has to be stator that is the problem as we pretty much eliminated every thing else. When i eventually get hold of one i will update this thread with the verdict. Thanks.
Sorry to waste your time.
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Post by 1pkryan on Nov 17, 2013 11:52:16 GMT -6
What a non-cracked 1 looks like:  What a cracked 1 looks like:  There is a total of 4 magnetic fields, 3 seem okay 1 cracked right down the center. Thanks. |
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Post by 1pkryan on Nov 16, 2013 6:50:37 GMT -6
bump
Because of edit.
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Post by 1pkryan on Nov 15, 2013 12:23:32 GMT -6
I can only see 1 magneto on ebay for £70+ lol.... Won't be paying that. Yea looks like i'm just going to have to wait it out until i find another and combine the 2 like you say. There is 2 Honda SGX 50's spares or repairs on ebay but location is just not right unfortunately.  Thanks for all your help anyway, appreciate it. If anything changes i will let you know. EDIT: When i took of the magneto. 1 of the magnetic fields have a crack right down the center of it. Could this crack be a reason for no spark as well? |
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Post by 1pkryan on Nov 15, 2013 0:48:36 GMT -6
Tried other R/R no difference. Nothing from white wire.
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Post by 1pkryan on Nov 14, 2013 11:58:40 GMT -6
Sorry for the late reply just got back from work, and my R/R has arrived kinda cautious to try it out in case wrong wire up can blow it, is this possible? Yeah red is fine, all tests i did ended with it being 0.00. Sorry if i wasn't clear with that. Exactly, if i can get a spark and engine runs i'm going to wait it out for a complete Honda SGX 50 Sky running or not for £100 or less then fix her back up. That is the plan anyway. Buying every part i need is overkill and will cost more than a complete running bike as you probably know.  I will get the answers to your other questions soon as, got a few things to sort. Will edit this in the next few hours. Thanks. |
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Post by 1pkryan on Nov 14, 2013 0:27:02 GMT -6
Red is just the battery wire i think. All wires have been cut from handlebars only wires that are there is coming from where the horn should be, this has been replaced with that 2 strip wire, which 1 end was on green the other on B/W not sure if this was wired up to Starter Relay ect though. The left handlebar don't look like the OEM part to be honest. Errm, think it should be fine without a battery, someone on ebay was selling 1 said electric start don't work because i have no battery and the bike is for sale without 1, but the kick start works fine. Tests came back with no reading from Ground to Yellow and Ground to White. Also, the auto-choke has a yellow wire and a green with a black stripe wire. On the Magneto/Flywheel, white wire is attached to the flywheel, green with black stripe goes to the sensor. Don't know if this is helpful at all. Thanks. |
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Post by 1pkryan on Nov 13, 2013 15:33:16 GMT -6
All tests come back 0.00.
Green is ground.
B/W is engine kill wire.
Will checkout what to do next when you reply. Thanks again.
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Post by 1pkryan on Nov 13, 2013 0:44:45 GMT -6
Thanks for the explanation on multi-meter.
Negative to Black/White stays on 1. Also R/R don't have Black/White its just a White wire. CDI has the Black/White wire
I currently don't have a battery or one connected to the bike, so don't think i can test voltage from red?
Tested fuse 00.0 so that is fine.
Thanks.
EDIT:
If the original wiring setup was correct or we get it correct and the regulator i got from ebay don't work. Could it be the Magneto/Flywheel?
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Post by 1pkryan on Nov 12, 2013 1:57:08 GMT -6
Thank you, haha. Kinda of brought it as it was buy-now so kinda have to pay for it, don't want to mess no one around... I got it cheap though so i don't mind. You seem to be around 5 hours in front of me. It's 07:45am right now. Gets dark same time as you  Lol i brought my R/R from him:  From the .co.uk side though, same price though as that 1 up there but better condition by the looks of it. Didn't think to check on there as well. It's actually around 8.5 hours away, glad its getting delivered hehe. My CDI:  I got for £8 as well, was a buy it now for £4 and £4 postage, must of been a mistake they were selling other bits off bikes well dearer They explain in the description they came from running bikes, but you only have peoples word on that. They seem to have good reputation on there so hopefully they telling the truth. Right down to business Bike Details: - Year ~ 2000 - Model ~ SGX50Y Sky EDIT: ------------------ Not sure if you wanted me to separate joined wires or separate the wiring from the frame, if these are no good let me know, i'll get some more. Also did you want pictures of anything else, or just the ignition wiring? Ignition Barrel:  Ignition Barrel Wires(Red, Green, Black, Black/White):  Left Handle Bar & Wires Ignore The Brown, That Goes Into Black & Seems To Be Used For Hotwire:  Various Wires(Red, Green, Black -> Ignition; Then A Black Wire What Comes From Handlebar; Black/White; And Then Black Again From Handlebar):  Thanks. |
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Post by 1pkryan on Nov 11, 2013 14:19:27 GMT -6
I have just ordered a R/R just to eliminate it, are you saying the wiring is( Or at least a big likely) to do with no spark? Would also like to apologize as this is something i should of mentioned in my 1st post. Sorry. I can get you pictures tomorrow morning it's dark outside now. It has a key switch, with 3 wires coming out of it. Not attached to nothing as they have been snipped. inside the ignition looks like a screwdriver has been inserted. The multi-meter i have been using is simular to this one: ( Only Difference is Drapper Logo and It goes up to 600 not 500 )  Not sure on settings ect to be honest, but i can learn how to read what i need with a little guidance if you don't mind helping me. If this is no good i don't mind buying a new 1, just got this off my dad for this particular scooter problem. Parts seem so expensive for this scooter, buying CDI, R/R and a ignition barrel would cost more than you can buy a complete working Honda SGX50 lol.. I am probably going to wait for 1 to come up spares or repairs again and buy it so i can use all the fairing and ignition barrel, be cheaper that way. ------------------------------------------------------------------ EDIT: CDI and R/R i have brought are for a Suzuki Katana AY50, reading on this forum they are the same parts for Honda SGX Sky 50. So these will work fine? Just asking for confirmation really, thanks. |
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