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Post by sirthomas on Aug 6, 2015 8:30:41 GMT -6
I am trying to test the rectifier for the Sundiro XDZ50QT FI-Shinning. I have some problem with the wiring since I'm color blind. Attached is the plug with wires and the rectifier. Per the Schematic on a Help page 1 is the ground, 2 is the battery, 3 is Stator AC1 and 4 is Stator AC2. Here in lies the problem. Using my Multimeter set on Ohms I'm getting: Black on 1: Red on 3 = 8.5 Ohms Red on 4 = 0 ohms Red on 2 = 0 ohms
Black on 2: Red on 4 = 8.25 ohms Red on 3 = 0 ohms Red on 2 = 0 ohms
Same thing when I put Red on 1 and 2
What am I doing wrong
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Post by JR on Aug 7, 2015 21:33:53 GMT -6
sirthomas You will get no where by ohming out the system. This is a simply four pin R/R system and charge the battery so it will start and run. Then using the volt meter check the voltage on the battery (plug the R/R back in) at idle and at 3500 rpm. At idle you should have 13 volts or so and a little higher with the engine revved. Let us know what you find out? JR
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Post by sirthomas on Aug 8, 2015 9:41:51 GMT -6
Well, I need to get the battery back. It had about 3.5 volts left on it. The guys at Advance Auto that trickle charged it says it charged up and is holding the charge so the battery is fine. This tells me that the Stator is not charging the battery up. While the battery was being charged, I had another 12 volt battery from a John Deere RX75 that I was working on. I put that on, nothing. I bypass the solenoid and jumped it. The starter kicked over. Now on most riding mowers and tractors, you have 6 volt circuit that when you turn the switch, it sends a current to the solenoid which creates a magnetic field that closes the plunger and completes the circuit from the battery to the starter. Does this same principle apply here? I check the connector to the solenoid from the starter switch (button) for continuity and there is. Should I be checking for voltage? AC or DC?
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Post by sirthomas on Aug 8, 2015 15:21:23 GMT -6
Put the battery back on fully charged. Nothing. I need the wiring schematics on this thing. All the lock and the ignition key tumblers have been disenabled. I know it worked because they have been riding it around. Someone must have figured out a way to bypass the key ignition so if ANYONE has the wiring schematics to this scooter or one similar to it.
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Post by sirthomas on Aug 8, 2015 16:07:57 GMT -6
I pulled the connector that connects the solenoid to the starter switch and then made contact with a 6 volt adapter and the starter cranked the motor over. That eliminates the battery, solenoid or starter as the problem. I can't test for spark because the sparkplug boot is messed up. The contact on the inside fell out and I lost it. You know where I can get a replacement. Also the tip of the spark plug that goes into the boot is broke off. I have a new spark plug on order but that won't do no good unless I can fix the boot.
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Post by sirthomas on Aug 8, 2015 17:29:45 GMT -6
Still can't find the pieces that goes inside the boot but I put a spring in there temporarily, put electrical tape around the plug so the boot would stay in place and then jumped the solenoid by putting 6 volts to the relay and it fires right up so the big issue is why the starter switch is not sending current to the solenoid relay.
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Post by JR on Aug 10, 2015 21:12:17 GMT -6
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