butchered wiring harness By rangerdaver91 (Read 18,584 times)

[rangerdaver91]

Any idea about the NANFANG ? its metal and the actual Variator cover mounting to the case. the yamaha is a plastic cover mounting with two screws into the metal one

[rangerdaver91]

I put the new coil on today , hooked it up , grounded the plug and cranked it over to check for spark . I thought I could just barely see a very weak spark , so while still grounded I put my finger across the gap touching both sides and tried it again. Yes it definitely had fire. just a tingle , and by no means knocked the shit out of me. My confidence was not very high. I put the plug in , hooked up the wire. Shot one small shot of starting fluid into the intake (carb was off) turned the key on , had a wire tie on the brake lever , bumped the starter button and I'll be damned if it didn't start right up. So I put the carb back on , pulled the gas tank , emptied and rinsed it with some clean gas , reinstalled and filled it with fresh gas/oil , hooked up all new hoses , primed the carb and filter , cranked her for just a little and again she fired up. Took it for a test ride down the alley. It actually ran pretty smooth , but didn't want to take throttle , the more I twisted the grip the more she bogged , so I rode it back to the house (100 yards) again it ran ok as long as I didn't give it more than just a little throttle. So I started adjusting the carb and had it revving lots better , but when I shut her down to an idle , she died and would not start again. I knew I had some carb issues but I did not believe that was why it would not start. So I pulled the the plug , again I touched and grounded it and cranked it over, I could just barely feel a tiny tingle. My brother came over and he retested every thing you had us check before. All checks were good. The kill button was acting kinda funny. I had to place the button in a certain position , which was just off of being fully detented and in what appeared to be the outside kill position in order to get it to spark earlier when I was testing the plug for spark , I thought it was just some of that crappy Chinese wiring and switches I have heard so much about. So we took it apart and had a look. Its a funky switch (3 way that slides back and forth with detents in each position). by the icons on the handlebar control cover , it looks like the outside 2 positions should be kill and the inside position should be run , but It is the opposite , maybe Chinese symbols are different than ours. My brother didn't fully understand the way the system works without tracing out the wires, and he wasn't up for all that tonight, and this part of the wiring was not touched by the dumb ass that chopped up the harness to start with. After reinstalling the kill switch , and making sure it would still tingle my finger , my brother checked the voltage at the spark plug wire , the needle barely moved. Talk about bummed out , holy crap what a let down. So any way I'm STUMPED again. JR , I need some of your guru magic that justbuggin2 was talking bout earlier in this thread lol. This thing is killing me.

[JR]

Jun 18, 2012 20:17:44 GMT -6 rangerdaver91 said:

Any idea about the NANFANG ? its metal and the actual Variator cover mounting to the case. the yamaha is a plastic cover mounting with two screws into the metal one

.yamaha-motor.co.jp/global/news/2004/05/13/china.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">.yamaha-motor.co.jp/global/news/2004/05/13/china.html

.comxport.com/paises/zhuzhou_nanfang_yamaha_motorcycle_co_ltd-china_export-eng-101893.php" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">.comxport.com/paises/zhuzhou_nanfang_yamaha_motorcycle_co_ltd-china_export-eng-101893.php

Tha company was bought out but when those guys at the Yamaha place tell you it's not a Yamaha tell them it's a Chinese Yamaha!

[rangerdaver91]

CDI time ? Which one should I get ?

[JR]

Ok some things need to be checked and for sure we are a lot better off at this point than a few days ago. Lets start with this funky kill switch.

The way a kill switch works is it simply gounds out the CDI which kills the power to the coil thus no spark at the spark plug. So when you engage the kill switch you are not cutting off power like one might think to the CDI but simply sending the negative side of the battery or grounding out the CDI or shorting it out.

So when the kill siwtch is in the engine run position it is open and not completing the circuit. IF this switch is not opening all the way it then could be grounding it out enough to make the CDI send weak voltage to the coil. When it died the last time this switch may have grounded out again.

Now the ignition key switch also does the same thing, in the on position it turns on the battery voltage to your accessories, horn, brakes, blinkers, etc and at the same time opens the kill funtion to the CDI. When you turn the key off the opposite occurs, it opens the battery feed circuit and closes the engine kill circuit to ground just like the engine kill switch on the handle bars, in fact they both tie into the red/white wire that hooks up to the orangfe wire on the CDI.

So here's a simple way to test it by eye and with the volt meter. Simply unhook the ornage wire on the CDI and let it hang free and not touch anything. Turn the key on and do your spark test again and see if it improves. If so then you know this switch is then going bad. Now remember if you start it with the orange wire disconnected the only way you can kill the engine is to cut off the gas, pull the spark plug wire, hook up the orange wire again and turn the key off or ground out the orange wire on the CDI.

Now if this doesn't make an improvement then the next thing to check is grounding. The new coil that you bolted up that also has the black wire going to the CDI, it's very important that the frame where this bolts up is clean and free of paint and rust along with the negative battery cable where it bolts to the frame. Proper grounding is a must.

