Jonway Died on Freeway :O By larsliederhausen (Read 2,721 times)

[whid]

Just auto zone.... but like Alleyoop's link.. there are so many capacities, shapes, sizes, and a lot with the same dia. nipples.
So wasn't sure if there is a certain range to stay in or if it acts like a capacitor in a way... More volume of fuel ready to go.

[larsliederhausen]

Latest update, I was riding home from work today and about 2 miles from my hause I came to a red light. Scooter died. I tried multiple times to start and no luck. I pulled it into a circle k and tried few more times, nothing. I waited about 20 mins, tried multiple times then if finally came back on and stayed on. I was riding between 50-60mph takin it easy and blasted thing still died on me. This is really aggravating. Contrary to what the dealer mech told me yesterday Im stripping the bike down, changing fuel filter, checking all the vacuum and fuel lines, all the plugins to cdi and everywhere else, doing the valve adjustment while I'm at it.

The problem with my bike dying is always in the afternoon. it has given me problems when i first start it and it has given me problems while riding after motor is warmed up. Im beginning to think its allergic to sunlight lol. After i complete all the suggestions on this post and before I put this back together...Does anyone have any other idea (i dont care how random or off the wall it is) what else it could be so I can address it before i put this puzzlebox back together?

Thank you,

[JR]

You are now on the right track, the PDI, don't take anything for granted and replacing all the Chinese junk will make this scooter a long lived one. Dying at stop signs and hard to start, classic valve adjustment needed symptoms.

Also be sure to check the wiring on eh CDI especially the black 12Vdc feed wire. If it loses connection going down the highway then instant motor dying, no voltage = no spark.

Check the wiring harness especially at all splcies for good connection and good insuslation. The gray/white or black/white engine kill wire to the CDI can ground out and move around on you and cause dead engine when grounded.

JR

[whid]

Amen to the PDI. In my introduction in the registration thread, I stated that I assumed the dealer(or distributor) did this. It was not a order delivered to my home in a crate. Boy was I wrong. I just hit 100 miles in a week and half. I'm now counting the body screws that have vibrated out... Rattles and vibs are worse every day. Don't even wanna think what's going on under the body right now. just gotta make it to the weekend and I'm striping her. Had to do the lube tho.... The rest is fixable, but didn't want to cause permanent damage.

[larsliederhausen]

Latest update, today I changed the fuel filter. Then adjusted the valves using that great video JR provides. Even after adjusting I'd let the motor run and within about 5 mins it died again, Redid the valve adjustment and again it was going to die then I noticed a rattling hose clamp jumpin around like it had its own party in there. I found my vaccuum line directly on top of carb was just about off all the way. I slipped it back down tightened the clamp and put the valves back where there were in the beginning. I let it run idle for 20 mins and it didnt die. Went and got gas then let it idle at my hause another 10 mins. No problem all is and should be good for now. Thank you all for your help.

[JR]

Good job and good riding! Don't be a stranger!

JR

[larsliederhausen]

This morning I went to fire up the scooter only to find it would start just to die right away...uggh round 2 lol. i figured yesterday when the valves were adjusted the motor was really warm, really hot more like. So, I adjusted the valves again with the motor cool and now its better. The bike is more responsive, and it starts faster. I let the bike get hot and at idle it was good, i let it cool an hour and it fired up again no issues. I tried it again 8 hours later....no problems starts up quick

i was going to dread having to take the rear body panel off again so I made a small modification I'd like to share. All i did was use a hack saw and made 2 slits to give better access to the valve adjustment process...here are my pics.

[larsliederhausen]

This saved time and provides a better view. I can close the flap and use the other piece to screw it down. simple and convenient

[alleyoop]

GREAT IDEA!! On some scoots people take a lot of stuff off to get at the top of the motor. You could even cut out almost the entire bucket bottom and get a piece of plexaglass cut it out to fit over the cut out and just use two screws to hold it down one on each end. And you will still be able to use it to carry stuff under the seat.
Alleyoop

[whid]

Nice Mod!!!! I'm breaking out my Dremel now. I've yet to reach the point of Valve adjusting... or anything really accept swapping fluids. It's still a baby... 157 miles since Thanks Giving weekend riding it every day to and from work, chores, etc.

But I have devoted major efforts to curing vibration. I am hoping that an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure!
Studying and studying this forum, seems 90% of issues are traced to something being loose, bad connection, hose not fully on, (your issue here) etc. etc. Gee.... wonder what causes that? And I wonder that about actual mechanical/Electrical failures... What % of those were caused by vibration.

I am obsessed with RC Helicopters and am on several forums just like this one devoted to them.
Started with cars, moved to boats, then airplanes... But I had no clue what I was stepping into when
I jumped to Heli's. I'm not talking the ones you see in the mall. I'm talking the ones that will KILL you
or a bystander with any type of failure or pilot error.

My point is.... you would not believe how vibration is addressed with regards to failure.
The mechanical servos that control the swash plate. To the electronics and the gyro.
Basically, on spool up if your Vib free, your in for a pretty good flight. In hover you look at the landing
gear among many other checks.
If you see the landing gear or the tail with the slightest bit of movement, it is just when, not if, a link in the chain IS going to FAIL. With due care, you can go crash free for many, many flights. And save your wallet lots and lots of pain. One light crash could cost $50-$150 in parts. A full impact.. ugggg. could be up to a grand on some birds.

