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Post by kered409 on May 8, 2013 9:46:04 GMT -6
Thanks justbuggin2
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Post by kered409 on May 6, 2013 22:42:16 GMT -6
So After I got everything working I spent alot of time wireing the new H4 auto bulbs to the battery.And what a differance in the BRITENESS of the lights.I ended up using 1 relay for the low beams,1 for the high beams and 1 for those smaller clear bulbs right above my headlights.Everything still works off the stock light switch.I put the meter on to the battery and she is still charging.I am going to order an marine volt gauge to hook up to the battery so I can keep an eye on the charging sys. So all in all I thank everyone who tryed to help and I hope this will help someone eles who has the same prob as I did. The H4 bulbs hooked up to the b attery work VERY WELL for my 8 mile trek home from work tonight!I would recomend this up grade to everyone... Happy scootin to you all!OHHH yeah I spent 15.5 hours on this on Sat@ 10:30 am-sunday 2am..Then another 2 hours sunday morning.Then took it for an 3 hr ride with everything working out fine.
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Post by kered409 on May 6, 2013 22:27:16 GMT -6
Well the new harness came in from scrappydogs...LOL What a joke that was.I laid it out along side of the bike to see which plugs would go where..This thing had at least half of the plugs totally differant than mine..Not to mention it wouldn't even reach from my CDI box to thr R/R in front of the handle bars and that is streched in the air just about at the bottom of the seat...If it wasn't going to reach that way it sherly not going to reach running under the floor boards..So I figured I would rip the harness apart and just use the YELLOW stator wire that runs to the R/R...NOPE that has a couple other wires splicing into it...I removed the R/R and tryed to just plug the stator wires in and test to see if it changes my light issues..Well it did not I had the same readings as my old wires.I was like WTF is going on here!!! After probing the R/R wires for more volt readings I bumped the wiring harness (stock harness)while the scoot was running and noticed my dash light come on? ?HHMM So I stated to jiggle those wires and notice it would turn on and off so I pulled the plug apart to look at the male and female ends and long and behold I notice most of the female ends have opened up so The male ends where kinda loose when plugged in.So I took the time to pop out every wire in every plug (Female ends) and gave them all a little squeeze to tighten the fit and after about 2-3 hours of doing that I started the scoot back up and PROBLUM SOLVED....ALL THE LIGHTS WERE WORKING FINE . So any one with Lights that start out brite then fad to nothing,and if you press the brakes and they turn back on but still kinda dim Check all of the female wires in the plugs.
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Post by kered409 on May 3, 2013 8:34:52 GMT -6
I have anew one coming for Sat.Just going to replace just in case my bad luck continues.Dont want it going up in smoke near my car in the garage.
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Post by kered409 on May 3, 2013 8:17:43 GMT -6
I stated to look for a break in the wire and a factory splice in it.It was coverd with e-tape.If it does have a break or got pinched or possibly melted to anouther wire,if I just run a new yellow,wouldnt the old one still be running some kinda interfearence on what ever is grounding that one out? I am going to order a new harness from scrappydog,for under $36 delivered,just route it and plug and play..But after I do that and the lights HOPEFULLY work like normal,I am going to start rewiring all the lights off the battery/key/(rocker switch.going to use a rocker switch so I can turn all the lights off just incase of charging issues) Thanks for the HELP guys! I'll post how things go when the new harness gets here.
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Post by kered409 on May 2, 2013 11:26:18 GMT -6
Should I get a new wiring harness? I have electrical issues,I just want to fix this the easiest way possible.I ony see 1 commen ground point nearest the motor and no wiers are loose or broken. PLEASE HELP WITH ANY INFO I AM AT A LOSS HERE! thanks
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Post by kered409 on May 2, 2013 11:21:45 GMT -6
Here is what I am getting for ACv:
off the stator: Yellow=12acv white=18acv both at 2000 rpm
at 4000 rpm yellow=21acv white=25acv
at the r/r 2000 rpm yellow=.014acv white=38acv
at 4000rpm yellow=.19 white=53acv
whats up with that.....
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Post by kered409 on Apr 30, 2013 22:44:05 GMT -6
OMG all that relay info is jibberish to me...WTH did not under stand any of that....wow I feel dumb now
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Post by kered409 on Apr 30, 2013 22:28:15 GMT -6
I dont know whats going on with this thing but the scoot ran really good on my way to work.But when I fired it up to leave at 11:30 pm she ran like crap,My lights started out really bright for about 5 sec then they dimed to NOTHING unless I hit the brakes then the headlights came back on but still to dim to see where I was going.I am glad I took a flashlight with me just in case...If i put on any directionals or hazzards the head lights and dash lights would flash as well...If I just run the head and tail lights off the battery would what ever is wrong with this thing cause any more damage or catch on fire?I have just about enough of this stupid junk as I can take..I cant find any loose grounds.I only see 1 commen ground point on the bottom of the frame.Should I just get an new wireing harness or what?Please give me a reason not to torch it.I was going to buy a new one till I saw how much they went up in the 3 years I owned this 1...Holly mark up for china crap!AND I MEAN CRAP!!!!!
