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Post by JR on Aug 18, 2015 10:17:57 GMT -6
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Post by leakinoil on Aug 18, 2015 21:08:10 GMT -6
Thanks JR. I'm just now getting a chance to compare the two. So far it looks like it might be a lil off, but trying to read one of these things to me is like.....trying to read a wiring diagram;) so I'll get back to you. Thank You |
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Post by leakinoil on Aug 19, 2015 3:05:53 GMT -6
Ok so the diagram labeled "fashion diagram" I could not quite relate it to what I have, I don't really understand it. The one labeled v-3 was a lot more easy for me to read and a lot of the wires were the same color and some weren't. I figured out what a couple things were that I didn't know. But I'm still at a loss as far as where all these connectors go. I changed out the fuses I had in there for the size ones on the diagram. I grounded (?3), (?1), the R/R, and the neg. bat. Term. To the go kart frame. Plugged in the brake lights. Hooked(?2) to the " little orange wire" on the brake lights. Connected purple-1 to blue-1. Then hooked up power. Then turned the key. And then.....   I was able to also honk the horn ( on accident). When I tried the blinker the flasher relay made a awful buzzing sound.? Other than that it's 4:00am and I didn't wanna mess with it anymore. Now hopefully I am figure out the rest. Thanks JR |
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Post by JR on Aug 19, 2015 5:42:52 GMT -6
You said this was off of a Qlink Commuter? A little history. The original scooter was made by Honda the CN250 Helix. Then came along the clone the CFMoto Fashion and then the cheaper but clone of the Fashion the Commuter.
CFMoto was the importer for Qlink a cheaper brand of scooter which actually ended up being a competitor of CfMoto. Problem is Qlink like a lot of Chinese scooters failed to produce any good manuals and/or diagrams. Thus people have had to rely on the CfMoto manual/diagrams for help.
You'll not find a perfect color coded diagram, you'll have to use the CfMoto diagrams to piece this thing together. Some basic electrical knowledge is going to be needed such as how to read and use a mult-meter to check wires. The Fashion diagram will probably match up as far as how things go but the colors will probably not match up well.
I would follow the diagram, start with the start circuit first, which involves hooking up the battery, starting relay and start button correctly. Once you get the engine to turn over you can start with other things which need to be run through the fuse box per item such as horn, blinkers, etc. IMO if you take one thing at a time and use the lay out of the diagrams you'll get it figured out more easily.
JR
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Post by leakinoil on Aug 19, 2015 13:07:30 GMT -6
Sorry. I Thought/think it was. The only decal on it when I got it was a circled Q, on the center of the handlebars. And even though I could not/still can't find a pic of a q-link scooter with circle blinker front and back, going off the look of the spedo, the style of scooter, engine size and the little circled Q, I just figured it was a commuter. I still would like to know what the scooter was,just for kicks, but I don't think it really matters anymore. So the "fashion" and the "v-3" diagram are to two different bikes? I was starting to think maybe the "fashion" diagram is the same as "v-3", but just gives you a close-up of the individual systems? I'm going to try following it more today. I have a multimeter but I am not proficient with it. I think the main thing I need to know to figure this out is how to test continuity, but I don't completely understand how. To make it start I need: the battery, starter relay/solenoid, the ignition, the R/R, the cdi, starter, the ignition coil? Or do not need all that? And the start switch should be on the handlebars? One thing I did figure out from the diagram is which wires to jump for the kickstand to be in the up position  Do you need to hold the brake to start one of these things? Sorry. I've never rode a motorcycle, scooter, atv. So I'm not familiar with a lot of this stuff. Thanks for all your help.  |
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Post by JR on Aug 19, 2015 17:46:03 GMT -6
The V3 uses the same engine. The diagrams will be similar. To start the engine you do need the CDI, Coil, battery, ignition switch, solenoid relay and yes the start button.
The R/R is part of the charging system and the engine will run without it as long as you have a charged battery.
JR
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Post by leakinoil on Aug 19, 2015 18:58:28 GMT -6
Ok got it. Hopefully I won't have to bug you anymore.! I'll be ordering a ignition coil tomorrow. I'll probably post a lil video of it starting online and post the link here if that's cool. Thanks Again
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Post by JR on Aug 20, 2015 6:11:38 GMT -6
leakinoil You are not in any way bugging me and please post as you go and we'll help in any way we can. JR
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Post by ellpee on Aug 20, 2015 7:10:08 GMT -6
In general yes, you need to hold down at least one of the brake levers to complete the starter circuit and allow the starter to crank when the start button is pushed. You could wire around that, but better not to, it's a safety thing. And you could put the starter button pretty much anywhere you like, but generally speaking it's built into one or the other of the handlebar switch clusters on scooters I've seen.
