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Post by dannytroy on Jun 28, 2014 8:37:42 GMT -6
Did you add cooling to the R/R? I'm a little concerned that since it appears to be a "high performance" unit compared to stock, it will also run hotter. It feels pretty hot to me, and that's without the shell on. I know people add cooling fans, but to do it the right way it would have to be relocated to an area with more space, for the fan to pull in more air.
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Post by dannytroy on Jun 26, 2014 14:57:24 GMT -6
Well, what a difference a day makes, and BTW, sorry for posting in this non-Chinese forum. I just noticed that.
My charging with the new Oregon MP R/R is perfect now. As a matter of fact, now I'm more worried about over-charging.
My stalling issues turned out to be a bad Iridium spark plug. Go figure, something as simple as that, and I had the bike half-torn apart before I decided to check for spark. It worked fine when cold, but crapped out when hot. I went back to the original NGK plug, at 1/4 the price. I also upgraded my ground lead, as well as both (+) leads to the starter. I think the hesitation with the starter may be because it is going bad. I may order a new one and install it, for peace of mind on a long trip. The super-heavy gauge leads didn't help at all.
Are there any heavy-duty starters out there, or should I just go with whatever I can find on eBay.
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Post by dannytroy on Jun 24, 2014 13:06:46 GMT -6
OK, I got the LED's installed. They draw .17v on low beam, and .53 on high beam (each bulb). The charging circuit on the scoot now shows about 15.15v. Now do I have to worry about overcharging?  Also, one of the bulbs seems to have an intermittent problem, where 9 of the 12 side LED's don't always light. Is this possibly due to the too high voltage? Are they being damaged by that much over 12v? Should I install a resistor for each beam (4 resistors)? Well, at least I no longer have to worry about being stranded due to a dead battery |
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Post by dannytroy on Jun 24, 2014 8:34:29 GMT -6
Sounds good to me. They should be arriving in a few hours. I'll do a bench test to see what they draw.
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Post by dannytroy on Jun 23, 2014 8:57:16 GMT -6
Yes, the diode checked out fine, but I thought I'd put the relay in to get a little better charging. I noticed the headlight getting very bright after bypassing the diode, just before they blew out. I just checked the Osram halogen bulbs. The high beam, which is the only beam working, are drawing 2.7A. The stock draw 2.1A. So the halogens are a total of 1.2A extra draw, which is probably enough in a marginal system to cause problems. I'm anxious to test the draw on the LED's, which should be arriving tomorrow.
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Post by dannytroy on Jun 22, 2014 6:55:57 GMT -6
Thank John.... I ordered two 88w (for better or worse) LEDs on Amazon yesterday. I had credit to use there, so it was a no-brainer. I think that will be the answer to my charge problems and will be much brighter than stock. If not brighter than the Halogens they will replace that's ok too.
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Post by dannytroy on Jun 20, 2014 21:43:20 GMT -6
Did more research and it looks like I need the BA20D bulb (H6 type?). I see they have an 88w LED on Amazon. Would this be overkill, or should I go with the 60w version?
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Post by dannytroy on Jun 20, 2014 21:04:08 GMT -6
I just took some readings. I found that the low beams were blown, but still have high beams, so I'm able to test the voltage with the lights on or off by using the hi-lo beam switch. I also added a fan switch last year, thinking the fan was killing the battery. Probably not that, as it comes on as needed, when the temp gets up to about halfway on the temp gauge. So here are the reading I got, with the engine at idle: No lights or fan: 14.3v Only hi-beams on 12.8v Hi-beams and fan on: 12.2v Fan on, without lights: 13.6v So, it looks to me like the lights are the problem, and I'm thinking HID, or LEDs if they are as bright as HID. The HID system for H4 on eBay is $43.99 delivered, which seems like a good deal to me. Would this be the kit to get? .ebay.com/itm/BI-XENON-HI-LOW-DUAL-BEAM-HID-Kit-H4-H13-9004-9007-9008-/261294929526?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cd6643676&vxp=mtr" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"> .ebay.com/itm/BI-XENON-HI-LOW-DUAL-BEAM-HID-Kit-H4-H13-9004-9007-9008-/261294929526?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cd6643676&vxp=mtr |
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Post by dannytroy on Jun 20, 2014 16:24:32 GMT -6
I just did a litte research and it looks like I need to go with a HID system. They are cheap enough on eBay, but could use some guidance as to which one to get.
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Post by dannytroy on Jun 20, 2014 15:20:32 GMT -6
I should mention, the lights got very bright, just before they stopped working, so I'm pretty sure they are blown, and not just a fuse. I believe playing around, trying to make a good connection with the jumper from the two pins in the diode harness is what caused it.
I'm not at home right now, but I will have to check to see what other bulbs might have been blown. I replaced the stop/tail lights with LED's and they seem to draw very little. Hope there is something similar for the headlamps.
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Post by dannytroy on Jun 20, 2014 10:51:06 GMT -6
Hello, My first post, so be gentle!
I've had a charging problem with my Roketa 54B scoot and am trying to figure out exaxtly what is going on.
The scoot starts fine, but after a short trip, after it heats up, it doesn't have enough juice to restart. I replaced the factory battery with a much more expensive battery from Autozone, but that didn't help. I checked the stator and it's good, and thought I'd upgrade the r/r with the Oregon Motorcycle Parts unit, and although it's better, it still isn't charging as it should. Today, I used a jumper on the blocking diode, while it was running, and managed to blow out both headlights. I had thought about replacing the diode with a relay, and I have one on hand to use. I had upgraded the headlights to Halogen soon after I got the bike, since the stock bulbs were way too dim for my 63 year old eyes. But guess what, the voltage went up to where it should be, at over 14 volts while idling, to charge the depleted battery. Even with the fan on it's still up there.
So really, it looks like the headlights were too much for the system. Do you guys agree, or is there something else going it you can suggest? Is there a headlight bulb that is very bright, but that doesn't take a lot of juice? Luckily, I have the old bulbs, so I won't be dead in the water while waiting for the new bulbs.
Thanks for your help....
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