Also the new coil, did it come pre-made with the spark plug end cap already on or did you put it on? Either way make sure it is getting a very good connection, you should be able to take it apart and inspect it.

Lastly the two wire plug that we knew plugged together from the stator to the CDI all along, make sure they are getting a good connection, bad or poor connectors are a killer.

If after all this you still have a weak spark then I'm going to think CDI.

JR

[rangerdaver91]

Ok I unhooked the orange wire and had no spark, not even a tingle when I put my finger on the plug. I took the coil off and sanded the paint down to bare clean metal. I then put it back on and reconnected the orange wire. yes it did spark ever so slightly, had to turn out the lights to see it, I did the touch with finger test, still just a tingle. I then unhooked the orange wire again and had nothing. So I reconnected it and got my little bitty spark back. Put the plug in hooked up the wire, I then shot a little starting fluid in it and nothing not even a pop. I guess there just ain't enough spark to ignite starting fluid. I also checked the plug wire and it looks good to me. And as far as I can tell the 2 wire connector has good contact.

[JR]

Ranger just for curiosity unhook the orange wire and hook it up to the coil feed wire which should be yellow/black. Leave the black/white unhooked and then turn it over and look for spark. The 2T CDI colors are all whacky sometimes.

On a typical GY-6 CDI black/white is always the kill wire but I've looked at at least 10 different 2T wiring diagrams and they nearly all show orange as the kill wire?

It won't hurt a thing to try and if this doen't do the trick since we know the stator is putting out like it should then with a new coil it's just got to be the CDI. Do go through all the connections and make sure they are good.

I'll wait for your results.

JR

[rangerdaver91]

Ok I did as you suggested above with the wires and had nothing, put it back as before and back to a very weak spark. Not enough to fire the engine.

[JR]

Well then that theory wasn't the answer so it seems you need a CDI for sure and let's find one.

JR

[JR]

OK you mentioned a no limit CDI so here is a nice deal because finding an exact replacement IMO isn't going top happen;

.ebay.com/itm/Performance-Racing-CDI-50cc-110cc-125cc-Dirt-Bike-ATV-Scooter-Moped-2-Stroke-/280851996263?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4164155e67&vxp=mtr" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">.ebay.com/itm/Performance-Racing-CDI-50cc-110cc-125cc-Dirt-Bike-ATV-Scooter-Moped-2-Stroke-/280851996263?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4164155e67&vxp=mtr

Also you might want to holler at Tvnacman here on this forum, he gives folks a good deal also.

Also there is one more thing to check especially since this harness was cut up and that's the engine ground. Does it have a jumper cable run from the frame where the negative battery cable connects to the engine anywhere? The engine must be grounded also.

This can contribute to a weal spark.

JR

[rangerdaver91]

There was not a ground from the engine to the frame , so I used a tiger paw on my grinder and took the paint down to clean metal and added a ground. But it had no effect on the weak spark. .

[rangerdaver91]

Can You please explain which wire will hook where on the new CDI ? I know by the pic that it only has 5 wires and the old one has 6 as does the stator. So once again I am going to need your expertise.

[rangerdaver91]

Here is the way I think they hook up.

CDI :________Stator :

RED/BLK ------ BLK/RED
RED/WHITE --- WHITE/RED
ORANGE ------ RED/WHITE
BLK/WHITE --- COIL +
BLK ----------- COIL ground

This still leaves the RED/WHITE wire from the CDI. I believe this to be the running lights ? And if it is , where will I hook it up at ?

[JR]

First of all I didn't reaIize that this CDI was 5 wire instead of 6 but I don't see why we can't make it work.

Also your thoughts above may be very well right but I've looked closely at the Vino wiring diagram and here is my thoughts?

CDI

Orange to coil = blk/yel
black to coil ground = black
black/white to red/white (going to kill switch}
red/black to black/red (stator)
red/white to white/green (stator)

This would leave the red/white from the stator and it may just need to be taped off? Also is it possible that you could send the seller a question and ask for a wiring diagram pin out of this CDI?

Also I have no idea of what that spring is for that you took pictures of?

[rangerdaver91]

Alright JR, you are the man. I wired it up like you said and it starts and runs. It ain't ride-able, it has a serious bog when I try to give it gas. I have taken the carb apart and cleaned it . it runs the best with the mixture screw almost all the way in, but still can only take a little throttle before it goes to bogging. We have tried it from seated to backed all the way out till it started dieing on us ,and still can't get it to smooth out and take throttle. Any ideas what to look at next ? I checked the auto choke and it does push the plunger and needle out after being hooked to 12 volts for a few minutes. Damn the bad luck. so once again I am begging help. And I want to thank you very kindly for all the time , effort and help you have been. I was completely lost without your guidance. Maybe with your help I can fix this problem also.