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Post by sirthomas on Aug 10, 2015 18:18:44 GMT -6
I think I'm making some headway. I found where the ignition switch used to be wired in. It had come undone. Now the fuse is blown so I have to get a replacement to proceed. I ordered a new ignition coil and spark plug to replace the one I damaged. As soon as those come in I might make some progress. Still wish I could find the correct wiring diagram for this scooter.
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Post by sirthomas on Aug 9, 2015 11:10:18 GMT -6
All I know is that there is no juice going to the solenoid to engage the plunger which completes the circuit from the battery to the starter. There are tons of wiring on these things and most are covered with tape or black tubing so it's hard to trace the wiring. If I disconnect the connector from the switch to the solenoid and check for continuity, there is continuity but when I set the meter on DC voltage there is constant fluctuation in the reading WITHOUT the starter button being pressed but with it pressed, it reads the voltage going down to zero. It's not making sense to me. I need to figure out where along the circuitry the battery supplies the current needed to activate the plunger. |
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Post by sirthomas on Aug 9, 2015 2:47:54 GMT -6
Big question. Does the CDI have anything to do with the starter switch? How do I test the CDI and where do I find a replacement if I need it.
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Post by sirthomas on Aug 8, 2015 17:32:41 GMT -6
Attached are pictures of the scooter. Looks bad doesn't it. I don't know where the kids found it.   |
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Post by sirthomas on Aug 8, 2015 17:29:45 GMT -6
Still can't find the pieces that goes inside the boot but I put a spring in there temporarily, put electrical tape around the plug so the boot would stay in place and then jumped the solenoid by putting 6 volts to the relay and it fires right up so the big issue is why the starter switch is not sending current to the solenoid relay.
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Post by sirthomas on Aug 8, 2015 16:07:57 GMT -6
I pulled the connector that connects the solenoid to the starter switch and then made contact with a 6 volt adapter and the starter cranked the motor over. That eliminates the battery, solenoid or starter as the problem.
I can't test for spark because the sparkplug boot is messed up. The contact on the inside fell out and I lost it. You know where I can get a replacement. Also the tip of the spark plug that goes into the boot is broke off. I have a new spark plug on order but that won't do no good unless I can fix the boot.
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Post by sirthomas on Aug 8, 2015 15:21:23 GMT -6
Put the battery back on fully charged. Nothing. I need the wiring schematics on this thing. All the lock and the ignition key tumblers have been disenabled. I know it worked because they have been riding it around. Someone must have figured out a way to bypass the key ignition so if ANYONE has the wiring schematics to this scooter or one similar to it.
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Post by sirthomas on Aug 8, 2015 9:41:51 GMT -6
Well, I need to get the battery back. It had about 3.5 volts left on it. The guys at Advance Auto that trickle charged it says it charged up and is holding the charge so the battery is fine. This tells me that the Stator is not charging the battery up.
While the battery was being charged, I had another 12 volt battery from a John Deere RX75 that I was working on. I put that on, nothing. I bypass the solenoid and jumped it. The starter kicked over.
Now on most riding mowers and tractors, you have 6 volt circuit that when you turn the switch, it sends a current to the solenoid which creates a magnetic field that closes the plunger and completes the circuit from the battery to the starter. Does this same principle apply here? I check the connector to the solenoid from the starter switch (button) for continuity and there is. Should I be checking for voltage? AC or DC?
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Post by sirthomas on Aug 6, 2015 8:30:41 GMT -6
I am trying to test the rectifier for the Sundiro XDZ50QT FI-Shinning. I have some problem with the wiring since I'm color blind. Attached is the plug with wires and the rectifier. Per the Schematic on a Help page 1 is the ground, 2 is the battery, 3 is Stator AC1 and 4 is Stator AC2. Here in lies the problem. Using my Multimeter set on Ohms I'm getting: Black on 1: Red on 3 = 8.5 Ohms Red on 4 = 0 ohms Red on 2 = 0 ohms
Black on 2: Red on 4 = 8.25 ohms Red on 3 = 0 ohms Red on 2 = 0 ohms
Same thing when I put Red on 1 and 2
What am I doing wrong   |
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Post by sirthomas on Aug 5, 2015 14:09:24 GMT -6
I am retired and as a hobby I rebuild small engines, starting out with 2 cycle Weed Eaters and Blowers and 4 cycle mowers and tillers. I just advanced to Lawn Tractors. Now some neighborhood kids brought over a Sundiro XDZ50QT B Akita Scooter. Someone has torn into it before. It won't start. I know it had been working because I've seen the kids riding around in it. It will not start with the kick start. The battery on it was dead. I tried a different 12 volt battery I had. Nothing. If I bypass the solenoid, the starter will crank. I'm getting continuity from the wire coming from the start switch. What trips the relay or plunger in the solenoid on these things. A lot of stuff on this scooter is new to me. I can't seem to locate a Service Manual, Parts Manual or Schematics. I'd appreciate any help. I can't legally drive and I'd like to pick up a scooter to rebuild for myself. |
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