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Post by kered409 on Apr 28, 2013 9:17:28 GMT -6
last week I put a new stator in my 150cc scoot(8 pole) same as the original one...Did not notice at that time that the yellow and white wires were in the opposite sides of each other than the bikes harness.I started to blow dash and running lights... My question is would that ruin the r/r?
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Post by tvnacman on Apr 28, 2013 9:26:25 GMT -6
switch the wires and retry . I don't think it would damage the regulator .
John
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Post by kered409 on Apr 28, 2013 9:48:20 GMT -6
I did everything seems fine I guess...It was wierd the lights would get brighter when pushing a brake lever in..
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Post by kered409 on Apr 28, 2013 9:54:16 GMT -6
Well it does not seem fine at all..When I start it everything good but after 4 sec the lights all dim down to non existant.And if I rev it up to 6000 they are still week.
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Post by JR on Apr 28, 2013 11:03:15 GMT -6
Time to do a voltage check on the R/R and stator. I'm betting on a bad R/R.
JR
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Post by kered409 on Apr 28, 2013 12:19:18 GMT -6
I did an ohlms test on the R/R and no matter which to tabs out of the four I touched with the leads I get no reading at all. Another funny thing I found doing a continuity check from the harness R/R plug (same end) if I touch 1 lead to the green wire and the other to the yellow I get continuity! Should this happen..I'm thinking no? Sorry if there is any mispellings this spell check is running to slow and I am running low p...well you know!
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Post by justbuggin2 on Apr 28, 2013 14:12:00 GMT -6
Jr is the wiring guru he be able to help i think in it tech section he has a dianiose guide
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Post by kered409 on Apr 28, 2013 20:10:08 GMT -6
Huh..I just checked and this is under "Tech Talk"I am just at a loss everywhere
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Post by tvnacman on Apr 29, 2013 4:58:54 GMT -6
K , don't be discuraged . Your in good hands we can figure it out . If the voltages are good running from the stator and the regulator is not pulling down the voltage , its the regulator . Just go over the grounds , if that does not help I have a 4pin regulator that should square it off.
Jphn
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Post by JR on Apr 29, 2013 5:41:09 GMT -6
This is what you're looking for. JR
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Post by kered409 on Apr 30, 2013 0:57:12 GMT -6
Ok my new R/R came in just befor I had to goto work.But I had a chance to quickly bolt it up and try it out...I was very happy to see my lights back up and running.I cam home from work and started to tape up the harness and put the plastics back on so I could try them out tonight...I got done at 2 am..I statede the bike and wth NO FRIGGIN LIGHTS!!!!I started to think that some wires were being pinched or some thing so I took back off the plastics one by one and wiggled any wires I seen under that peice of plastic..Long and behold When I took out the under seat compartment and wiggled some wires I seen an arc...It was the NEW STATOR PLUG..For some reason that plug or wire connectors were not holding my stock wires sercurly..So thank good ness before I tossed out the old stator I cut off the plug and bulit connectors...That just may saved my bum...So I soldered that plug on my new startoe wires and shrink wrapped them then put some electrical tape over that...I started the bike back up and gigled the wires and did not see any arc this time so I giggled them more watching my rear running light to see if I could see the filament go out(tail light was off so I could see the bulb).And NADA it stayed lit...WOOT WOOT but now it 2:35 am and I dont feel like putting the plastics back on to take it for a rip..Its just gonna have to wait till I get up late tomarrow morning..Hopefully all will go well so I can save some gas using this thing instead up my lifted Bronco..Wish me luck...Also I want to run the headlights and rear running light off the battery.I found this on a HONDA Rukus form do you think it will work on our scoots?THe only thing it says it for are the headlights..But I bet I can figure out how to run the tail light also..What do you guys think of this...
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Post by kered409 on Apr 30, 2013 0:57:36 GMT -6
This is how to wire up aftermarket lights/fog lights using the factory switch for Low and High beams. First off disconnect the battery, you can easily short out wires and or blow fuses if you make a mistake and cross/touch wires together that aren't suppose to be together.
Ok to use the Factory Switch you need 3 relays, I used (3) Hella 12 volt 40 amp relays. Make sure to get good relays because cheap ones will blow out alot or just quit working. So lets start with the bottom of a basic relay.
Wiring is as follows for the Low Beam:
PIN 30: This is connected to the positive terminal of the battery.
PIN 85: Connect this one to the White wire in the Factory Headlight Harness.
PIN 87: Connect this to the Power Wire of the light you want to be your Low Beam Headlight.
PIN 86: Connect this to a Ground or to the Negative Terminal of the battery.
PIN 87A: This Pin is Not Used.
And now Connect the Ground wire from the Light to a Ground point or to the Negative Terminal of the Battery.
Ok if you did everything properly when you turn the Ruck's Key to the ON Position the Light should automatically come on.
Now For the High Beams:
Get 2 more Relays, I used 2 because I dont want one relay trying to handle the power for 2 lights. And when you Flip the Factory Bright Switch this will cut off the light you just hooked up for the Low Beam.
Wiring is as follows:
All pins connect to the same locations for both relays as above EXCEPT for PIN 85.
PIN 85: Connect these Pins on both relays to the BLUE wire in the Factory Headlight Harness.
And Connect both Pin 87's to each of the Headlight Power Wires.
And also Connect the Ground wire for the other Light to a ground point or to the Negative Terminal on the Battery.
So how this works is when you turn the scoot ON the Low Beam will come on as usual and when you flip the Factory Bright Switch the 2 High Beam Relays will turn on and send power to Both Lights, and at the Same Time the Low Beam Relay will turn Off instantly.
And for those of you who want No Lighting when you turn on the scoot, just follow the High Beam Instructions, this will allow you to flip the Factory Bright Switch to turn on both lights. And if your using a Fog Light that has 2 bulbs instead of one the wiring is the same but to each Bulb instead of each individual Head/Fog Light. Also this puts no Strain on the Factory Wiring, the Factory Wiring is only used to turn on the Relays and they send power directly to the Lights. Good Luck and Happy Headlight Changing
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Post by justbuggin2 on Apr 30, 2013 7:47:52 GMT -6
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Post by kered409 on Apr 30, 2013 22:19:45 GMT -6
kool thanks JB2
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Post by kered409 on Apr 30, 2013 22:28:15 GMT -6
I dont know whats going on with this thing but the scoot ran really good on my way to work.But when I fired it up to leave at 11:30 pm she ran like crap,My lights started out really bright for about 5 sec then they dimed to NOTHING unless I hit the brakes then the headlights came back on but still to dim to see where I was going.I am glad I took a flashlight with me just in case...If i put on any directionals or hazzards the head lights and dash lights would flash as well...If I just run the head and tail lights off the battery would what ever is wrong with this thing cause any more damage or catch on fire?I have just about enough of this stupid junk as I can take..I cant find any loose grounds.I only see 1 commen ground point on the bottom of the frame.Should I just get an new wireing harness or what?Please give me a reason not to torch it.I was going to buy a new one till I saw how much they went up in the 3 years I owned this 1...Holly mark up for china crap!AND I MEAN CRAP!!!!!
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