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Post by kered409 on Apr 30, 2013 22:19:45 GMT -6
kool thanks JB2
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Post by kered409 on Apr 30, 2013 0:57:36 GMT -6
This is how to wire up aftermarket lights/fog lights using the factory switch for Low and High beams. First off disconnect the battery, you can easily short out wires and or blow fuses if you make a mistake and cross/touch wires together that aren't suppose to be together.
Ok to use the Factory Switch you need 3 relays, I used (3) Hella 12 volt 40 amp relays. Make sure to get good relays because cheap ones will blow out alot or just quit working. So lets start with the bottom of a basic relay.
Wiring is as follows for the Low Beam:
PIN 30: This is connected to the positive terminal of the battery.
PIN 85: Connect this one to the White wire in the Factory Headlight Harness.
PIN 87: Connect this to the Power Wire of the light you want to be your Low Beam Headlight.
PIN 86: Connect this to a Ground or to the Negative Terminal of the battery.
PIN 87A: This Pin is Not Used.
And now Connect the Ground wire from the Light to a Ground point or to the Negative Terminal of the Battery.
Ok if you did everything properly when you turn the Ruck's Key to the ON Position the Light should automatically come on.
Now For the High Beams:
Get 2 more Relays, I used 2 because I dont want one relay trying to handle the power for 2 lights. And when you Flip the Factory Bright Switch this will cut off the light you just hooked up for the Low Beam.
Wiring is as follows:
All pins connect to the same locations for both relays as above EXCEPT for PIN 85.
PIN 85: Connect these Pins on both relays to the BLUE wire in the Factory Headlight Harness.
And Connect both Pin 87's to each of the Headlight Power Wires.
And also Connect the Ground wire for the other Light to a ground point or to the Negative Terminal on the Battery.
So how this works is when you turn the scoot ON the Low Beam will come on as usual and when you flip the Factory Bright Switch the 2 High Beam Relays will turn on and send power to Both Lights, and at the Same Time the Low Beam Relay will turn Off instantly.
And for those of you who want No Lighting when you turn on the scoot, just follow the High Beam Instructions, this will allow you to flip the Factory Bright Switch to turn on both lights. And if your using a Fog Light that has 2 bulbs instead of one the wiring is the same but to each Bulb instead of each individual Head/Fog Light. Also this puts no Strain on the Factory Wiring, the Factory Wiring is only used to turn on the Relays and they send power directly to the Lights. Good Luck and Happy Headlight Changing
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Post by kered409 on Apr 30, 2013 0:57:12 GMT -6
Ok my new R/R came in just befor I had to goto work.But I had a chance to quickly bolt it up and try it out...I was very happy to see my lights back up and running.I cam home from work and started to tape up the harness and put the plastics back on so I could try them out tonight...I got done at 2 am..I statede the bike and wth NO FRIGGIN LIGHTS!!!!I started to think that some wires were being pinched or some thing so I took back off the plastics one by one and wiggled any wires I seen under that peice of plastic..Long and behold When I took out the under seat compartment and wiggled some wires I seen an arc...It was the NEW STATOR PLUG..For some reason that plug or wire connectors were not holding my stock wires sercurly..So thank good ness before I tossed out the old stator I cut off the plug and bulit connectors...That just may saved my bum...So I soldered that plug on my new startoe wires and shrink wrapped them then put some electrical tape over that...I started the bike back up and gigled the wires and did not see any arc this time so I giggled them more watching my rear running light to see if I could see the filament go out(tail light was off so I could see the bulb).And NADA it stayed lit...WOOT WOOT but now it 2:35 am and I dont feel like putting the plastics back on to take it for a rip..Its just gonna have to wait till I get up late tomarrow morning..Hopefully all will go well so I can save some gas using this thing instead up my lifted Bronco..Wish me luck...Also I want to run the headlights and rear running light off the battery.I found this on a HONDA Rukus form do you think it will work on our scoots?THe only thing it says it for are the headlights..But I bet I can figure out how to run the tail light also..What do you guys think of this...
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Post by kered409 on Apr 28, 2013 20:10:08 GMT -6
Huh..I just checked and this is under "Tech Talk"I am just at a loss everywhere
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Post by kered409 on Apr 28, 2013 12:19:18 GMT -6
I did an ohlms test on the R/R and no matter which to tabs out of the four I touched with the leads I get no reading at all. Another funny thing I found doing a continuity check from the harness R/R plug (same end) if I touch 1 lead to the green wire and the other to the yellow I get continuity! Should this happen..I'm thinking no? Sorry if there is any mispellings this spell check is running to slow and I am running low p...well you know!
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Post by kered409 on Apr 28, 2013 9:54:16 GMT -6
Well it does not seem fine at all..When I start it everything good but after 4 sec the lights all dim down to non existant.And if I rev it up to 6000 they are still week.
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