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Post by Doug in San Diego on Aug 16, 2011 22:09:39 GMT -6
Hello All The new engine finally arrived, so I thought I would document the installation process. The new engine looks great. It is a 1p57QMJ so I’m hoping it will produce a little more power. 1) Remove old engine – This is actually very easy. Then engine is only held on by the shocks, one long bolt, and the swing arm. Disconnect a few wires ,remove the starter, remove the carburetor , the brake line and the engine comes right out. I have a video from a previous removal on youtube
Stupid alert – It’s easier to remove the fluid while it is still attached (forgot this) 2) Before I put the new engine onto my scooter I had to swap out the stator. This was very simple. I used an impact wrench and a flywheel puller and the swap was easy. The only reason I did this was that my old wires did not match up with my new wires. 3) I also took the opportunity to adjust my valves (much easier to do on a bench) 4) I put my nice prodigy variator, clutch, 1500 contra spring, and clutch bell onto the new engine. (also easier to do on a bench) My next step is to install the motor, replace the old fluids, and start connecting parts I will keep you posted Doug |
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Post by Doug in San Diego on Aug 16, 2011 17:52:34 GMT -6
Hi all
As you know, I am putting a new engine in, so far so good.
But it got me wondering.
Are there any risks of putting in a UNI filter and a free-flow exhaust.
I know you have to upjet, but do you risk wearing things out faster?
Just curious. I never seemed to get much improvement from the exhaust, and I am thinking about putting the stock back on.
But, if there is no risk, I'll keep it
Doug
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Post by Doug in San Diego on Aug 15, 2011 23:00:56 GMT -6
Okeeey Dokeey
Stators are swapped!
Nice to have the tools you need (flywheel puller)
So it looks like I can just plug the new engine (with old stator) right into all my old wires.
Keep all fingers crossed
Doug
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Post by Doug in San Diego on Aug 15, 2011 21:21:43 GMT -6
Thanks JR
Ok , I can swap out the stators. So then would I just connect any yellow to yellow? (there are three yellow wires coming off the stator)
Anything else I should know?
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Post by Doug in San Diego on Aug 15, 2011 20:11:43 GMT -6
Well all
The new engine has arrived. It did not include a CDI or anything but the wires coming off the Stator and the starter.
Here Is my question. My old stator connector had 3 yellow wires connecting to 3 other yellow wires
My new Stator has 3 wires coming off of it too (different connector) but the 3 wires are green yellow white.
I assume I cannot just willy nilly hook up these new wires to my old wires.
How should I proceed? There are also 2 other wires to hook up, and those colors dont match either.
Do I need to switch out Stators or should I try to find a new piece? and what to do about the other 2 wires?
Doug
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Post by Doug in San Diego on Aug 7, 2011 21:14:51 GMT -6
Hi guys With a UNI filter and a free flow exhaust what size jets do you suggest I read this but it seemed really high Properly Selecting And Installing Carburetor Jets [12,251 views - 6 comments - Rating 5/5 ***** ] Sizing at sea level: With UNI filter 120-125 With UNI filter and low restriction exhaust 130-135 With UNI filter, low restriction exhaust, A12 cam, performance coil & CDI and NGK Iridium spark plug 135-140 Test procedure: 1. Run engine at less than half throttle a minimum of 15 minutes to close electric choke 2. On a 300' or 100 meter stretch or greater, run the engine at wide open throttle 3. While still holding the gas pedal to the floor, cut the ignition 4. Remove the spark plug and inspect end for color a. White - Increase jet size b. Tan/Brown - Correct jet size c. Black - Decrease jet size 5. Clean spark plug with brass wire brush and check the gap prior to next test run Read more: scooterdoc.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=150cc&action=display&thread=4688#ixzz1UP4vZRNk |
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Post by Doug in San Diego on Aug 2, 2011 21:11:36 GMT -6
Sorry J.R.
Did I miss where to send the Money? Paypal would be easiest for me
Doug
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Post by Doug in San Diego on Jul 28, 2011 14:18:52 GMT -6
Dang It!
Just when I finally decide to pull the trigger..............
They are out of stock!
Maybe this will give them a chance to get rid of the mis-labelled engines.
Who knows, maybe July was a good month for engines in China - Unlike the month that they made my original
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Post by Doug in San Diego on Jul 27, 2011 20:53:52 GMT -6
I have a chrome intake manifold. The only Problem is that it raises the carb, thus making the filter hit square on the dreaded frame hump.
I may get a UNI "sock" - Any warnings against this?
The K&N look good, but I'm afraid that it make hit the hump. There is only 2 inches between the carb and the hump
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Post by Doug in San Diego on Jul 27, 2011 11:57:19 GMT -6
One other thing
I like the Idea of more air flow, but I was never a fan of the additional noise you get from the intake side of the engine. (kind of a WAAAAAHHHH when you hit the throttle)
I would love to find a compromise between performance and noise
OF course with an eye towards having this engine last forever
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Post by Doug in San Diego on Jul 26, 2011 21:25:32 GMT -6
Hello All Im in the process of getting a new engine. I thought I would start from scratch. I wanted to get opinions on Air Filters /Intakes Of course there is the Uni FIlter and the UNI Sock But then there are these i487.photobucket.com/albums/rr234/drierdan/Filter3.jpgi487.photobucket.com/albums/rr234/drierdan/Filter2.jpg Also - What are your thought on jetting - THis engine with have one of these filters and an open exhaust. Regular Carb and 150cc engine. Currently my carb has 38 and 115 - I really really really don't want to burn up any more rings. I just want an engine that will last for a long time (so does mywife) Thanks Doug |
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Post by Doug in San Diego on Jul 23, 2011 10:02:35 GMT -6
I had another thought
The real question is why do I keep blowing rings?
This is probably the 3rd or 4th time I have had blown rings?
I regularly change the oil, I don't drive it too hard.
The only thing I can think of is the A12 cam I have or the long hill I have to drive up every day.
My jets are 115 and 38 - I have an open exhaust and an UNI filter.
It just does not seem right that I keep frying rings
Any thoughts
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Post by Doug in San Diego on Jul 22, 2011 21:32:51 GMT -6
Sigh............
All right you bastages, you've dragged me back in! (every time I think I'M OUT, THE DRAG ME BACK)
Since my choices are
1) spend $300 on a new engine
2) replace the chain tensioner, guides, new gaskets, new rings (less than 50)
I'm leaning towards option #2
I really want to be that guy who says "oh it's broken? Get a new one
But Instead I'm the guy who says "I can fix it"
One last try, then it's $300 here I come
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Post by Doug in San Diego on Jul 18, 2011 19:12:54 GMT -6
It's a brand new crank
Chain looks good, can't speak for the tensioner.... what should I look for
May try new rings. dunno
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Post by Doug in San Diego on Jul 18, 2011 17:05:41 GMT -6
Hello All I am thinking about getting a new engine, but before I do I thought I look at it one last time. Here are the symptoms On my 150cc gy6 with a 59mm big bore and an A9 cam It all began with a strange whirring coming from inside the engine. I decided to split the case and replace the crankshaft (video on YouTube) Later the whir returned and in the end it was accompanied by a serious loss in power up hills. (that was the last day I drove it) - I've checked the compression - 95 PSI (Low I think)
- When I spin the engine by hand I get air coming out of the valve cover tube into the cannister
- When I spin it by hand I really don't hear anything strange
I'm planning on removing the head and cylinder just to see If I can see anything. For the longest time the whir did not cause any problems other than a noise that increased with RPMs Just thought I'd ask for any last minute "Hail Mary" solutions before I drop close to $300 (which is a lot of money for me) Thanks Doug |
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