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Post by leakinoil on Oct 7, 2015 20:19:44 GMT -6
Update: Sorry gents, I know I said I would have it wired up shortly, but I've been trying to finish the "dash" first. Also I have little time to work with it, so I haven't even begun to wire it up yet But I'm pretty much done with the dash now so wiring it up shouldn't take too long. As for it running like a scalded dog, lol yeah it should be fairly fast, might hit 60mph once I get the gearing right, but I'm thinking more like a solid 50mph. which is pretty fast. Just to be clear, when I get her started, that's all it's gunna do, is start and RUN, ....hopefully. As I have ALOT of work to do to the kart still before it can handle this engine (stock is 6.5hp lawnmower engine lol)! I just wanted y'all to see the electrics and what not work, but I don't want to put a bunch of go kart crap on your forum, so in 10 years when it's completely finished, lol I'll post a link here as a lot of the build will be posted on the DIYgokart forum, so anyone interested in the actual build will be able to view it there! Anyway here's the dash: The speedo isn't screwed in yet, it doesn't fit perfect, but it fits better than the pic shows. Switches from left to right: kill switch, start button, headlights, hazards, ignition.
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Post by leakinoil on Sept 17, 2015 11:47:35 GMT -6
A bit a subject but, I've also gotta get this stuff: Hooked up too, so I can post a video of it actually running and the switches working, so y'all can see what you've helped me with. As I have got it to start by pumping my hand over the carb to creat vacuum, but of course it won't stay on. I also have a couple vids of my progress for the other two threads I started, but my phone wont let me upload vids to my YouTube channel:( So I'm gunna wait till I get the vid of it starting and staying on, so I can uploads the vids to a friend of mines channel all at the same time, and post the links here. Anyway thanks again
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Post by leakinoil on Sept 17, 2015 11:16:24 GMT -6
Lol. Sorry Ellpee, What I mean is I haven't seen a actual diagram of the "system ", where they have the kill wire going to the coil. As the diagram I was referring to when I said that is of only a relay, and it just tells you where to run the wires, not actually showing them connected to their switches or device. Exp. Mine would be closer to the top one in that pic This is pretty much how mine is wired^^ I understand that finding a diagram that has the relay and the rest of the system wired exactly how I need (and that I can understand) is probably not gunna happen. lol. But I think wiring it up the way I said I my last post should be good. It should take the brakes out the start system, keep it to where the headlights can't possibly be on when starting, and have the kill switch by itself on a on off switch. You have no idea, without y'all's help I'd probably still be trying to wire it up with the brakes and everything how it was, and still probably be at square 1. Lol. I got four relays, so hopefully if I do something wrong I only blow one of those or a fuse . Today's payday so I'll be back in a about a week or so with it wired up. Thanks Guys
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Post by leakinoil on Sept 16, 2015 14:44:45 GMT -6
I think I've got finally, maybe some can confirm. No matter which wire they're talking about, I should just not use it to power the relay, and instead keep their diagram the way it is, EXCEPT I should change the bk/w wire, whatever it is, to 12v from the ignition like cyborg said and of course run the kill wire from the CDI to it's own on/off switch. I suppose the relay would be "grounded" or at least safe, in "headlight mode" through the headlight fuse, even with interruption in in the ground on pin 85 of the relay? Man I hope that's right lol. Thanks guys
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Post by leakinoil on Sept 16, 2015 12:49:01 GMT -6
I'm just thinking it's the CDI kill wire cause that's the one that's in the handlebars, on the kill switch now, it's black/white on all diagrams I find, And it's always specifically a kill wire. Also I've yet to see a diagram where the kill switch goes to the coil, and it seems to me the coil is always grounded anyway, where power enters and where it connects to the spark plug. But I could be wrong. It's just seems to me that on their diagram that black/white wire would have to be the CDI kill wire, And the way they have it wired, it seems to me that hitting the start button would simotaneously try to start the bike, and kill it at the same time. Lol. Idk. I'm confused. Thanks for your help Ellpee.
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Post by leakinoil on Sept 16, 2015 2:24:20 GMT -6
Ok, I've been studying this little diagram, for a while now, I know why they have the headlights wired, as a safety feature, and I see how it could be easily bypassed by doing what y'all have already said, and then running the (blue/w) headlight wire to 12v and the fuse box and having it completely off when starting the bike. But I think I could be a good feature, Only problem is when I look at the diagram, my mind is telling me a couple things are wrong, maybe someone can clarify. Why do they have the switch on the ground wire? Wouldn't you want the relay to always be grounded? I believe I understand how the relay works, and the way the diagram is, Hitting the button would energize the relay and move the contact from 87a to 87, thus temporarily "disconnecting" the headlight and powering the starter solenoid. The part I don't get is, The (bk/w) wire they have labeled "12v from kill switch to coil", which I'm guessing is the CDI wire,..... Wouldn't making a connection between it and a ground wire cause the bike to turn off, or not start?.....Or am I missing something? Any input is appreciated. Thanks
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Post by leakinoil on Sept 16, 2015 0:21:28 GMT -6
.rattlebars.com/mtz/starter.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">.rattlebars.com/mtz/starter.htmlThe link I've just posted is kinda a "how to" for a starter switch replacement, very similar to the one I have. It appears the reason it's wired in with the headlights is, so when you depress the start button it takes the headlights Out of the electrical system temporarily, so as to put less draw on the system while the starter is engaging. Anyway It has colorful diagrams and explanations as to how why the circuit works. Just in case anyone like me, who can't figure stuff out without pictures or a book that says "for dummies" on the front (lol j/k) needs similar info.
