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Post by ellpee on Jan 28, 2014 12:03:09 GMT -6
Hello, thanks for reply, pardon my language but I'm Italian and I'm helping with the translator google, in italian language spark plug is said "candela". It could be a problem while you switch to the side stand? Thanks Yes, had not thought of that, since neither of my scooters has a side stand switch. But it could indeed be a problem with the kill switch or the side stand switch, which is basically a second kill switch as I understand it.
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Post by fflintstone on Jan 28, 2014 17:22:01 GMT -6
The kill switch on the right side of the handlebars by the grip is a possible cause for failure to start--it could be corroded and dirty to the point that it don't make contact--also,it could just be turned off,accidently--I did that once,I stopped to chat with a friend at his bike shop and didn't get off the scoot but just shut it off and then leaned over the handlebars with my arms on the top of the bars and accidently pushed the switch in--and didn't notice it--so when it was time to crank up and leave,it wouldn't start--my friend ,a bike mechanic,said ,it looks like your battery is dead or you leaned up on the kill switch--it was kinda embarrassing but a relief to get it started and leave and put my red face in the wind--heh--happy trails,fflintstone
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Post by scot on Jan 29, 2014 12:52:37 GMT -6
I had hear that for some reason should turn off kill switch as well as the 2 sounding of the remote alarm ,if one does not its pulling power from the battery ,so I guess I will try to make sure out is slide off right . slide left on is in is on with my 2013 ,I guess if I get in habbit of using killswitch before takeing out the keys then should be safe an if I used the remote to start is 2 unlock clicks as well
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Post by ellpee on Jan 29, 2014 14:44:38 GMT -6
Scot, you know we love ya, but that post is major confusing. What? You're really not explaining yourself in a way anybody (or at least I) can respond to in any helpful way. GUESSING at your meaning, yes, I've read opinions here that shutting down a scooter via the kill switch is better than just via the ignition key. Hasn't been a problem for me yet, but advice noted and will help me know where to start looking if I have problems in future. Also, on my 2011 Roketa putting the key in the fourth (alarm) position does indeed draw a little juice, and I have very little to spare. In addition, the electronics of that whole keyfob/alarm/anti-theft thing produces some odd results as far as starting the scooter the normal way, so for the most part I just avoid using it altogether.
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Post by fflintstone on Jan 29, 2014 16:01:05 GMT -6
Scot, you know we love ya, but that post is major confusing. What? You're really not explaining yourself in a way anybody (or at least I) can respond to in any helpful way. GUESSING at your meaning, yes, I've read opinions here that shutting down a scooter via the kill switch is better than just via the ignition key. Hasn't been a problem for me yet, but advice noted and will help me know where to start looking if I have problems in future. Also, on my 2011 Roketa putting the key in the fourth (alarm) position does indeed draw a little juice, and I have very little to spare. In addition, the electronics of that whole keyfob/alarm/anti-theft thing produces some odd results as far as starting the scooter the normal way, so for the most part I just avoid using it altogether. Oh yeh--do not use the key fob to start and shutdown,it can cause the whole thing to go haywire unless you understand the sequence of key to fob ratio turning on and turning off,plus running with the key out--very confusing --I am sure
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Post by ellpee on Jan 29, 2014 22:24:45 GMT -6
Scot, you know we love ya, but that post is major confusing. What? You're really not explaining yourself in a way anybody (or at least I) can respond to in any helpful way. GUESSING at your meaning, yes, I've read opinions here that shutting down a scooter via the kill switch is better than just via the ignition key. Hasn't been a problem for me yet, but advice noted and will help me know where to start looking if I have problems in future. Also, on my 2011 Roketa putting the key in the fourth (alarm) position does indeed draw a little juice, and I have very little to spare. In addition, the electronics of that whole keyfob/alarm/anti-theft thing produces some odd results as far as starting the scooter the normal way, so for the most part I just avoid using it altogether. Oh yeh--do not use the key fob to start and shutdown,it can cause the whole thing to go haywire unless you understand the sequence of key to fob ratio turning on and turning off,plus running with the key out--very confusing --I am sure True dat. More than once I've hit the red button when pulling the keys out of my pocket, whereupon the "WHOOP! WHOOP! WHOOP!" stuff starts. I'd leave the fob at home except that early on I had the experience where that was the only way I could get the starter to crank. "Anti-theft system" sounds great in the ads, but I could do without it.
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Post by miky6719 on Jan 30, 2014 2:17:23 GMT -6
On my 2011 Roketa, which I think is pretty much a clone of your scooter, I have an NGK DPR7EA, and it takes an 18mm socket to remove it. (My scooter has the vertical, 244cc, Honda-clone engine; not sure if the horizontal, 257cc, Linhai engine has the same plug.) Ok thanks for information i do it, but the scooter don't start, i have Pull the spark plug, inspect it, then place it on a good ground source and turn the engine over and now i see a good spark but the engine don't go. Which is the next step to found the problem? Thanks at all
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Post by ellpee on Jan 30, 2014 10:25:07 GMT -6
If you got a good, strong, blue spark then all those electrical possibilities pretty much go away. Next in line as far as I know would be fuel issues. For that nice strong spark to do anything you have to have the right fuel mixture coming through the carburetor into the cylinder. Two ways I know of that that can be your problem: either fuel is not getting to the cylinder (problem with the fuel pump or the carburetor) or the air/fuel mix getting to the cylinder is wrong (too much air or too much fuel, either way most likely a carburetor problem). I hope others will chime in here on how to test for that, but the first thing I would do, with the "candela" removed, is crank the starter for a good 10-15 seconds and see if you can see or smell gas in the cylinder, via the spark plug hole. You might even be able, after cranking, to insert a long cotton swab into the spark plug hole and see if the cotton comes out soaked with gas.
