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Post by austinbikergirl on Aug 19, 2012 6:59:01 GMT -6
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Post by austinbikergirl on Aug 27, 2011 11:49:02 GMT -6
The majority of oil leaks appear from the valve cover o-ring. Have also had several with hairline cracks on lower right side of cylinder head. Wise to do a valve clearance ck/adj. while your changing cover o-ring. If you drive the scoot looking for a leak, it will still blow all over. It's better to lock the front wheel while on center stand, and let someone give it partial throttle till leak detected. Use caution as you wouldn't want the scoot to jump off stand while giving throttle; seen it happen, not funny. Another thing is to check that your crankcase breather is functioning properly, not restricted.
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Post by austinbikergirl on Aug 7, 2011 21:30:35 GMT -6
The spring appears to be an aftermarket.Changing the rear tension spring can have good and/or bad effects if not properly balanced. In order to explain this, the rear torque-driver spring has a very specialized function which is to maintain enough tension on the belt to keep it from slipping. This also is a bit of balancing act because too much belt tension translates to inefficiency. It’s kind of like over-tightening the chain on your bicycle- power is wasted by over-stretching the belt. On the other hand, too little tension and the added power of your recent engine modification will vanish as heat generated by belt slipping and won't find its way to the rear tires. The trick is to find the just the right tension without overdoing it. A secondary influence of the torque driver spring is that it has a slight impact on shift speed since the belt tension needs to be reacted against by the front sheaves. The higher belt tension tends to push the belt deeper into the front sheaves making the ratio higher, and revving the motor higher. Therefore, for a given desired rpm you would need to compensate with a higher roller weight to bring the rpms back down. After a torque driver spring change, it’s good practice to re-optimize the roller weights. In my opinion, I would recommend going back to the original spring.
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Post by austinbikergirl on Aug 7, 2011 13:40:55 GMT -6
Hi Wheels and welcome. You are on the right track with your diagnosis of clutch and drive. Judging from the photos you posted, it appears the clutch plates are burned. If they are not a good metal gray color, and have spots of blue or black, then they are burned. The heat incurred also affects the friction plates that it comes in contact with. We refer to it as glazing. It would be wise to replace all the plates in the clutch. It is important to pay attention to the clutch clearance measurements. ref. 3-48 service manual. There are 3 clutch plates with various measurements to give you the proper clearance. If you do not have this manual, there is one in the download library of this group. The spring seat and spring are an integral part for proper operation. If there is grooving on the spring seat from the spring ( ref. 3-51) or discoloration, then I recommend replacing them also. You are wise in replacing ther belt, especially since we are talking about a rubber part that is over 28 years old. The specs may be correct, but rubber compound deterioates with age and heat. As for re-assembling, if you do not have the mega-dollar special tool, you can utilize a bench vise along with a socket or such that doesn't damage, but be sure and use wood blocks also to prevent direct damaging contact to clutch housing,etc. You have to be creative, but also use common sense and mechanical aptitude when special tools are not accessible. While you are at it, I recommend changing the rear gear oil with AMSOIL 20/50. The rear drive and gears can get pretty warm. Another word of advice from someone that sees it alot: NEVER (that means friends also) let anyone ride your scoot. I would like an update how it goes.
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Post by austinbikergirl on Aug 2, 2011 6:46:43 GMT -6
There are several factors which can present this issue. You mentioned it had a straight pipe. Did the previous owner ride it this way? In carburetion, it could have been jetted for the straight pipe and sometimes, owners will drill holes in the airbox for more airflow. Inspect the airbox for any modifications. If compression was an issue, you would experience difficulty in starting and idling after warmup. Ignition can also be a culprit. The cdi may have an improper limitation. The rear drive clutch slipping at higher rpms could also be an issue.
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Post by austinbikergirl on Jul 29, 2011 11:59:36 GMT -6
My first thought is improper fuel level. However, if that's the case, a long highway ride with an eventual power loss or stalling, would reveal too low fuel level. If the level is too high, it causes a loading up, too rich. Also an improper fuel filter can restrict the amount of fuel needed to run properly, hence the highway ride will also reveal. You also don't mention if you live in higher altitude (colorado) or if the hills you describe are similar to San Fran. Strangely enough, something simple as a loose plugcap can cause this situation also.
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Post by austinbikergirl on Jul 27, 2011 6:44:20 GMT -6
I appreciated the kind request from JR to join this forum. I hope to be an asset of technical assistance to the group. At a time when it seems that nearly all the chinese scooter businesses here in Austin, and pretty sure the rest of the US, have sold tons of scooters and then closed their doors, leaving scooter owners to fend for themselves, I realized the opportunity for someone to keep their transports moving. Thus in 2009, Austin City Powersports was born and immediately word of mouth spread fast. I have over 30 years in the motorcycle, scooter,ATV and PWC industry for all the top manufacturers, and still loving the challenges and opportunities that presents itself each day. Now if we could only get some rain...
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