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Post by leakinoil on Sept 13, 2015 14:31:16 GMT -6
Huh, yeah it makes really no sense to me why it goes to the headlight, but I'm about 99% sure it does: That's the left side I'm pretty sure, horn, blinker button and three wires hanging with a missing switch, which I'm pretty sure is the headlights. ( on the other handlebar it's just the kill switch, start button and the two wire for the front brake.) On the diagram I've been using (v-3) those three wire go to a "thermal switch", when there was power to the harness, if I touch the (w) & (w/b) wire (low pos.) together nothing happens, and if I touch the (blue) wire (which they have marked (L) on the diagram) to the (w/b) wire (high pos.) then the headlight comes on. Not sure why the low pos. doesn't work. I the harness I have that (w/b) wire goes to the current relay. And on the diagram it goes to, and only to the "illumination switch". Very confusing to me as I have yet to identify this, "illumination switch". The weird things to me is, the (br/bk) wire that goes from the start button to the current relay, to the fuse box, also goes to the blinker switch and the flasher relay. Doesn't really makes sense to me, i would like to think it doesn't matter lol, but I don't see how it couldn't, just tryin to figure out what all is goin on here and why. I think I got the start/brake circuit understood, thanks to y'all, just still having a lil trouble with the rest. Thanks for all your help guys
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Post by leakinoil on Sept 13, 2015 1:18:25 GMT -6
I know I'm probably making it more complicated than it is, and I really appreciate you guys help, especially since it's not exactly a scooter anymore. I just really like to know what's doing what and why when I learn stuff. Anyway I think I get what y'all are saying now about the start/brake circuit, maybe someone can confirm. I have the switches and speedo disconnected from the harness right now and am waiting til payday to order wire and quality connectors before I can hook everything back up, so I can't test for voltage or anything. But what I'm thinking is, when you flip kill switch to "run" a connection is made between, the (g/r) wire coming from the brake and the (y/w) wire going to the start button. When you hit the brake power goes through the (g/r) wire then through the (y/w) wire to the start button, and then through the (y/r) wire down to the solenoid. So the "run" pos. of the kill switch is pointless. But I would need to wire a switch still to kill the motor through the CDI. So what I should do is, do away with the relay they have now, wire the new start button to 12v and starter solenoid through the new relay I got, and run it to the fuse box off the line the old one was on, or I could put a inline fuse I guess. And then I can wire the two wires that are on the kill switch now for the "off"' pos. to just a normal on/off switch. If I'm right about all that, then I have only two things about the circuit I don't understand still 1) why is the spring brake wired to the fuse box? Because of the kill switch? 2) why does one of the wires on the current relay also go to the low/high beam switch? Sorry for all the questions, Thanks again
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Post by leakinoil on Sept 11, 2015 22:00:23 GMT -6
Just wire the new momentary starter button off the ignition switch so when you turn on the key its live and wire that directly to the solenoid ,,,that will clean up the wiring and get rid of all the safety nanny bs alt the same time Ok I tested the continuity between connectors on the switch and, C1 & NO1 have no continuity until button is pushed, and then none again when I release it, so those are the two pins I want to connect to right? So are you saying to not even hook a relay, and let's say, tap into 12v from the ignition and connect it to C1. And then hook the starter solenoid wire to NO1? Or are you saying to do that but go through the relay? What happens to the kill switch then, as the start button and kill switch are connected by a (y/w) wire that I don't know what to do with. I was really hoping on being able to keep the wiring the way it is, cause I'm likely to mess it up if I alter it and I kinda (lol) understand it the way it is now. I've shortened the harness so it will fit in a small watertight box at the rear of the kart, all the ground wires will be grounded to a stud or two that's inside the box and grounded to the frame. And the wires to the engine parts will come out of one side of the box, and the wires to the speedo, ign., switches will run the length of the kart to the front where there's gunna be a dashboard. As I'm trying to make it street legal. So I need the lights and ect. The only safety switch in the start system I wanted to get rid of is the kickstand switch. Except lately I've been thinking of switching the key style ignition for a switch, and keeping the kickstand switch on a rocker switch, and hiding it on the kart somewhere so as to make it harder to steal. Since it wouldn't have a key anymore. But, I can't even figure this out Lol. Thanks again for your help.
