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Post by richardthescooter3 on Feb 12, 2013 17:25:50 GMT -6
After making adjustments to my scoot, Finally got scoot out Tuesday going to work. got scoot not shutting off, running great, but my idle is rough, like its pulsating at stops, what could this be now, I adjusted the a/f ratio screw counter clockwise 1/2 turn plus a 1/4, that made it run crappy and Monday shut off one time, so Monday night turn clockwise 1/2 turn in, ran great but idle not totally right, but its not shutting off and its running great, until stop at lights. I guess my question is should I turn a/f another 1/4 turn in? Attachments:
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Post by terrilee on Feb 12, 2013 18:32:42 GMT -6
i was always told, that , that is a symptom of valves needing adjusting
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Post by richardthescooter3 on Feb 12, 2013 20:36:11 GMT -6
Hi terrilee, I just made adjustment about 2 weeks ago, been having trouble with cold starts.
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Post by JR on Feb 12, 2013 21:40:59 GMT -6
Richard I've found that going to a notch hotter plug has helped me with cold starts.
JR
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Post by richardthescooter3 on Feb 13, 2013 10:05:31 GMT -6
JR, right now I'm using NGK R DR8EA spark plug, I'm going to buy the NGK Iridium DR8EIX. (Thanks)
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Post by JR on Feb 13, 2013 14:24:56 GMT -6
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Post by ellpee on Feb 13, 2013 17:43:00 GMT -6
This whole spark plug thing is bizarre. My Roketa came with a DPR7EA-9 (manual said G7HSA, which I couldn't even find on line), and I just replaced it with a new DPR7EA-9 and gapped it to .028"/0.7mm, per manual. (Actually it was gapped that way out of the box.) Now I see, looking at the chart above, that the -9 means it should be gapped at .036"/0.9mm. WTH??? Should it have the wider gap? If yes and I leave it at 0.9 per manual, what effect will that have on operation?
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Post by JR on Feb 13, 2013 18:49:45 GMT -6
This whole spark plug thing is bizarre. My Roketa came with a DPR7EA-9 (manual said G7HSA, which I couldn't even find on line), and I just replaced it with a new DPR7EA-9 and gapped it to .028"/0.7mm, per manual. (Actually it was gapped that way out of the box.) Now I see, looking at the chart above, that the -9 means it should be gapped at .036"/0.9mm. WTH??? Should it have the wider gap? If yes and I leave it at 0.9 per manual, what effect will that have on operation? Sounds like they sent you a generic manual for a 150GY-6 engine and the Chinese do that often, print one manual for all. Yep that's the Chinese. The plug you mentioned is for a Gy-6 engine. Throw away that manual the guide I posted is for the NGK plugs themselves and I can assure you they know what they're saying. Plugs with too big of a gap don't run right and will leave it lean also. The plug that was in your scooter was a good plug and the "R" means resistor for engine noise. I gap mine at 0.32 and it runs like a champ. JR |
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Post by ellpee on Feb 13, 2013 22:28:49 GMT -6
Thanks for your reply, JR. Just noticed I mistyped in my last post, should have read "...If yes and I leave it at *****0.7***** per manual, what effect will that have on operation? ..."
So if I understand you right, that mysterious G7HSA that I couldn't even find on the Internet is for the Gy-6 150cc engine, and the DPR7EA-9 I have now is a good plug to go with. As to the gap, leave it at 0.7 as my Chinglish manual says and don't gap it up to 0.9 per NGK's chart or it might run lean? I did take it out for a test run this afternoon and it ran just fine as far as I could tell. On the other hand, the original plug that I replaced, also a DPR7EA-9, had a fair bit of soot on it after only 200 miles; maybe that's telling me I DO need a bigger gap to make it run a little leaner? Getting the plug in and out is a bit of a knucklebuster, so I don't want to experiment more than necessary.
BTW, I asked this elsewhere but will ask you too: how tight do plugs need to be? I don't have a torque wrench, so I ratcheted it down to where I could just feel it starting to get tight, then gave it about 1/2-3/4 turn more. As I said, it seemed to run well enough after that, but if it needs to be tighter, I'll do that before my next run.
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Post by alleyoop on Feb 14, 2013 1:42:26 GMT -6
The way you tighten it down is good not to much otherwise it will strip the head.
The idea is to tighen it down nice and easy and you will feel when it is about to squeese the hollow metal washer. Then give it the 1/2 turn or so to SQUEEZE the hollow washer.
But all this also can be also caused by the Fuel Mixture being just a little to fat, you can give the Fuel Mixture a half turn clockwise to lean it out.
Alleyoop
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Post by richardthescooter3 on Feb 14, 2013 8:42:11 GMT -6
Thanks JR, that's the plug I'll get  |
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Post by richardthescooter3 on Feb 15, 2013 9:18:26 GMT -6
 JR, Went with your suggestion  the NGK R DR7EA works great, went out this morning and she fires first crank  (Thanks)
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Post by JR on Feb 16, 2013 8:13:54 GMT -6
You're welcome.
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Post by JR on Feb 16, 2013 8:17:20 GMT -6
Thanks for your reply, JR. Just noticed I mistyped in my last post, should have read "...If yes and I leave it at *****0.7***** per manual, what effect will that have on operation? ..." So if I understand you right, that mysterious G7HSA that I couldn't even find on the Internet is for the Gy-6 150cc engine, and the DPR7EA-9 I have now is a good plug to go with. As to the gap, leave it at 0.7 as my Chinglish manual says and don't gap it up to 0.9 per NGK's chart or it might run lean? I did take it out for a test run this afternoon and it ran just fine as far as I could tell. On the other hand, the original plug that I replaced, also a DPR7EA-9, had a fair bit of soot on it after only 200 miles; maybe that's telling me I DO need a bigger gap to make it run a little leaner? Getting the plug in and out is a bit of a knucklebuster, so I don't want to experiment more than necessary. BTW, I asked this elsewhere but will ask you too: how tight do plugs need to be? I don't have a torque wrench, so I ratcheted it down to where I could just feel it starting to get tight, then gave it about 1/2-3/4 turn more. As I said, it seemed to run well enough after that, but if it needs to be tighter, I'll do that before my next run. That is correct on the plug, again we have lots of better even generic manuals for a 250 and lots of guys here that know answers for this scooter by heart. On the plug one over time just gets the feel of what feels good on tightness. With a new plug one can snug it good, crank the engine and run it some so it gets good and hot, let it cool and then check the plug again to make sure it feels good. But if you want to be specific then go to the Yamaha manual site here and look at this manual: Yamaha YP250 Majesty Service Manual Your engine is a copy of this and gap for the plug is 0.6~0.7mm and torque is at 18Nm. JR |
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..BAD TO THE BONE..