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Post by ellpee on Feb 28, 2019 11:19:57 GMT -6
All other thoughts welcome, but it sounds like I'm gonna have to pull the windshield and a bunch of front plastic so I can get at the back of the dashboard, never a fun prospect.
One other factoid that occurred to me: the electric fuel pump causes a wee flicker in the dashboard lights when I first turn the key on and before I hit the starter switch. (But not the indicator lights, just the gauge lighting.) Understandable as the pump starts pumping and drawing power as soon as the key is on, and it goes away as soon as the engine and charging circuit are doing their thing and providing the necessary 12v. But since the new problem also involves flickering lights, wondering if there's a relationship to be explored. More than likely not, just wondering out loud.
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Post by ellpee on Feb 27, 2019 8:31:52 GMT -6
2012 Magnum has been running well since I converted to electric fuel pump, but new issue. Went on a long run yesterday, about 50 miles on paved but often bumpy secondary roads. On the way home, ALL the dashboard indicator lights -- headlights, brights, and turn indicators -- started flickering in unison. Seemed to happen only at speeds above 35 or so, and particularly when pavement was not satin smooth. Kept it slow and nursed it home, but of course need to find and fix the problem, presumably a loose connection somewhere. (Did not, by the way, cause any starting issues, shut it down a couple times on the way home and it started back up just fine. Did notice engine running a little rough when the flickering was going on, though.)
Thing is, I don't know where to start. What would cause ALL those lights to flicker simultaneously? Right handlebar switch controls running lights/headlights/no lights, left handlebar switch sets dim or bright headlights, flashes brights, and activates left or right turn signal. So I can imagine a problem with ONE of those switches might affect ONE of those dash lights, but don't get what in the wiring would send power to all the indicator lights at the same time. Any help appreciated.
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Post by ellpee on Feb 24, 2019 9:21:19 GMT -6
Whew!
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Post by ellpee on Feb 21, 2019 11:11:45 GMT -6
Posting here because it's probably a generic question, not trike-specific. Thrilled to report my 2012 Magnum is starting and running okay for the most part; racking up miles when weather allows, and conversion to electric fuel pump solved a bunch of multi-year woes after I came up with a reasonable mounting bracket solution. I am noticing, however, that when decelerating before a stop I get some minor popping from the exhaust, nothing like backfires just low volume pop pop pop. Is that something there's an adjustment for, or just something to ignore and live with? Nowhere near loud enough that anybody would ever complain about it, but is it potentially harmful to the engine?
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Post by ellpee on Nov 19, 2018 9:34:44 GMT -6
10-4
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Post by ellpee on Nov 16, 2018 9:22:20 GMT -6
So, cure? New discs, or get discs turned, or just live with it until it gets worse? Or other? This will likely be my December project. Hoping for all I'm worth that I won't need any new IceBear-specific parts, not fun or cheap to have to order anything from them.
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Post by ellpee on Nov 15, 2018 10:21:36 GMT -6
My 2012 Magnum trike, which finally has about 2500 miles on it, is showing signs of brake grabbing, mainly from the rear brakes but a bit from the front too. Stops fine, even in hard braking mode, but it grabs intermittently before finally taking hold. Not a real sharp lock-the-wheels grab, just feels like the rotors are thicker in some areas than in others, which seems implausible at that low mileage. I'm generally okay with pulling the wheels and checking what's up, can't be that different from my truck brakes which I've done a couple times. but any suggestions on what I should suspect first and how I should go about checking it?
Oh yeah, there's a bit of a squeak associated with the grabbing, too, not a nasty metal-to-metal sound but just a little eek-eek-eek until the grabbing stops.
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Post by ellpee on Sept 20, 2018 8:03:45 GMT -6
Nah, not worth the trouble. Since it's in my favor, I'll just bear it in mind and grin widely at the radar cops as I zoom by.
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Post by ellpee on Sept 19, 2018 7:39:13 GMT -6
Looking that way, and there's nothing as much fun as cutting plexiglas, especially CURVED plexi.
