How to get 225-Lbs, rolling. By crazedfox (Read 2,200 times)

[alleyoop]

There are some that their driving license privileges have been taken away for whatever reason and cannot ride anything but a 50 which do not require the cost of registration and insurance and license. But that does not apply to all the states. Here in Illinois even if it is a MOPED you need to have a drivers license, register it with plates and insurance the only thing you do not have to do is take the driving test and written test since you already have a drivers license.
Alleyoop

[scot]

yes while I thought was the case in NH ,there are a lot of states now changed the law an 2 years ago nh changed to law one needs licence an plate insurance ,for anything with motor ,an I hear a lot of states are buying into that now ,its probley got to do with ,I don't know how to tell you how to get any more speed then to get a bigger moped ,hear it cannot be more 1,5hp to so if they wanted to force those with more hp to get an endorcement they could but my guess is they don't have the time

[crazedfox]

Hell, insurance isn't going to be cheap for me until I ether take a safety course, ($150-min.) or
been riding for more than 2-years on a motorcycle approved license.

Til' then My coverage will cost me $35-45 a month. *ouch*
----------------------------------------------------

Well now I had some seat time & couple tanks of fuel to get some things figured out.
It looks as I could use some heavier rollers.

My current stock rollers weigh in at 5-Grams.
I got a 1500rpm torque spring & 1500rpm clutch springs installed.

Got great take off with no belt slipping or clutch vibration anymore.
Now top speed isn't what it could be, it's struggling a little.
Ergo need heavier rollers to level the rpm field.

So now the Q; is what weights should I try?
Do I need 6Gm, 8Gm, or 12Gm? Donno'.

All I need is to get is anther 3-5Mph top speed out it.
& I just don't have money to wast on purchasing a bunch of rollers that I won't be using after everything is tuned in.
_

[alleyoop]

Its a 50cc so no heavier than 8gram. But remember the heavier you go with the weights you also loose RPMS 500-600 per gram. So if you go to heavy it will be sluggish starting off and mid-range. With that said most put in 4-6 gram weights depending on how they like to ride. Deciding on the weights is trial and error because it depends on your motors rpms and how strong it is. But in your case since you have 5grams in there you can try 6-7 gram weights and see which one you like and gets you closer to what you want.

Also if you get 6 and 7 gram weights you can mix them 3 6s and 3 7s for a combo of 6.5 or 3 5s and 3 6s for a combo of 5.5. Half grams make a big difference as well.
Alleyoop

[crazedfox]

Thanks Ally, that's exactly what I need to know.
_

[crazedfox]

Ok, recived my 6 & 7 Gram rollers in.
& dropped in the 7's.

Made a sharpie mark on the variator all the way to the rolled edge.
Went for 9-mi round trip, hills flats, all that jazz.

From what I can say, looks to be about a 3Mph gain in the straights, & keeping my take offs the same.

Now the mark is about an 1/8 of an inch thick.
& I'm running a stock 669-18-30 belt.

Is this the MAX I can get with a stock variator, & 7gm rollers?
_

[alleyoop]

That is about it BUD the edges of the Pulleys are curved to much and the belts never seem to reach that last 1/8 on the Variators. The only thing now is to keep the belt up there and you need more rpms to get more speed or put in taller gears or upgrade the motor.
Alleyoop

[alleyoop]

Yea the 2ts can crank out some RPMS they make their power at high rpms and are meant to run at high rpms. So what does high rpms get you, well well you guessed it turns the Variator a lot faster which in turn turns your rear clutch pulley faster there go more speed
Alleyoop

[crazedfox]

Apr 26, 2014 18:36:27 GMT -6 alleyoop said:

That is about it BUD the edges of the Pulleys are curved to much and the belts never seem to reach that last 1/8 on the Variators. The only thing now is to keep the belt up there and you need more rpms to get more speed or put in taller gears or upgrade the motor.
Alleyoop

Good to know.
I just like to know how the other scoot (yellow) I got running is getting a better 3-Mph speed on my red one.

Even when I match the rider's weight between them.
The yellow scoot still got speed on my red one.

As what I know of the yellow scoot has:
Stock-
Variator,
with 5-gram rollers (verified),
Belt 669-18-30 (new installed by me.)
Clutch springs,
worn clutch shoes ( otherwise noisy & intact),
Torque spring.

The ing-coil is a Red grade "hot" coil.
installed it to make sure it was getting hot spark &
just didn't put the stock back in.

As for the tranz gears I haven't tried to look in there give them a tooth count.
So best guess is there stock as well.

Just like what I can say about the whole of this scoot.
It was all stock when it came into my possession.
Except where noted, it's still stock.

So why is the yellow scoot getting better speed, & hill climbing than my red scoot?
Is my clutch slipping, stock coil too cold?

It's a little degrading/funny when one' s spouse has to throddle back to stay with ya'.
_

[crazedfox]

Just thought of something to add.
Could it be that I just need to raise my accl-needle 1-notch?
To get more fuel.

[alleyoop]

Well not all motors put out the same horsepower one can have less compression than the other so you really cannot compare even 2 identical scooters let alone 2 different ones. And as you say one can have different size gears in it also many things can slow a scoot down, worn bearings, different panels catching more wind than the other etc.. 3 mph difference is really not bad at all.

Also what you said if you raised the needle on one it may have needed more fuel and yes that would make it run better.
Alleyoop

[crazedfox]

Yeah, figure.
It's just that the Yellow one is the same as my Red.
The only diff is the yellow is a 2010,
& the Red is a 2013.

There both Peace-Sports with 49.5cc engines,
matched tire pressure, tire size, rider weight.
Almost twins by measure.

Perhaps there is some kind of loss somewhere in or on the Red one.

Maybe if I loosen the rocker/valve adjustments a scouch?
Red's running a tighter clearance (0.0015-inch.) than the Yellow's ( 0.0025-inch) to give me better MPG. ( Red's averaging 100-Mpg so far.)

So may trade Mpg for power?
-
P.S.
I will sit for 10-20 min. each valve, getting my valve clearances "dead-exact".
I'm picky that way.

[crazedfox]

Well, been running happily for awhile now.
 Things come'n'go, but milage is good. (average around 100-mpg.)

Having to keep tight eye on oil & tire pressure.
Other than that, it's good riding time.
----

But I'm wanting to get about another 5-mph more from my scoot for as cost efficiently as possible.

Will a 47mm-bore piston+cylinder kit
(aka-70/80cc kit.)
 nothing else, be installed & work with only tuning to current (18mm) carb?
-
Or should I save up & do a BIG complete kit?
(Head, Cyl, Cam, Intake-manifold, 20mm-Carb.)

Maybe a kit like this?:
 .scootertronics.com/gy670cc1.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">.scootertronics.com/gy670cc1.html

[alleyoop]

If you get yourself a tach that just wraps around the coil wire I would bet the one that climbs hills better is cranking out higher rpms than the RED one. Reason I say this, is it takes RPMS to get a 50cc to climb hills at anywhere from 20-25 mph.
I consider a tach a must to be able to tune a motor and cvt and carb to get the most out of them. Without a tach you are depending on your hearing and feel and sometimes your brain plays tricks on you and you think it is doing something better or worse than it really is.
Alleyoop
.trailtech.net/digital-gauges/tto/tach-hour" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">.trailtech.net/digital-gauges/tto/tach-hour
Get this Tach they are accurate and fast to respond, the cheapers ones are delayed in registering.

[crazedfox]

Huh?