So anyway, I believe it to be true that Vibration = Failure. The more you can eliminate, the better.
I have done absurd mods already that have knocked out a LOT of vibs on the scoot. It seems so much more solid when warming up or just running. Before, I could't see my bar ends. They were just a blur.
now, if you had ear-buds in listening to music and approached the scoot, Visually, you would not be able to tell it's running. Even with the trunk and glove box open.
But that dang latch on the trunk has got to go. Talk about having it own little party like your hose clamp.. LOL

If we meet up one day, I will show you some of these mods. But Love your Valve adj. access port!
Doing mine ASAP. Thanks for sharing that!

Alleyoop, I like that idea... It would be like the glass bottom boat tour...lol
It would be nice to release a few retaining clips around the circumference and just pull the whole bucket out for access.

[whid]

P.S. I know the fuel system is going to require more TLC. The degradation of the fuel line from the inside is only going to be cured by replacing them. The float for gauge indication I already see is useless. LOL And Valve stems and lighting and sliders and, and. hehe
I'm thinking to just velcro my Phone over the Speed-O on GPS app. LOL

I've checked it a few time at lower speeds (all I can do for now) and seems a bit off 5 mph in the 30-35 mph zone. Just wondering if the error will compound with speed or remain a constant in the calibration.
The Vulcan was easy. Just 10% off no matter the speed. AT 30 is was 3 off and 80 was 8 off. Bizarre.

[skyrider]

Mine reads three miles high at all speeds.

[larsliederhausen]

I hadn't considered all the problems vibrations will cause short and long term until you mentioned it. Every problem I've had including the possibility of the main fuse is a direct result of the jitters. On another post it was recommended to remove the glass fuse for a blade fuse to help w vibrations and immediately swap out all the chinese fuses that come with this thing. Ill be doing the fuses after armageddon, holidays and new year Yes I would like to see your mods and most likely i'll be doing the same thing. That latch does have its own party however I'm thinking if we could put some sort of foam gasket like what you see around car doors that might keep it tighter and waterproof? perhaps??? I hadn't considered the fuel hoses degrading from the inside out, my work is relocating me over by chase field to metrocenter so my miles will be far less which means I can take my scooter apart and not be rushed to put it back together I could just ride my mountain bike to work Then I'll replace these fuel and why not any other hose as well. Maybe put a checklist together that way when I decide to buy another I can just get these things done right away. While looking online at some accessories for the burgmans I found that you can get foglights for them. Has anyone added any foglights or additional lights in the front, or possible some led strands on the body. Personally I like bright lights and well,...the more the merrier If I do add lights what steps do I need to do to make sure it doesnt drain my battery?

Also, my radio has 1 station and its in spanish. i've always used the ipod feature but seriously how do you change the radio station, its starting to get on nerves lol

[whid]

LOL... that's how you can learn Spanish my friend...LMAO. Constant exposure... hehe.
There is an S and an R to the very right on your "STEREO". Believe the S is search.. Just push in for a sec and then let go... it will find the next station. I wanna say the R is to RETURN to the previous station, but like you... I've just plugged my MP3 player in.

Well I went a bit deeper on the trunk. Found that the top only comes in contact with the bottom in 2 spots really.... not along the rim. Under the top at the 2 top corners (when open), you will see what looks like FINS. That is what rests on the bottom. The quick fix is take the fuzzy side of some velcro,
cut to shape about the size of the fins and sicker on. Knocked out 90% of the drum line that was sitting behind me. Then, if you really want to address this. Use the hook side of the velcro and when you peel that back off, put thin piece of rubber (thin washer, slice of welcome mat from the front door) Even quieter.
Well that didn't fix the latch party. So decided to totally remove the trunk
a mount it much better.
First, there are not rubber washers to isolate the vib thru the bolts. As a matter of fact, its metal to metal all the way up from the metal handgrab/load carrier on the scoot. To the rectangle mount between that and the trunk itself. and the bolt go through all 3 with nothing between them. Now I did have a rubber bar on the very bottom that the last nut went on. But that's after the fact. Vib is being transferred from the metal handgrab, straight up. I put rubber grommets in the trunk holes to isolate from the bolts. And rubber of some sort between all the layers. be it a washer or strip of thin rubber. Think of it as building a cheeseburger and putting all the cheese on top of the bottom bun and building the burger upward.... not good. The cheese is much better between each patty and up so it can melt down on the patty... LMAO With freshly diced Ghost pepper... Unbeatable! ouch!

It does need some water/weather proofing. And your right. Some type of weather stripping or foam like you mention would do the trick. I made my
discoveries by first using the watch the closing of the trunk to the last slit i could still peer through. Eventually filled the trunk with an array of led flashlights. when closed and latched. You could see the light around 75% of the lip looking upward between the meeting of top and bottom.

Not sure how your mirrors are since we have the same exact scoot... but I did a great mod that solved that. You can see it under my silicone vs. silicone adhesive post toward the bottom of the thread.

I bought white 24" strips to go in front along the edge to the radiator cave. They are screamin bright,
and with the angle of that edge, it may even light the road around my scoot. For others to see me, not so I can see.
And red pods or "cluster of 4" to go in the back somewhere for extra visibility.
I would like to add these in a fashion so that they will come on and go off with the ignition key vs. additional switch. I look forward to the responses.

[whid]

P.S. Still cracking up..... Armageddon and holiday with a new year to follow.... hehe
So there are years to come after Armageddon?
Wise choice. Just in case it really does happen, you didn't waste the little precious time left messing with the scoot.
Saw a great site that show the Mayan calendar actually ended last summer.... Aug. or so of 2011.
Mayans didn't have leap years... lol But I bet they had scoots tucked away somewhere. That's how they crushed their Grain and such...
Fill trunk half full of desired grain, idle for approx 1 hour, come back to fresh
flour or whatever they made bread with.... LOL