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Post by ellpee on Aug 22, 2015 19:39:22 GMT -6
This is not going to help much, I don't think, but what do you mean by "continuity"? If you connect any particular wire to ground via your multimeter, it either is or isn't going to show 12v. Or, if it's a ground wire, it may or may not show 12v depending on what's coming in the other side of the circuit. But with my limited electrical smarts, I'm not sure what you're saying when you say you are checking "continuity." Maybe JR or other followers of this thread get it more than I do ....
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Post by leakinoil on Aug 22, 2015 22:46:58 GMT -6
This is not going to help much, I don't think, but what do you mean by "continuity"? If you connect any particular wire to ground via your multimeter, it either is or isn't going to show 12v. Or, if it's a ground wire, it may or may not show 12v depending on what's coming in the other side of the circuit. But with my limited electrical smarts, I'm not sure what you're saying when you say you are checking "continuity." Maybe JR or other followers of this thread get it more than I do .... Sorry, I am a electrical novice as well and I could be using the wrong terminology, but I think I'm saying it correctly. I haven't even had the battery hooked up when doing the testing I'm not even looking fo voltage really yet I'm still just trying to follow wire so I can figure where all these connections go. What I mean by continuity is : I have my multimeter set to the lowest ohm setting, which on mine is 200, there is a 1 in the left hand side of the display which from my understanding means, infinity, or the circuit is open, there is no resistance, no continuity. And it should look like this:
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Post by leakinoil on Aug 22, 2015 23:18:45 GMT -6
Then if I touch the two leads together completing the circuit the multimeter will look like this: Showing resistance, or continuity between the two, that some where along the line they are connected. Example: If I have multimeter on designated setting and I connect either lead to (?3) which I've already figured to be ground wires, And the other lead to the bk/gr wire on (?8), Then I get: Means they are connected, which means the bk/gr wire is a ground wire. This is my understanding of continuity, someone PLEASE correct me if I'm wrong. Thanks
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Post by leakinoil on Aug 22, 2015 23:41:24 GMT -6
Some more stuff : if I Connect to the g/y wire on the spring activated brake, And to the g/y wire on (?8), Then I get, Which means those two female spade connectors (?8) on the handlebars with nowhere to go, have something to do with the brakes? Also if I connect to either the g/y wire on the spring brake or the one on (?8) and then to, orange-2, Then I get: On the multimeter. Which means those connectors (spring brake,(?8),orange-2) are all connected in the wiring harness. My problem with all this is: (A) the two spade connectors (?8) have nowhere to go (B) the g/y wire on, orange-2 Has NO continuity with ANY wire on ANY of the five female 2-pin connectors it's supposed to go to. I wish I knew how to post that little guy banging his head on the wall Thanks fellows
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Post by ellpee on Aug 23, 2015 7:55:55 GMT -6
Wow, you may not be an electrician, but you blew me away with all that! Don't think I've ever used the ohm setting on my multimeters. On my Roketa, the brake levers are indeed connected by two spade connectors, and (with key on) depressing either lever does two things: activates the brake lights and completes the circuit that allows the starter to crank when the starter button is pushed.Those two connectors plug into the wiring harnesses that feed all the various light/horn/etc. stuff in the left and right handlebar switch assemblies. Aside from those two spades, all the other wires terminate in a multiple plug (nine pins on the left side, don't know on the right). That may have nothing to do with what you're trying to figure out, just background info.
