Need electrical schematic By breeze71 (Read 2,988 times)

[breeze71]

I need an electrical schematic for a 2008 YY250T-2 Jonway/Roketa. I already have 5 schematics and none are the same and none match my color code. I'm mechanically proficient and do my own work. After an electrical problem with starting, my headlights and parking lights won't work. My dash lights are very dim. I've checked fuses, bulbs, and switches. I've checked with engine off and on. I'm not sure if there are relays for the lights on a Chinese clone. I have the Honda Reflex clone with the Helix motor. Thanks for any help.

[winchesterboy]

breeze, I can't help with a schematic, but for the lighting problem you might check the voltage regulator. I have the 250B with the other motor, the fuses are different but I have had lighting problems and it was the voltage regulator that was causing the problem.

[JR]

Here is the diagrams for that scooter with different engines;

thescooterprofessor.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=250g&action=display&thread=430

The first one is your scooter and this diagram is true and correct. Now color of wiring sometimes varies with the Chinese use one color one day another the next but I know for a fact that this diagram follows every circuit as it was done and corrected by Cruiser and myself off of his YY250T scooter.

You'll not see the fuse box but will see each line that is fused in relation to the fuse box. No relay on the lights on any of the reflex cloned scooters. We also have engine manuals for this scooter too.

Also any problems you might have if you'll list them no one is better at solving them than some of the guys here that own and have worked on this scooter and even though I own the linhai version I know the wiring on this scooter as well.

So let us know what's going on and we'll get to work and also Welcome to the Forum!

JR

[breeze71]

Thanks JR and wcb for the help. I copied off the schematic. I'm going to check it out with the rest of my schematics just to compare. I'll have to start tracking it down but it helps to have the correct schematic to know what you have. Have several other suggestions. I'll post back later.

[JR]

Do keep us posted, take pictures if necessary and we're here to help!

JR

[breeze71]

I've looked at the schematic and tried a couple of things. It is different also. What's the blocking diode? WSB in the thread said that he changed his regulator/rectifier after experiencing the same problems. In my looking at all of the schematics lately I had wondered about the r/r. Is the regulator/rectifier the same as the monostat? I'm only seeing one ground other than the battery and that is on the engine. All of my other lights work including both brake lights. But...... my original problem was not starting after it got warmed up from riding. After it cooled down a little it would start but finally after a long ride it simply wouldn't start. I think it was a brake relay. The auto electrical shop by my house wired around "that?" and it starts, runs fine, and starts when hot. I just don't have headlights, parking lights, and dash light is dim. The dash light is bright when first started and then dims. The brights are on light/blue on the dash comes on when you hit the dim switch. Nothing more to tell as of now.

[JR]

Manostat is the R/R and the headlights, tail lights and dash lights all run off of the same circuit which is tied in right off of the red wire before the blocking diode. This circuit is fused and if your dash(instrument) lights are dim and the others won't even light up then you've got a bad connection in the wiring harness.

There is no brake relay but the brake light switches on the brake handles also sends 12 volts to the starter solenoid too. This is a safety item that won't allow you to start the scooter without a brake pressed. When you push the start button you are completing the ground circuit to the starting solenoid.

The blocking diode is a check valve as it allows 12Vdc to pass to the battery from the R/R for charging but then blocks the voltage from the battery from back feeding to the lighting circuit.

It sounds like to me you've got some bad connections going on or a auto parts mechanic who didn't know what he was doing and messed up the lights?

JR

[breeze71]

JR, I just finished putting it back together. It runs fine and the lights are on. I ran 2 new grounds and while putting it back together I noticed that when I put the 2 halves of the headlight plug together that the ground from the back side was pulling out. I put it back in and taped the end of the plug. Bottom line it was a ground issue. I'll be riding tomorrow. Thanks for all of your help.

[JR]

Awesome!! Still got some nice weather to ride also! Now don't be a stranger!