Please, gurus, chime in here -- I'm at the outer limits of my knowledge.
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Post by fflintstone on Jan 30, 2014 11:59:22 GMT -6
If you got a good, strong, blue spark then all those electrical possibilities pretty much go away. Next in line as far as I know would be fuel issues. For that nice strong spark to do anything you have to have the right fuel mixture coming through the carburetor into the cylinder. Two ways I know of that that can be your problem: either fuel is not getting to the cylinder (problem with the fuel pump or the carburetor) or the air/fuel mix getting to the cylinder is wrong (too much air or too much fuel, either way most likely a carburetor problem). I hope others will chime in here on how to test for that, but the first thing I would do, with the "candela" removed, is crank the starter for a good 10-15 seconds and see if you can see or smell gas in the cylinder, via the spark plug hole. You might even be able, after cranking, to insert a long cotton swab into the spark plug hole and see if the cotton comes out soaked with gas. Please, gurus, chime in here -- I'm at the outer limits of my knowledge. I haven't earned a guru badge yet ,but I have a little experience with stubborn scooters,hard to start after a long winter--I have 2 scoots,same engine,250 B,and after sitting up for a month or so,both are a little hesitant to start--one will start after maybe 8 or 10 tries,and the other one will not start after 20 tries--so I tried starting fluid---some scoot doctors say don't use starting fluid on small engines but I say it is ok if it is a 4 cycle engine---anyhow,the way I put the starting fluid in the engine is through the little rubber hose with the stopper in it ,hanging down on the left side of the back wheel,by the shock bolt--I spray a generous dose up that hose(use the little straw and poke it up as far as you can)...the hard to start scoot then is able to start easier---another thought,if you find it hard to start,the starter will eventually wear out after all that grinding--another reason to find a quick fix for starting--just my fix for that problem--the spray goes up into the air filter and it is foam,so you might want to look at this filter after a time---my filter was ok,but had some dirt in it---good luck,fflintstone---( hope this is not too wordy for you,scot) just joking-hehe,happy trails,fflintstone
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Post by miky6719 on Jan 31, 2014 3:46:26 GMT -6
Ok, i try to smell gas in the cylinder, via the spark plug hole and there is. I have a questions, if the brake lever is pulled or the right side stand is lowered, the candle gets the spark or not? (this kill switch is normal open or normal closed?) Thanks
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Post by ellpee on Jan 31, 2014 9:19:23 GMT -6
OK, so gas is flowing, therefore fuel pump and carburetor jets are working. Mixture could be too rich, too much gas/not enough air; maybe adjustment needed to carburetor, maybe air flow into the carburetor via the air filter box is somehow obstructed. Those things occur to me, others may have additional thoughts.
If you are getting spark the kill switch is in the OPEN position; closing that switch shuts off the electricity to the ignition system. Same for the switch on the side stand, if you have one. It is OPEN with the stand up, CLOSED with the stand down, as far as I know. (My two-wheel scooter has a side stand, but no switch associated with it.) There is no "normal" position for those switches; you set them whichever way you want them, the kill switch by using the button, the side stand switch by lowering the stand. But again: if you're getting a good strong spark, the kill switch(es) are not your problem.
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Post by miky6719 on Feb 5, 2014 6:38:05 GMT -6
Thanks for reply so the next step i will go control if to the air filter box is somehow obstructed. Is it is difficult to remove?
Bye
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Post by ellpee on Feb 5, 2014 9:06:00 GMT -6
Not too bad on my 2011 Roketa, 2-3 screws readily accessible from the left side, no need to remove any plastic panels. The only time I ever took mine off I found that the metal bracket that is supposed to hold the filter element in the proper position was broken off. I fixed that, but it was NOT blocking the air flow, only created a situation where the air going into the engine was not being filtered. I've read posts here, though, where people found rainwater had collected in the filter housing, or other situations that meant less air was reaching the carburetor. A fairly easy thing to check, and if all is good you've pretty much narrowed things down to the carburetor settings, I believe.
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Post by miky6719 on Feb 18, 2014 6:35:24 GMT -6
Ok, i removed the filter box but it is ok, so the problem is another. I think there is an electrical problem, false contact, but do not know where it can be.
Thanks
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Post by scot on Feb 18, 2014 9:14:02 GMT -6
have you tried I may be missing something a new plug ,an there are many part #s for the same plug,i guess you got into more then just wich spark plug for the jonway 250 244cc
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