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Post by carefulrider on Mar 8, 2015 13:55:22 GMT -6
Finally, a day above freezing:
The red wire has current with the ignition switch on & off.
The yellow wire has current only with the ignition switch on.
The plastic connector was so melted that I had to brake it off in order to access the wire clips. I didn't pay attention & now I don't know to which blade of the diode to connect the red & yellow wires.
That's where I am in the process. More days above freezing predicted this week, so I should be able to apply your advice & suggestions to the scoot daily. Thanks again.
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Post by carefulrider on Feb 27, 2015 8:52:22 GMT -6
Hello People:
The temp has not risen above freezing & I have chosen not to work on the scoot because I would be coming in so often to warm up.
I might not have been able to describe clearly what the symptom is. Picture in your mind's eye, the diode connected to the wiring harness by a 2-blade female plastic connector. Now pull off/withdraw this connector, revealing 2 blades protruding from the diode itself. These 2 blades are not parallel to each other. They are at 90° to each other. Now divert your attention to the white plastic connector that you just pulled off the diode blades. This connector has 2 wires leading into it from the wiring harness. If you take a VOM/multimeter & insert 1 probe of the meter into 1 female blade sheath of the connector (not the diode), & touch the other probe of the meter to a bare metal frame member of the scoot, you get a 12V or thereabouts reading on the volt meter.
Now if you insert the 1st probe of the meter into the 2nd female blade sheath of the connector & touch the other probe of the meter to the bare metal frame member of the scoot, you again get a similar 12V or thereabouts reading on the volt meter.
Please note that I have not done any checking of the diode itself; only the connector. Therefore, there is current flowing from both those wires leading into that plastic connector from the wiring harness.
I presume from what you have said, that there is a short in those wires. Do I then, have to cut open the harness & follow the wires along the harness to attempt to locate the short? If you say yes, I shall get ready to do this the next day it gets above freezing.
It's going to be March in a couple of days, & I think it's reasonable enough to expect some days next month when it will be above freezing. My patience has worn thin with the temperatures in the north-east this winter.
Thanks for your help thus far.
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Post by carefulrider on Feb 3, 2015 14:19:28 GMT -6
Any suggestions as to where & how to look for a short? The temperature might rise above freezing this week-end, & I shall attempt to diagnose it, if it's warm enough outside. Or should I say less cold?
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Post by carefulrider on Feb 3, 2015 14:16:06 GMT -6
If you're anywhere where it freezes, my scoot's throttle cable froze in place, evidently owing to moisture somewhere in there; it was only 20°F. After the temperature rose, & it thawed, I lubricated it, & it hasn't frozen again.
In another case I have known a cable to break somewhere in the cable weave, & then penetrate & get stuck to the cable sheathing. So that's more food for thought for you.
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Post by carefulrider on Jan 30, 2015 16:06:20 GMT -6
Oops! I am so sorry: I did not state that I disconnected the plastic connector from the diode, & then when I connected the volt meter to each blade of the plastic connector, there was/is current flowing through each blade.
I shall do as you have directed on the next day it goes over freezing in this neck of the woods. Thanks for the help thus far.
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Post by carefulrider on Jan 28, 2015 18:00:15 GMT -6
The headlights do not come on at all, with the ignition key turned on or not. Should both the wires that connect to the diode have current flowing through them? I am afraid to connect the wires to the diode without getting confirmation that it's normal to have power in both wires.
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Post by carefulrider on Jan 26, 2015 14:58:22 GMT -6
I began the diagnosis process this week-end. I checked for current flow through the wires that connect to the blocking diode through a 2-blade connector. Both wires have current flowing through them. Is it normal? If not, what should I do? Thanks in advance.
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Post by carefulrider on Dec 18, 2014 9:58:47 GMT -6
Thanks JR; shall check it next year, upon my return from visiting family over Christmas.
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Post by carefulrider on Dec 17, 2014 10:34:22 GMT -6
I'm slowly but surely getting my 2006 model year, JMStar/Jonway VIVA YY250T-2, Flagship-Style (1200-800) body, 244 cc (copy of Honda CN250, upright or vertically oriented) engine; 10" rear wheel, ready to ride next Spring.
While I was warming up the engine to change the engine oil, I noticed smoke rising into the cold almost-winter air. I followed it down to its source, & was dismayed to see the blocking diode's white plastic connector soft, shiny, looking like it was melting & smoke coming from it.
I should say at this point, that the headlights were not working at any time, from the time I initially turned the ignition switch on, untill I turned the key off to stop further heating, smoking & melting.
