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Post by alleyoop on Jun 1, 2014 21:47:47 GMT -6
The chart below shows drill bit sizes by number, fractional standard, and metric units converted into actual size and metric jet size. There are more fractional and metric drill bits available, but this should cover most needs for small carburetors.
Bit Size…...Inches…………… Millimeters…..Jet Size #80…………. 0.0135……………. 0.3429………… .34.29 #79…………. 0.0145……………. 0.3683…………..36.83 1/64"………... 0.015625…………..0.3969…………..39.69 #78.………….0 .016.…………….0.4064…………...40.64 #77…………..0.018.……………..0.4572.…………..45.72 #76.………….0.02…………….…0.508…...………..50.8 #75.………….0.021……………...0.5334..………….53.34 #74…………..0.0225………….....0.5715……….......57.15 #73…………..0.024…………...…0.6096…………...60.96 #72…………..0.025…………...…0.635…………….63.5 #71…………..0.026……………...0.6604…………...66.04 #70…………..0.028…………...…0.7112…………...71.12 #69.………….0.0292.………....…0.74168…..……...74.168 0.75mm……...0.0295.………........0.75……………...75 #68………….0 .031.…………......0.7874…………...78.74 1/32".………..0.03125...…….........0.7938…………...79.38 #67…………..0.032......………….0.8128 …………...81.28 #66.………….0.033.......…………0.8382 …………...83.82 0.85mm…...…0.0335........……….0.85......…………..85 #65…………..0.035.......…………0.889........………..88.9 #64....……….0.036…………........0.9144........………91.44 #63.....………0.037…………........0.9398.....…………93.98 0.95mm……0. 0374..…..........……0.95 ……………...95 #62…………..0.038….......……….0.9652……………96.52 #61…………..0.039..……......……0.9906……………99.06 1mm…………0.0394………..........1.0 ……………….100 #60……………0.04…..………......1.016……………..101.6 #59…………..0.041…………........1.0414…………....104.14 #58…………..0.042………............1.0668……………106.68 #57…………..0.043..………..........1.0922……………109.22 1.1mm……..0.0433…….............…1.1 ………………110 #56…………..0.0465……..........…1.1811…………….118.11 3/64"………..0 .046875…...............1.1906 …………..119.06 1.25mm……0.0492….…................1.25……………....125 1.3mm………0.0512……...............1.3 …….…………130 Alleyoop
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Post by alleyoop on Jun 1, 2014 18:30:56 GMT -6
Yes, did you also change the pilot jet? normally they come with like a #29 you need something a little bigger, maybe like a #32 pilot jet if its a 29, if its a 30 or 32 already get a #35. Alleyoop
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Post by alleyoop on Jun 1, 2014 16:19:48 GMT -6
I think that is the problem it is loosing the battery 12v from the ignition either that or the battery is low. But easy enough to find out put 12v to that wire and see if it fires up. Alleyoop
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Post by alleyoop on Jun 1, 2014 15:31:11 GMT -6
Just put a multi meter on that wire and see if it is getting 12volts when you turn on the key, If not put a 12 volts to it and see if it fires up. Alleyoop
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Post by alleyoop on Jun 1, 2014 13:35:30 GMT -6
Cool, so it is a 2 STROKE with a chain drive, and it has a TCI COIL instead of a CDI. So it may be the problem is with your IGNITION key. On a TCI power is sent to the coil then the TCI receives a pulse from the stator which grounds the coil thru a transistor creating a spark. Alleyoop
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Post by alleyoop on May 31, 2014 23:35:38 GMT -6
Great!! Grounding the motor to frame fixed the Brake issue to keep it running. Now the main jet and or needle have nothing to do with the IDLE. It is all on the pilot jet mixture and amount of air coming in. The Idle speed screw should not be screwed in all the way that means the butterfly is open quite a bit exposing all of the PILOT JETS tiny outlets by the butterfly. So your Fuel Ratio Mixture is not allowing enough fuel which could mean that the PILOT JET passage and or its tiny fuel outlet by the butterfly is clogged. If you turn the fuel ratio mixture in either direction and it DOES NOT CHANGE the idle that is the problem the outlets and or PILOT JET is clogged. Also Adjust the Valves if its a 50cc set them both to .003 inchs if its a 150cc set them both to .004 inchs. Alleyoop
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Post by alleyoop on May 31, 2014 22:20:48 GMT -6
That looks like a valve for the gas tank vent see the other hose on it where does that go to. Maybe a better picture from the other side. But the one you plugged is a vacuum line to operate the valve so yes plug that up. Alleyoop
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Post by alleyoop on May 31, 2014 20:19:49 GMT -6
Well if its a 139qmb that is a 4 stroke. But to make sure look by the Side stand on the motor case itself and it will have the motor stamped on it. We have to make sure what motor it has on it. Alleyoop
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Post by alleyoop on May 31, 2014 19:45:21 GMT -6
What do you mean a NON-CDI ignition? Is this a 2 stroke with points in the stator ? what model and year is the scooter and the motor number that is in there. Alleyoop
I just looked it up and according to the specs it has a CDI.
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Post by alleyoop on May 31, 2014 18:14:45 GMT -6
Just about anywhere really the important grounds is BATTERY NEG to FRAME and MOTOR TO FRAME on a lot of them the wire is usually connected to one of the bolts on the Valve cover if its a 4 stroke then to frame. Alleyoop
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Post by alleyoop on May 31, 2014 16:18:01 GMT -6
Do you have the motor grounded to the frame? Sounds like you missed the ground wire from the motor to the frame. Holding the brake is causing it to ground and when you let go it breaks the ground for the lights. So get a wire and connect it to one of the bolts on the valve cover and then to the frame and try that. Alleyoop
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Post by alleyoop on May 31, 2014 12:27:54 GMT -6
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Post by alleyoop on May 30, 2014 21:51:38 GMT -6
When you jump your scooter battery using a cars battery and you touch both terminals on the solenoid it should spin your starter. Reason I say this I believe your battery is shot. Alleyoop
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Post by alleyoop on May 30, 2014 21:48:26 GMT -6
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Post by alleyoop on May 30, 2014 19:16:17 GMT -6
Sounds like your charging system is not charging and you probably need a new REGULATOR/RECTIFIER. But you guys need a MUTLI METER to make sure that is the problem. GO to harbor freight and pick one up they are like 6 bucks and then test the battery sitting there it shuld read 12.5-12.7 volts. Then if you start the motor and rev it up it should read 13+ volts if it doesn't then your Regulator/Rectifier is bad and not charging the battery. Alleyoop
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