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Post by leakinoil on Sept 11, 2015 16:05:54 GMT -6
Ok, I think I see what you're saying as far as the kill switch just goes to the brake. In the "run" Position it makes a connection between a (g/r)wire going to the foot brake switch, and a (y/w) wire going to the start button. In the "stop" pos. it seems to ground the CDI and the ignition. The start button in the "on" position, makes contact between a (y/r) wire going to the starter solenoid, and the (y/w) wire on the start button. I don't quite understand what you are saying, if I don't use the brake wires/switch, how do I keep the CDI & ignition grounded when engine is off? There is two brake wire on the handle bars, but they don't go to anything right now and have no effect on the starting of the engine. Also most of this stuff ties into a relay or the fuse box. I got the relay I showed because, I don't know what I'm doing and ordered it cause I think/thought I need it. Lol. Idk. I want to replace all the switches, but I wanted to keep everything the same, just with new switches that look nice on the dash, if possible. The brake master cylinder for the kart has a 2-prong, hydraulic pressure switch, so when you hit the brakes the lights come on, cause I wanted to do away with the spring brake switch, so I think I need to Hook the wires from the spring brake to the pressure switch, but there's three, technically four, wires on the spring brake and only two on the switch. There's two wires on the handlebars for the brake, they don't seem to go to the lights, I could be wrong though. I hate when I don't understand something I should thanks for your help Cyborg. I will post a pic of the current relay and a drawing of how the switches are wired. Thanks
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Post by leakinoil on Sept 10, 2015 14:24:32 GMT -6
4-wire start button is on there now: This is the start button I have: And this is the relay: Thanks fellows
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Post by leakinoil on Sept 10, 2015 14:21:25 GMT -6
Hi guys, I was hoping someone could help me, I am replacing the switches on the handlebars for different ones, because this scooter engine is going on a go kart and I'm making a dashboard for the speedo and all the switches off the handlebars. I already got a momentary switch and a relay (I don't even know if they are correct replacements) that I will post pics of, and maybe someone can be of assistance wiring them up ( or telling me they're wrong). Any help is appreciated. Thanks
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Post by leakinoil on Aug 28, 2015 22:06:08 GMT -6
Afternoon everybody. First I'd like to say thanks to J.R and ellpee for helping me out on my last thread getting this wiring harness figured out. Now that I have it together, I have another problem. No spark. I have a new ignition coil and spark plug. I've been trying to start it with a 12v 12ah battery, and also the one from my jeep. I have grounded plug the outside of the engine to visually check for spark. Nada. I have tested continuity between the three phases of the stator, and all settle at 1.6 ohm. I don't know what the values are supposed to be, everyone says they're in the manual, but they're not. When I check cont. between both spades that go to the ignition coil, and pin 2 on the stator, the 1 stays on the left hand side of the screen, and the numbers on the right flash to 60 or so then go away leaving the 1. If I check between pin 1and 3, nothing happens. None of the pins on the stator have cont. with engine or ground, so no short. The blue wire and the green wire on the ignition pickup trigger pulse have cont. between each other of, 123.8 ohms. Pin-6, on the CDI shows 0.00 with key off. -11.28v with key on. When hitting start button goes down to -7.42v then bounces back up to -8.24v or so but bounces around, but not back up to -11.28v. Checking voltage on ignition coil spades: With common lead to green wire and red lead to y/bk wire, multimeter says -0.13v with key OFF. With key ON, flashes -1 on the left side, then jumps to 12.??v and then counts down till it settles at 0.02v. When hitting start button, -0.42v. If I switch the leads around on the coil spades: 0.31v with key OFF. Goes back and forth between -0.01v and 0.00v with key ON. When hitting the start button: 1.23v I tested what I could, but I'm unsure what the numbers mean. Why would I show neg. voltage at pi-6 on the CDI? Shouldn't it be positive voltage? Shouldn't there be more power in the ignition coil wire? Sorry the long post just trying to be clear on what I've found. Any help trying to bring this motor to life is much obliged. Thanks fellows.
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Post by leakinoil on Aug 28, 2015 7:56:23 GMT -6
Update: I have put on new parts: whole carburetor, ignition coil, spark plug and carb. intake manifold. Also changed oil and cvt gear oil. The way I hooked up the harness is: I guessed on the 2-pin connector, and the 9-pin connectors I hooked up how I said I thought they go in my last post. I think this is the correct way cause when I reverse the 9-pin connectors, I blew the fuse on the starter solenoid. The two spade connectors on the handlebars, don't seem to go to the starter, it's the rear brake. Without the rear brake depressed, the little relay I showed a pic if, just makes a clicking noise. Unfortunately, it won't start. When I hit the start button, it wants to start but it won't. It's not even choking any like it's trying to get fuel, which is the problem I believe. Does someone know how to start this thing without the fuel tank or pump hooked up? I'm hearing that it need vacuum to start but if course the pump is not hooked up. Is there a way fore to simulate vacuum, that's safe for the motor? Or maybe I need more fuel? I've only put in less than 1oz, through here: I've been putting in the little clear thing hooked to the hose. I think that goes to the fuel tank. And I think these Two lines on the right coming out the three way split are the vacuum lines. But I'm not sure. An anyone help with this? Thanks fellows
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