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Post by sirthomas on Sept 26, 2015 16:53:36 GMT -6
I have the oil line reconnected. How can I tell for sure if the oil injector pump is working properly. I don't know how long it's been run without being connected. Right now it drips oil out of the line that goes to the carburetor while it is running. Should it be squirting or dripping. I don't know if my posts are showing up.
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Post by sirthomas on Sept 15, 2015 3:11:57 GMT -6
The Sundiro Akita I'm rebuilding for myself has a 50cc two stroke engine. It has an oil injector but the person I bought it from had disconnected that and uses a 32:1 gas/oil mix in the tank. He said that there is a risk that then oil pump would fail and damage the engine. How high are the risk of that happening? Should I reconnect the oil line and check the pump or leave it as it is? The down size of having a gas/oil mix is that if you go any distance and run out of gas you are stuck unless you keep the oil in the tool box and fill up adding the oil. |
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Post by sirthomas on Sept 11, 2015 17:34:02 GMT -6
While waiting for the rectifier to come in I thought I'd check the air cleaner. Whoa! It's all crumbly. I had to order another one so I pulled the carb apart to make sure it's ok. Looks good. The gasket to the crankcase cover (that covers the belt drive) is all rotted but the belt looks ok. I've got to make a new gasket. Sure I cut my own on everything I work on.
I decided I'm going to rebuild from the ground up since it appears that the previous owner didn't take care of it. I'm waiting for the flywheel puller to make sure there is no rust on the stator. If there is, I'll clean and check it. There is an oil reservoir on the wheel end of the belt drive with no oil.
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Post by sirthomas on Sept 10, 2015 8:35:07 GMT -6
My mistake. I was reading the meter wrong but 30 vac at 4000+ rpm is the most I can get. At idle (wheels not turning) on it's stand it's about 11 vac. Is that enough? Should I go with the rectifier or Stator?
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Post by sirthomas on Sept 10, 2015 3:45:08 GMT -6
The wires connected to the Rectifier are White/Brown (to stator), Yellow/Red (to stator), Red/Blue (to the fuse) and Black (Common).
It starts up and runs when I kick start. The .30 is when I rev it up with the meter's red lead connected to the Y/R wire and the black to a ground. Looking at the manual, I may have the meter set up wrong. I'll have to try it again later. It's 5:30 am. I'm not a late sleeper.
The reason I'm checking this is, as I have mentioned, the battery is not charging. With the meter set to DC and the red lead on the positive and the black to the negative and the motor running, the battery fully charged, the meter reads in the upper 11's and starts dropping slowly. Also taking the scooter out at night, you cannot see ahead at all with a new bulb and high beam on. Now I get conflicting information. One says the headlight gets AC voltage and the other says DC voltage. If it is AC then the Stator is not producing enough voltage. This scooter does not have a "headlight switch", just the dimmer switch. The bulb is a 12V 35W/35W.
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Post by sirthomas on Sept 9, 2015 18:44:18 GMT -6
I guess it's hard to see but the decimal is in front of the 30. Does that still mean it's 30 vac?
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Post by sirthomas on Sept 9, 2015 14:18:53 GMT -6
I disconnected the 4 wire connector off the rectifier and connected the meter red to the Yellow/Red wire and black to ground, kick started the motor and set the meter to AC. I'm only getting max of .30 AC volts. Can a motor run on that. The battery is not charging up and the headlight is not very bright at all even at high beam with a new bulb. Is this meaning I need a new Stator? Below is the schematic for this scooter.  |
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Post by sirthomas on Sept 8, 2015 9:52:09 GMT -6
I can put a fully charged battery on the scooter. Put my meter on there and it reads approximately 12.7 volts. I start it up and it drops to 11.5 volts and starts dropping slowly. I saw a video where the meter jumps to 13.1 volts when started with the battery in it. Where do I start looking. I understand that the Stator either works or don't work. If the stator is bad it would not run. I don't think the CDI has anything to do with the charging of the battery so it must be the rectifier/regulartor correct? |
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Post by sirthomas on Sept 7, 2015 12:09:05 GMT -6
I'm looking for body parts for my 2001 Sundiro Akita. If you don't have them you might point me in the right directions. It's the left and right moulding and the rear center cover that goes below the taillight. Doesn't matter the color.   |
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Post by sirthomas on Sept 3, 2015 4:08:31 GMT -6
This morning (yeah I'm a early riser) I set a meter to DC Voltage and connected it to the battery. It read 11.5. When I kick started it the voltage dropped to 9.0 and hung around there. Doesn't change when you gun it. I have it on a charger now.
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Post by sirthomas on Sept 3, 2015 2:36:23 GMT -6
It was a bad connection to the bulb. Now the battery is dead. It could be because I haven't let it run long enough to charge it up or something is wrong with the R/R. I have to kick start. The intensity of the headlight changes when you gun the throttle. I'm going to do what you suggested on checking the battery with the meter while it is running to see if any charge is going to it.
I haven't really driven it that much. NC requires registration and tag on scooters since July 1 and I haven't gotten it yet. I'm waiting on the turn signal switch. Last thing I need is to get pulled over.
On the other bike, the kid brought it back. Having trouble starting it and when started it won't run at high rpm. I noticed that it didn't have any oil in the reservoir. I asked him if he put any oil in it. He didn't even know that this is an gas/oil mix two cycle. I'm going to take a compression check. I think the motor is blown.
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Post by sirthomas on Sept 2, 2015 14:13:16 GMT -6
I got the kids Sundiro running but not with electric start. They seem happy with it. While looking for parts for THAT scooter on Craigs list I came across another exact same model. I figured why not, I can ride it as long as I get it registered without a drivers license. Lot of body work needed to be done on it which I did. I repainted it Gator Orange and Blue (picture later). I'm missing three pieces which are in the parts list below. Left side moulding (10), right side moulding (11) and the rear center cover (12) that goes below the taillight. The headlight bulb was out so I ordered a new one. It still doesn't work. The black, if I'm not badly mistaken, is the common and attaches to the clip that contacts the side then the other two to the prongs that contact the tips on the back of the bulb. Unless I'm not getting good contact on the bulb is there a problem with the regulator part of the rectifier? I'm assuming the bulb gets AC power. The dimmer switch light comes on the instrument panel when you set high beam. All the other lights work.  |
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Post by sirthomas on Aug 13, 2015 16:35:36 GMT -6
I'm learning very quickly on the mechanics of this scooter. The oil and gas is mixed but not in the tank. The oil goes into the flywheel side of the motor (I haven't taken the motor apart) where it is pumped through a small line into the carburetor.
Also the gas tank has a check valve type setup. One line runs from the chamber between the carb and the engine block which creates a vacuum opening the valve permitting the fuel to enter the fuel line to the carburetor.
I still haven't been able to get a fuse. I can't drive so I have to rely on other people for transportation. With out that I can't test the electrical system. I got the new ignition coil but the wrong sparkplug so I've got to locate a place that sell the right kind of plugs.
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Post by sirthomas on Aug 13, 2015 4:21:39 GMT -6
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Post by sirthomas on Aug 12, 2015 15:14:17 GMT -6
This diagram shows two fuse blocks. I've only found one. Is that an exception or should I keep looking. The headlight is not working though the tail, tag and turn lights are. I haven't been able to get a 7 amp fuse. I see Advance Auto carries 7.5 amp 12 volt glass fuses. That should still work right? |
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