I suppose I should replace the blocking diode; is there anything else that I should check, as to the cause of the over-heating of the diode? Or is it that blocking diodes can over heat when they malfunction?
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Post by carefulrider on Nov 13, 2014 10:07:59 GMT -6
Okay, thanks for that. Does the counter clockwise adjustment hold true for carburetors with the downward pointing screw head at the back of the carburetor?
The screw is currently out 2-3/4 turns. I shall turn it till it is out 3 turns.
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Post by carefulrider on Nov 10, 2014 11:05:02 GMT -6
Thanks for that. Shall connect the air box & proceed from there.
Now, a day later, I re-connected the air filter box to the carburetor & started the motor. It amazes me how it starts with just half a turn of the starter motor. After the usual fast start, the motor idled high, & then unprovoked, idled low, & rough at both speeds. Then it would idle high, where the clutch would engage, & then cycle down again. This continued for approximately four minutes, when I thought I should check if there was an air leak from the air filter box up to the carburetor, making it as if no air filter box was connected in the first place.
I placed a piece of paper over the air intake holes of the air filter box, & the engine died at once. This made me conclude that there was no air leaking in to the carburetor air intake, from the air filter box side. It should be noted that the engine had reached operating temperature, & the enricher & thermostat had both moved into the position they should have, & the coolant fan motor operated normally.
I left it there with the thought that I shall start it again tonight & see if there is a change in idling.
One observation is that with the connector tube that connects the air filter box to the carburetor is in place, I see no way to access the air-fuel mixture screw to adjust that mixture. So, for the present, the air-fuel adjustment screw remains turned out 2-3/4 turns.
Shall report after I start the motor again later today.
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Post by carefulrider on Nov 9, 2014 16:29:42 GMT -6
Hello again all:
Regarding my 2006 model year, JMStar/Jonway VIVA YY250T-2, Flagship-Style body, 244 cc (copy of Honda CN250, upright or vertically oriented) engine; 10" rear wheel:
The motor does not idle smoothly; the air filter &/or air filter box is not connected to the carburetor. The air-fuel mixture screw is turned out 2-3/4 turns.
Immediately upon starting a cold engine & including after it has warmed up, I turn the idle adjustment screw in 1/4 turn, & there is no change in RPM, then suddenly the RPM goes up to beyond idle speed. Same thing when I turn the adjustment screw out 1/4 turn. Then it's too slow & it will die. So what if I turn it 1/8th turn, you say? No change in RPM. So what have I done to remedy this?
1. Cleaned the carburetor three times. All orifices permit daylight to be seen through them. I have not cleaned the anti-backfire section of the carburetor.
2.Checked the fuel petcock in the following manner:
Sucked in on & blew out into the outlet to the intake manifold. No leak in either direction.
Sucked in on & blew out in to the inlet from the fuel tank. No leak in either direction.
Sucked in on the outlet to the carburetor. No leak. Blew out into the outlet to the carburetor. Air moved freely out of the mouth. I believe the petcock is functioning as it should.
The following are additional symptoms:
1.When I spray starting fluid around the intake manifold, the engine RPM reduces.
2. When I remove the vacuum line at the intake mainfold, it is wet around the internal diameter.
3. When I remove the carburetor from the intake manifold, the intake manifold is wet.
I conduct all these tests without the air filter & air fillter box connected to the carburetor.
I don't know what else to do, so your advice & admonishements shall be well received.
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Post by carefulrider on Oct 27, 2014 14:28:22 GMT -6
Thanks again, People. Now it's on to coolant flushing.
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Post by carefulrider on Oct 27, 2014 9:35:41 GMT -6
Greetings All:
Regarding my 2006 model year, JMStar/Jonway VIVA YY250T-2, Flagship style body. 244 cc (copy of Honda CN250, upright or vertically oriented) engine; 10" rear wheel:
I cleaned the carburetor, adjusted the air/fuel mixture screw 2½ turns OUT, & assembled it back on the intake manifold. It started right up & was running smoothly. I had not re-attached the black plastic air filter/cleaner tube to the carburetor air intake. I thought I would need to make further adjustment to the air/fuel mixture.
Suddenly & without warning, a noise similar to backfiring came out of the carburetor air intake. Then it was back to running smoothly. It happened twice.
I have never experienced this symptom, so I have no clue. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.
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Post by carefulrider on Oct 27, 2014 9:11:16 GMT -6
Thanks much. I have placed the order with ScrappyDog.
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