Main use I make of my multimeter is to check for presence of 12v, which is simple: set the multimeter to a DC voltage of at least 12v -- both of mine have a 20v setting -- and then touch one probe to ground and one to the wire you're checking. The reading will tell you what if any voltage is present. (If you get a negative reading just reverse the two probes; red should to to the wire, black to ground.) To get the general idea, you can just do this across the two poles of your battery; it should read slightly over 12v when fully charged.
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Post by leakinoil on Aug 20, 2015 10:45:54 GMT -6
leakinoil You are not in any way bugging me and please post as you go and we'll help in any way we can. JR Ok, great, I will do so. |
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Post by leakinoil on Aug 20, 2015 10:59:40 GMT -6
In general yes, you need to hold down at least one of the brake levers to complete the starter circuit and allow the starter to crank when the start button is pushed. You could wire around that, but better not to, it's a safety thing. And you could put the starter button pretty much anywhere you like, but generally speaking it's built into one or the other of the handlebar switch clusters on scooters I've seen. Main use I make of my multimeter is to check for presence of 12v, which is simple: set the multimeter to a DC voltage of at least 12v -- both of mine have a 20v setting -- and then touch one probe to ground and one to the wire you're checking. The reading will tell you what if any voltage is present. (If you get a negative reading just reverse the two probes; red should to to the wire, black to ground.) To get the general idea, you can just do this across the two poles of your battery; it should read slightly over 12v when fully charged. Yeah I figured as much, I hate to ask silly questions but I really wanted to know for sure. Yeah I don't think wiring around it is too good of a idea either. I'll probably make it a switch or put it on the brake pedal of the cart. I do actually know how to check voltage ac/dc, and how to check if a home outlet is wired/grounded correctly but that's about it, Until yesterday I figured out how to test continuity, and figured out that all the Male2-pin connectors are ground wires, both leads. And the female 2-pin connectors only one lead is ground. still working on it. Thank You |
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Post by ellpee on Aug 21, 2015 6:53:58 GMT -6
Until yesterday I figured out how to test continuity, and figured out that all the Male2-pin connectors are ground wires, both leads. And the female 2-pin connectors only one lead is ground. still working on it. Thank You That's actually odd. Two-pin male fits into two-pin female, so the polarity (live/ground) ought to match, I should think.  ? |
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Post by leakinoil on Aug 21, 2015 18:45:44 GMT -6
Until yesterday I figured out how to test continuity, and figured out that all the Male2-pin connectors are ground wires, both leads. And the female 2-pin connectors only one lead is ground. still working on it. Thank You That's actually odd. Two-pin male fits into two-pin female, so the polarity (live/ground) ought to match, I should think. ? Yes, that's what I thought. But since I know little about it I can only speculate. I've been busy past couple of days my son is about to start school, so I haven't had time to look more yet. But when I find out where the wire on females that had no connection with the ground goes, I'll post here. I just ordered a whole new carburetor, carburetor intake manifold, ignition coil and spark plug last night. Should all be here by the 28th. Then I just gotta get some oil and some antifreeze, and hook up the radiator and lines to it so I can let the motor run for five-ten min to see what's what. Before it's goes on the kart, which will take a little time cause I'm not rich, I'll probably replace also the water pump, oil pump, oil pump chain, cam chain, cam chain tensioner, and cam chain guides. Hopefully it doesn't need a top end rebuild or much in the cvt, because then for me at least it will be getting real close to not worth it $$$ wise. Any way I'll keep y'all updated. Thanks |
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Post by leakinoil on Aug 21, 2015 21:31:33 GMT -6
(?1)I have no idea. It's a purplish wire. Maybe a ground wire? (?2)I think may go to a little orange wire on the brake lights.  Little orange wire.  I have figured out that the "little orange wire" actually goes in the brake light plug. It got pulled from it somehow. Lol. |
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Post by leakinoil on Aug 22, 2015 14:22:55 GMT -6
Ok I've been checking continuity between wires. I have some updates to post. But I'm busy and I have to get it organized first. Most of the stuff I've figured out only confuses me more. Right now what I'm I'm trying to understand is why when I'm checking for continuity on some connections, when I complete the circuit between two wires, the 1 stays on the left side of the display and the numbers on the right go on like it has continuity but only for a SPLIT second. What does this mean if anything? Thanks
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