JR

[n4zou]

The Chinese are famous for doing things on the cheap. That is the cause of the electrical problem you are having. There should be no soldered connections in 12 volt DC wiring harnesses. That's all the Chinese do! I also had the same problem you have. The fix was cutting out all the soldered connections and replacing them with compression type butt connectors. The problem with Chinese soldered connections is they don't bother to twist them together making a solid copper to copper connection before soldering. They just stick the wires together and "glue" them with solder. You end up with solder between the wires and no copper to copper connection. Eventually the connection fails because the solder gets old and becomes a resistor. On my JCL 250A I started at the high and low beam wires coming from the high/low switch on the handlebar. I had to remove the instrument cluster to get to them. I simply removed all the mounting screws and left all the wires connected allowing it to hang out of the way. I cut every soldered joint and reconnected them using butt connectors. I then moved on to the headlight wiring harnesses too. Any automotive retailer will have butt connectors and the crimping tool for them. Usually they sell them in a kit with the crimping tool and an assortment of connectors. This might be a good time to install relays for the headlights, brake lights, and the radiator fan too. Having been an electronics tech and an electrician I got fancy with my relays. I used an extra relay and turn signal flasher connected to the passing light switch. When I pull in that switch the left and right high beam filaments flash alternately left and then right. You need a single poll double throw (SPDT) relay and a turn signal flasher that does not have the blown bulb feature so the relay alternates on/off at normal turn signal flash rated speed. I also use the same circuit on my stop lights. When I pull in the brake lever activating the brake lights the right and left brake lights alternate on and off. This really makes people notice your stopping. It's really simple to implement. Take one standard automotive SPDT relay and connect it like this using this picture of the relay and it's numbers. forum.allaboutcircuits.com/image_cache/httpi27.tinypic.comoj3rsh.jpg From the headlight passing or brake light switch connector that connected to the lights connect a 5 amp fuse. From the fuse connect to the +post on the flasher. From the flasher load post connect to relay terminal 85. Ground relay terminal 86. Run a second wire from the headlight switch and connect it to a fuse appropriate for the load of the headlight or taillight. From the fuse connect the wire to relay terminal 30. Connect one headlight high beam filament or brake light filament to relay post 87 and the other headlight high beam filament or brake light filament to relay post 87A. When you activate the passing or brake switch you energize the flasher can. The flasher can will turn the relay on and off as it would turn signal lights. In this case when the relay is off the light connected to 87A will turn on. When the flasher can turns on the relay the light connected to 87A will turn off and the light connected to 87 will turn on. Not only will you get noticed but the load on switches will be reduced by half as will be the load on the electrical system when they are used.

[JR]

The only soldiered joints or connectors I've found on any of my scooters is the battery termianl ends and not on all of them. They were all crimp on butt connectors most very samll and brass coated. all splices were brass/zinc type crimp connectors and were very poorly crimped and on most occassions loose. also they are notoriuos for not peeling the wire back and crimping the outside rubber coating instead of bare wire.

Myself I took a small needle type soldiering gun and very good electronic soldier and went through them all and fusing the connectors together properly then covering them with quality heat shring or liquid tape. This solved my problems and issues.

Problem with a lot of the Chinese wiring it is very small gauge and butt connectors can easily be pulled off, soldier properly done is permanent.

JR

[tinatinu]

Hello everyone,
i need schematic Roketa 250cc-m54.does anyone have it ?
Thank you for your help.
Appreciate.

[alleyoop]

Hi Tinatinu,
Glad you got here,
Here is where you can find wireing diagrams for the 250 scoots. If you still need some assistance PM JR or open a Thread with your problem.
Alleyoop also known AS LEFTY , Alley, Al

thescooterprofessor.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=250g&action=display&thread=430

[JR]

Yes and a big welcome and Alley has sent you our list of 250 diagrams. Now e need to know if it's the 244 cc engine or the 257cc engine and we can go from there. I am in the process of modifying the YY250T diagram as it has came to my attention that there are more things different on that scooter than it's linhai sister than we thought.

I'll have it changed hopefully in the next day. Now here is a PDF that has a piture of each engine and their description;

thescooterprofessor.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=250ee&action=display&thread=191

We're glad you're here and look forward to helping with your scooter.

JR