|
|
Post by o0ohakko0o on Sept 27, 2015 13:25:12 GMT -6
Yes JR very similar
|
|
|
|
Post by JR on Sept 27, 2015 16:21:41 GMT -6
Well then it's pretty simple, turn the flywheel to the T mark making sure the piston is at the top and then put the camshaft gear on with the marks lined up and you're good to go. When you tighten the head bolts up make sure you set the valve clearance correctly and she should be ready to run.
JR
|
|
|
|
Post by o0ohakko0o on Sept 27, 2015 23:43:10 GMT -6
Home made valve spring compressor BIG THANKS JR worked wonders  |
|
|
|
Post by JR on Sept 28, 2015 6:19:53 GMT -6
Yes sir one can make things work with a little thinking and desire. Main thing is you're moving along and not spending money on a tool you may never use again. Good Job!  |
|
|
|
Post by o0ohakko0o on Sept 28, 2015 22:43:12 GMT -6
JR having troubles getting the flywheel right down on the crankshaft as it needs to go down about 3mm more I can't get it down no matter what I do ? I'm sure it goes down that 3mm more to completely lock in as I can take the flywheel off with my hands
I got it on but unsure if it goes down any further i tried everything to make it go down further but would not go so all is back together new oil etc .... thought id try to start it to seen what happens lol but the solinoid was just clicking so im charging the battery up tonight try again tomorrow
|
|
|
|
Post by JR on Sept 29, 2015 6:24:41 GMT -6
Pull the flywheel back off! Emory cloth the key, shaft and inside the flywheel, clean it perfectly,put a thin layer of grease on the shaft, tighten the nut down snug, if it doesn't go all the way down then take a hammer and gently turn the flywheel and peck on it by the nut while turning it at the same time, then retighten the nut some more. By doing this it will bottom out. Also a good trick after getting it ready is to put ice on the shaft and get it as cold as possible while heating the flywheel with a small torch, then quickly putting it on and tightening the nut. This expands the flywheel and shrinks the shaft.
IMO if you run it with the flywheel not all the way down you're heading to a disaster.
JR
|
|
|
|
Post by o0ohakko0o on Sept 29, 2015 13:06:40 GMT -6
All good now JR got the flywheel on thank you again for your advice
|
|
|
|
Post by o0ohakko0o on Sept 29, 2015 21:16:52 GMT -6
Ok JR this scared the shit out of me and our children she started up straight away BUT it took off at full revs had to chase after it and the kill switch did not turn it off also tried turning the key to off it just was reving like crazy and wheels were spinning full speed only way i got it to turn off was disconnect the plug going to the key ? also tried turning the key switch off and it didnt do anything and she was just at full revs and have a big burn out mark on our patio as it ran into the wall and tried to keep going  im shaking lol I didn't turn the choke off as I shit myself trying to turn it off Didn't think to turn it off I was panicking |
|
|
|
Post by JR on Sept 30, 2015 5:58:02 GMT -6
LOL calm down so it would seem at full rev you first need to adjust the throttle cable to make it idle and also put her up on some blocks with the wheels off the ground until we work the bugs out. You could even pull the chain off for safety?
Now we got to review our wiring. The key switch should have four wires hooked up:
Red = 12Vdc from battery
Black = 12Vdc with the key on
Green = Ground
Black/white = kill wire to the CDI.
So now we got to do a test because either we got a wire wrong on the key switch......or the key switch is bad? Now I'm certain the RED and BLACK wires are right because the solenoid wouldn't kick in if they weren't?
So here's the rest we need to do with your test light. Turn the KEY SWITCH on. Unplug the CDI and put one lead of it on the BLACK/WHITE wire. Put the other test light lead on the positive battery terminal. The light should NOT be on. With the leads hooked up as I stated turn the KEY SWITCH off. The test light should come on.
If not then get back to me and let's see what is going on. Did you try the handlebar engine kill switch?
|
|
|
|
Post by o0ohakko0o on Sept 30, 2015 11:16:54 GMT -6
Lol I bet you had a picture in your head of exactly what happened to us yesterday it made me shakey
I thought I had the throttle cable correct the buckle
Can't tighten anymore the thumb throttle feels fine I'll check it out again must be in the carby side the petcock etc
|
|
|
|
Post by JR on Sept 30, 2015 17:10:51 GMT -6
I do have to say I did have a funny thought but am glad no one got hurt and also that it started! So now fix it where no matter what it can't run off on you until you get the throttle/idle worked out. Also we got to make sure the kill function is working. Didn't take a close look at this carb but like most carbs I'm sure it has a idle screw to adjust?
|
|
|
|
Post by o0ohakko0o on Sept 30, 2015 17:35:18 GMT -6
Yes JR it sure does have idle and mixture screws I have not touched those at all left them at factory setting
|
|
|
|
Post by o0ohakko0o on Sept 30, 2015 20:31:26 GMT -6
I did what you asked me to do with the test light and what should happen does happen test light wire on the black/white wire (cdi unplugged) other test light wire on positive with key on and test light does not light up . Same procedure with key off and test light lights up I did try to turn off the handlebar kill switch but it kept Revving like crazy also the break light switch was on also as in both brakes were on and she was doing burnouts when it ran into the wall lol scary stuff also my new carby both sides   |
|
|
|
Post by JR on Oct 1, 2015 4:36:47 GMT -6
OK then the only answer for it not cutting off when turning the key switch off is the BLACK/WHITE wire is on the wrong pin on the CDI. Remember when we turn the key off we are grounding out the CDI by sending ground (Negative) from the battery through the GREEN to the key switch through the BLACK/WHITE wire to the CDI when the key is in the OFF position. Since you did this test we now know we are sending ground (Negative) to the CDI with the key OFF.
Let's also test the handlebar engine on/off switch and it's easy. Again with the CDI unplugged turn the key switch ON and leave it that way. Put one test light lead on the BLACK/White wire on the CDI plug. Put the other test light lead on the positive side of the battery. Then turn the engine ON/OFF switch to the OFF position, if it is wired correctly the test light should come ON with the switch in the OFF position.
Now if this test works as it should then I need a good detailed picture of the CDI with it plugged up so I can see the location of each wire that is plugged into it. This can be the only answer since we know that the key switch is working correctly and I'm betting the engine ON/OFF switch works correctly too.
As far as your carb I've not dealt with these kinds of carbs? I see no idle adjustment screw so we are going to have to find some info on how to idle it down. I'm sure it is a throttle cable linkage type adjustment to idle it down.
JR
|
|
|
|
Post by o0ohakko0o on Oct 1, 2015 22:04:16 GMT -6
Hi there JR the test was correct all worked as suppose to also here is my CDI  |
|