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Post by leakinoil on Aug 23, 2015 23:08:19 GMT -6
Thanks. I kinda figured that those spade connectors go to a hand activated brake somehow. Those 9-pin connectors I believe I know what you're talking about and I have tested and somewhat graphed the continuity between mostly everything but I have to make it more legible before I can post it. Onto some good news, I picked these up for $100 And the guy was too lazy to remove the rear tire from the axle so I got that too It seems to be 4" too short, but I think 2" spacers should solve that. Make some mounts, most likely change drive sprocket, a few other little things to make it fit and it should be a improvement on the stock one. Oh I forgot to say, this stuff came off a atv. Which brings me to: Brake caliper and master cylinder, was still on the axle. And on the handlebar part there is a relay or something with 2 male spade connectors. And a little "button" or whatever that the brake handle seems to contact when it's NOT being squeezed. I believe you are right about them going to the lights and starter like you said. I don't want to post more pics of it, this master cylinder is damaged, still usable, but damaged. Plus I've already found this: Which is more practical anyways. Does anybody have an idea if what to do with the two brake wires(?8)? Maybe a switch or something? Thanks
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Post by leakinoil on Aug 25, 2015 2:10:34 GMT -6
Ok, I've been trying to figure this out and I still feel like I got nothin. I'm going to post some of what I've found out hopefully it's not confusing, cause I'm confused. Hopefully you guys an see that. Ok these 2-pin conn. Are killin me. See the top four females, two of them have a purple and a pink wire, and two have purple and gray. None of the have continuity to the males of course and the only things they do have continuity with is, (?1) purple ground lookin wire, and a 6-pin conn. I had marked (?9). This connector has nothing to connect to? I've already found that orange-2, goes to the brakes. Orange-1, has a green wire with a blue stripe, and I haven't figured out where it goes yet. All other Male connectors have one green & one brown wire, and have continuity with the ground(?3). Pink-1, the only female connector that's different has one blue wire with a yellow stripe and a green wire. The blue/yellow wire goes to, pin 1 on the CDI. Nothing is more irritating than, really trying to do something and being unsuccessful. I'm starting to think that they don't go in any particular order. The v-3 diagram is actually very accurate but it helps me none for putting these connectors together. I think I've figured out what I need or how to start it from that diagram and checking continuity but I still wanna figure out the rest. Let me show you what's confusing about the 9-pin connectors. Those male and female connectors are a mirror image of each other, if you were to fold along the dotted line then the top left hand corner of purple one would be on the top right hand corner of blue-2 and so on. Ok blue-2 & blue-3 seem to be the same. I'm starting to think I don't need one them because I only got two males and I'm pretty sure blue one is supposed to be used. Thing that puzzles me is. No matter which way I plug them in not all of the wires will line up. Is this normal? That yellow/red wire in the middle on purple-2 goes to the starter solenoid and to the start switch. It's for the on pos. according to the v-3 diagram. Funny thing is there is continuity between the starter switch and the solenoid without the connectors hooked up. And All the wires I've been able to trace, I've done it with the connectors not hooked up. Oh also the red wire on purple-2 has continuity with the positive battery terminal, but the red wire on purple-1, does not. I kinda think purple-1 goes to blue-3. And purple-2 goes to blue-1. And I guess I just don't use blue-2, but I don't know. I'm also starting to think that the 6-pin connector might have went to the radio, but I doubt it. I got the ignition coil, spark plug and carb. Int. man. Today and I'm having a hard time keeping myself from trying to get it to crank. Lol I'm done for now. Thanks guys
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Post by leakinoil on Aug 28, 2015 7:56:23 GMT -6
Update: I have put on new parts: whole carburetor, ignition coil, spark plug and carb. intake manifold. Also changed oil and cvt gear oil. The way I hooked up the harness is: I guessed on the 2-pin connector, and the 9-pin connectors I hooked up how I said I thought they go in my last post. I think this is the correct way cause when I reverse the 9-pin connectors, I blew the fuse on the starter solenoid. The two spade connectors on the handlebars, don't seem to go to the starter, it's the rear brake. Without the rear brake depressed, the little relay I showed a pic if, just makes a clicking noise. Unfortunately, it won't start. When I hit the start button, it wants to start but it won't. It's not even choking any like it's trying to get fuel, which is the problem I believe. Does someone know how to start this thing without the fuel tank or pump hooked up? I'm hearing that it need vacuum to start but if course the pump is not hooked up. Is there a way fore to simulate vacuum, that's safe for the motor? Or maybe I need more fuel? I've only put in less than 1oz, through here: I've been putting in the little clear thing hooked to the hose. I think that goes to the fuel tank. And I think these Two lines on the right coming out the three way split are the vacuum lines. But I'm not sure. An anyone help with this? Thanks fellows
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Post by yuyu on Apr 18, 2024 11:35:41 GMT -6
Could you update the fashion moto electric diagram. The link is bugged
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Post by jmcarter1201 on Apr 27, 2024 16:16:08 GMT -6
Your link redirected me several times and finally to click on what I know is virus/ malware..never got to the wiring harness..
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