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Yes, I had seen that assortment already. I'm in the store almost every week, and was passing by one today, but I thought the crushable type would be a better bet. Funny, the eBay order was about 4.00 for the 10 pack, and $5.00 shipping! That was the cheapest I found.

OK, I dodged the head gasket job. I was poking around, trying to see where the chromed coolant pipe runs to, when I brushed up against a coolant hose. I started hearing a gurgle, and realized the hose had come completely off the fitting in the block and coolant was pouring out. This is the lower hose, under the carb. I saw the hose clamp dangling there, and thought the guy at the factory had completely forgotten to tighten it. A closer inspection showed he had probably tightened it too much, and it snapped. I guess the low quality hose clamps can take too much tension before they snap. I replaced that one and the other hose at the block with high quality hose clamps.

While I'm adding coolant, I thought I'd add a copper washer on the drain plug. They had silicone there, with no washer. Should be a copper washer, if you ask me.

Sorry, I guess I forgot to attach the photos. Exactly how do I attach an image? I don't see any way to attach, only a way to add a link.

I did a little more investigating tonight. I turned the garage lights off and used a flashlight to illuminate the area in question. It looks like the area around the head gasket is clean. The leaking area seems to be lower on the cylinder/block. It's hard to see exactly where the leak is, will all the associated parts mounted, blocking the view.

The chromed pipe that attaches to the block, below the starter, what does it do? Does it carry coolant to the block? I see copper washers on it, so I'm assuming it likely carries coolant. It may be leaking also.

That is exactly what it feels like.  I was wondering if there is something that lowers the compression to allow easier starting, that isn't working.  Anyone know if these scooters have such a system?

I'll try the jumper cables with the car battery, but I'd bet it will still be the same, which will further point to a bad starter.

I ordered a new one on eBay, and it looks like they are all generic, with no "heavy duty" type available.

It makes me mad since it runs so good after it starts.  Also, it only has a few hundred miles on it, and I shouldn't have to be going through these problems so soon.

Guess I'll just wait and see how it does with the new battery, which should be here in a few days. The starter isn't too expensive, so that will be next on the list of things to replace. I'm glad that otherwise it's a great running scooter.

Well, I upgraded the R/R, went with a "better" battery, ungraded the wiring from the battery to the starter, and I'm still having problems.  The scoot starts fine when cold, but when hot it doesn't seem to have enough power in the battery to turn the engine over.  I ordered a 220CCA lithium battery and I'm hoping that solves the problem.  The voltmeter shows it at about 12.5 volts when trying to start, but after holding down the starter button a few seconds, it drops down to 8.5v under the load.  Goes back up to 12 or so volts after I let go of the starter button.

I'm thinking:
1.  The battery just doesn't have enough cranking amps to start the engine once the compression has increased, do the the hot engine, or
2.  The starter, which BTW is very hot to touch after the engine warms up, is on it's way out.

Jumping the starter solenoid doesn't help.

The voltmeter (which replaced the am-fm radio I never used) shows good charging.  I switched to a Oregon MP R/R, and the charging voltage is very good. 

Any ideas on what the problem is?

Yes, that's pretty much how I did the other two seats I added gel pads to.  I never used the smoothing foam, but since it comes with the gel kit I ordered on eBay, I will use it.  I hope there is enough foam to gouge out at the rear of the seating area, to accommodate the foam thickness I bought.   The original seat looks kind of thin there, and my butt agrees with me.  Exactly where the most padding is needed is where it's the thinnest.  Hopefully the gel will fix that problem.