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Post by rp on Sept 15, 2011 18:30:43 GMT -6
I thought the greenish color in the main ignition (key) connector was just a discoloration.
I pulled the wire out and was wrong. A spot of corrosion. I went ahead and replaced the main hot wire from the battery all the way up. (using 14 gage wire) Now I'm getting a blue spark. So much for buying a new CDI and Coil. Isn't one of the first PDI rules to check the connectors. Most of this is just getting to know what to look for .
It's still in the garage, but running a lot stronger. For all you other first timers like myself,You have to get to the blue spark. My issues have mostly been in the connectors.
And I going to be replacing them with the "trailer type" connectors I can get at Auto Zone.
My Haynes Scooter Manual says "Fat Blue Spark" I have a blue spark, but not a fat blue one.
Any thoughts on that.
Still going forward
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Post by rp on Sept 8, 2011 18:33:19 GMT -6
Received my coil today. I'll hopefully put it on this weekend. I did test it out with my electrial tester and came across something I think is strange. The boot showed 0-oms and had no connectivity. The NGK boot that I have shows 5.2-oms and no connectivity. Which would be best to use OEM or replacement?  Thanks in advance for any enlightenment \\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\ |
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Post by rp on Sept 4, 2011 15:51:42 GMT -6
Got the fuse problem under control and an electric fuel pump. But still have a miss around 3000 rpm. Got a new coil coming this week and hope its the solution. I have the 257cc engine.
Most of what I read now call it the 260.
Weekends go by fast.
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Post by rp on Sept 4, 2011 15:24:00 GMT -6
To follow up. The regulator is sitting on the shelf. I'm assumig the fuel pump is not strong enough the activate the regulator. But it runs the scooter. Was crusing 55-60 for 5-6miles and no slow downs. One more issue checked off the list.
Cruiser, I hope you didn't get hit to hard by the storm.
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Post by rp on Sept 4, 2011 15:11:46 GMT -6
This seems to be the exact problem I've had with my MC-62. I,ve got a new coil on the way now and hope that resolves the weak spark issue. The reason I was not getting any spark was because of bad connectors. (Poor PDI) Take the female end of the connector and push a small screw driver into it to compress the metal end. The connectors on my scoot have a little cut out on the side I put the screw driver in. The connectors use to come apart very easy.
now their a lot tighter. Hope this can help
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Post by rp on Aug 14, 2011 12:03:52 GMT -6
What a clown, I'm answering my own post. I just found a site
Summit Racing (.com) Has 2 dial regulators.
Mr Gasket 1-6 psi 27.00 + 9.95 ship
Spector Performance 1-5.5 psi 32.95 free ship
Any suggestions welcome.
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Post by rp on Aug 14, 2011 11:49:57 GMT -6
Now that I know I need the electric fuel and know what I'm looking for, a 2-4psi pump is fairly easy to find. NAPA, Pep Boys, ete.
What I can not seem to find is the regulator that should go with it. When I mention I need a dial regulator, know one seems to have it (Unless I haven't looked hard enouth)
Thanks in advance.
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Post by rp on Aug 7, 2011 5:47:18 GMT -6
This has the horizontal engine. Got it back together last night, turned the key, hit the bright light switch, the fuse for the dash must have blown. Started up, but only get speedometer when I run, everything else is gone. I'll check fuses later. Maybe that's why I had 3-15amp fuses and not what the wiring diagram said. Then again (unfortunately) I,m not error free either.
Mostly a weekend warrior.
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Post by rp on Jul 31, 2011 16:24:40 GMT -6
JR, thanks for all the info, I've been using the Yamaha YP250 manual and the wireing diagram in the XY260T-4 user manual I got with the scooter as my guide. Cutting to the chase, I seperated the connectors from the stator and the rectifier from the harness(again) and sprayed contact cleaner into both sides and then took a small screwdriver and forced the clips in the female ends closer together, I had to bend the male ends a little to get them to line up and go in and now I have spark and the scoot is running.
My thought is to replace these sloppy connectors with the bullet type. They seem to have a much better connection ability. And I did go over the PDI Guide several times and thought I had the connector issue under control. (I realy did).
This is my first scoot and it's been a good learning experience.
Thanks, I'm going for a ride.
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Post by rp on Jul 31, 2011 11:50:58 GMT -6
Got the scooter last Oct. 2010 and ran rough from the start. My feeling is the air tube put so much pressure on the spark plug cap it forced it it short out. From my searching, once the system shorts out or loses its ground, the main components of the electrical system can be harmed. After I replaced the boot, it ran the best it ever did for one weekend. The battery is good, lights, horn and brake lights work and the engine cranks over like new (hey, it is new).  Just not getting any spark. I have a rectifier on order now. For good measure I am also going to replace the coil and stator. My gut feeling is that the demand for these parts was so high in 2008 the overall QC for one of these main parts went totally bad and that one part is causing a lot of headaches. I'm changing them all. I already have the CDI. (It didn't change anything) I've checked out the wiring several times with my meter and there appears no problem there. Am I overlooking something? The journey continues. Any and all comments welcome. I always wanted to be a scooted mechanic , I just didn't know it. |
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