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Post by ellpee on Sept 18, 2018 15:14:40 GMT -6
Have noticed this all along, but just beginning to wonder what if anything I can do about it. OEM speedo on my 2012 Magnum has a pretty significant error, almost 5mph when it says I'm going 45mph. In my favor, thank goodness, reads HIGHER than reality. But since speedo and tires are all factory issue, what if anything can I do about it? The way it is I'll probably never get a speeding ticket, but I might get flipped off a lot by other drivers.
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Post by ellpee on Sept 17, 2018 7:33:47 GMT -6
Anybody know a source (other than Ice Bear) for replacement windshield for 2012 Magnum? Thinking I'd like one a little taller, but I can find nothing that looks like it would fit.
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Post by ellpee on Aug 23, 2018 8:24:05 GMT -6
Yeah, I'd given some thought to the float too, I can imagine it bouncing up and down like crazy on those rough stretches. Hate to have to pull the carb again, but may have to give that a try. I presume just bending the float tab a wee bit should do the trick; seems like I'd want the float to let a bit more gas accumulate in the chamber before the needle valve closes, right? The fact that just pulling over and letting it run while standing still "cures" the problem steers me away from something electrical, though I don't rule it out entirely. Any other ideas out there in scootworld?
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Post by ellpee on Aug 19, 2018 12:57:31 GMT -6
Re-posting from the trike classroom, as this is more likely a generic problem and I'll get more answers here. Finally got most of my problems resolved and have been able to put 100 miles or so on my 2012 Magnum, good fun. But I notice it does not like bumpy roads -- not just off-road conditions, even rough pavement, of which we have far too much here in Tucson. If I hit a really bumpy stretch filled with patches and crack seals it wants to die, almost as if I had run out of gas. If I react quickly on the gas I can sometimes pull off the road and keep it running until it smooths out again, and if it actually dies it's perfectly willing to start again. But I'm not real sure where to start looking for the problem or what to do about it. Would be happy to limit myself to smooth pavement all the time, but that's not realistic. Thoughts on where to start looking? Thinking maybe carb float bumping up and down enough to intermittently shut off gas flow??? Read more: thescooterprofessor.proboards.com/thread/4783/magnum-again-new-question?page=1#ixzz5OeTo9Uik |
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Post by ellpee on Aug 18, 2018 8:32:24 GMT -6
Posting in trike zone, but this is probably a generic question. Finally got most of my problems resolved and have been able to put 100 miles or so on my 2012 Magnum, good fun. But I notice it does not like bumpy roads -- not just off-road conditions, even rough pavement, of which we have far too much here in Tucson. If I hit a really bumpy stretch filled with patches and crack seals it wants to die, almost as if I had run out of gas. If I react quickly on the gas I can sometimes pull off the road and keep it running until it smooths out again, and if it actually dies it's perfectly willing to start again. But I'm not real sure where to start looking for the problem or what to do about it. Would be happy to limit myself to smooth pavement all the time, but that's not realistic. Thoughts on where to start looking?
I MOVED THIS TO THE GENERAL DISCUSSION CLASSROOM
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Post by ellpee on Aug 6, 2018 11:45:35 GMT -6
Boy if I had his luck I would quit. I have 3 Zodiac's by Ice Bear 1 has 10,000 #2 7,000 # 3 2,500 miles never had all his problems and valves never been touched I believe if it works leaves it alone and great oil 10w 40 amsoil Agree. You've had a much better experience. Was out on a run this morning, all seems okay aside from some rattles, need to tighten some screws and plastics I assume. But at barely 2000 miles I've had to invest a LOT of time, effort, part shopping, and general aggravation to get to this point. Okay, I'll say maybe ordering the Magnum to use at 7500' altitude may have been a bad idea. But some of the many things I've had to deal with had nothing whatsoever to do with altitude, just with poor QC and poor quality materials. So I stand by my position: avoid Chinese if you can afford it, and DEFINITELY avoid anything where there's no dealer in your town unless you yourself are a very capable small engine mechanic with lots of tools and a good home workshop. As to "if it works leave it alone," what if it DOESN'T work? Have been tempted more than once to just send this $4500 machine to the crusher, with lots of encouragement from my wife. Only reason I haven't done so is "if it doesn't work, fix it!" |
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