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Post by winchesterboy on Oct 9, 2011 22:53:11 GMT -6
breeze, I can't help with a schematic, but for the lighting problem you might check the voltage regulator. I have the 250B with the other motor, the fuses are different but I have had lighting problems and it was the voltage regulator that was causing the problem.
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Post by winchesterboy on Sept 25, 2011 22:51:34 GMT -6
Well, if you remove the three bolts on the rear chrome cover you get....the rear chrome cover off! This is just a cover and offers access to nothing.
Good luck!
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Post by winchesterboy on Sept 24, 2011 23:07:13 GMT -6
ernie, you might check and see if the "guts" have rusted out inside the muffler. I know the low miles on your scooter warrant that this is not the problem, but it might be worth a check.
When the insides of the muffler rust out the pieces fall into the bottom of the muffler and it rattles really loud. The best way to tell if this is the problem is to remove the muffler, from the scooter, and rotate it end to end, while holding it out in front of you and listening for the clunking of loose "guts"!
You don't have to remove the head pipe, only the two screws on the small chrome cover (8mm) loosen the clamp under this cover. Remove the bottom rear bolt from the muffler and carefully loosen the top bolt and support the muffler with one hand while removing the top bolt. The muffler is pretty heavy so be prepared! When the bolts are removed, twist the muffler loose from the head pipe.
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Post by winchesterboy on Sept 18, 2011 22:18:55 GMT -6
Thanks cruiser and JR for your input/help, Well after putting the scooter back together, enough to start it and check the voltage, the voltage reading at idle was 13.25VDC. This was still a little low so I switched back to the voltage regulator I had on the scooter previously. (since I had the scoot "naked" and the wires had gotten very hot on both the voltage regulator and the stator plugs and had even melted the plastic on one wire of the stator plug, I also changed out the voltage regulator along with the bad stator) This made the idle voltage about 13.65-13.85VDC. (the voltage even went up to 14.15VDC with a little tweak of the throttle) I had ordered a new voltage regulator from EBay; cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3984Q2em1439Q2el2649QQitemZ280588484627QQsspagenameZSTRKQ3aMEWNXQ3aITIt was smaller than the OEM VR, but the wire colors and the plugs are the same. I don't know why the voltage, at idle, was less with this VR.....but I guess I will keep it as a backup. While I had the scooter "naked" I removed the wires from the following connectors/plugs and "tightened" them, and put dielectric grease in them, the stator, voltage regulator, rectifier, enrichener and the cooling fan on/off sensor. So now I guess the charging voltage is OK......but I am going to be checking it randomly! |
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Post by winchesterboy on Sept 12, 2011 16:49:31 GMT -6
I was hoping someone might give some help with a charging problem I am having on my 250B scoot. The battery is not charging properly. While it is idling it only charges to about 12.5-12.6 VDC. If you rev it a little it goes up to maybe 12.8 volts. I recently changed out the stator because it was shorted out to the engine block. While I have it apart I also replaced the voltage regulator. Well, it charges about the same as before the changes. So I am curious about the rectifier/blocking diode now. Should the red and white wires to the rectifier have voltage to them with the ignition off?  As you can see in this photo there is 12.5 volts, battery voltage, to these wires. I thought the ignition had to be in the on position for voltage to be present, it is in the off position in this photo.   What a mess! I do have an electric fuel pump which draws a little extra but I did install LED's in the brake lights, blinkers and the front indicators beside the headlights. I have not completely tested the new stator. I was using "The Stator Papers IV" to check it and the second test said to put the red lead from the meter on the red output wire on the regulator and the black meter lead to the positive post of the battery. When you check the meter reading if it is greater than 0.2 volts= bad connection, I can't find a lose connection! So anyway, if anyone knows about the voltage to the red & white wires going to the rectifier or any other helpful hints that may correct my problem, I am receptive to all ideas! |
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Post by winchesterboy on Aug 25, 2011 21:45:35 GMT -6
speedracer, in some cases you can repair the turn signal switch. It has been a couple of years since I did mine, but if I remember correctly.....there is a screw that loosens up and causes the signal button/lever to jam/bind.
I just removed the two screws holding the assembly on and very carefully "pried" the two halves apart. Then I think you can see the turn signal "guts", I believe there is a ball bearing and a couple of springs, the switch button/lever and a screw. If all the pieces are there, just take a picture of the position of the parts or....remember where they go.... because when you remove the screw from the button/lever, the insides will try to relocate themselves (hold down the button/lever with your thumb and forefinger of your nonscrew driver using hand). I just verified, without turning the scooter on, that by snugging up the small screw, which holds the signal button/lever on, that my turn signal button would push side to side and cancelled when pushed....smoothly. Then I removed the small screw and put a very small dab of blue loctite on the treads and snugged down the screw (do not tighten the screw real tight or the button/lever will bind). Also be very careful not to get loctite on the button/lever.
After putting it all back together I did turn on the scooter to verify that the signals worked correctly. Then I let the loctite dry overnight. As I said, that was about two years ago and so far, knock on wood, the turn signals still work!
Good luck with either the replacement or repair of your switch!
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