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Post by carefulrider on Oct 22, 2014 14:14:43 GMT -6
Well, I attached a RPM gauge & started the motor; waited till it reached operating temp. Adjusted the RPM to 1860. Then moved the air/fuel mixture screw in one revolution, & then out two revolutions. The RPM did not change.
However, when I disconnected the vacuum hose to the (rubber) intake manifold, the RPM went up by around 500. What does that mean?
I think I am going to be obliged to take off the carburetor & clean it. Don't know how to do it. So it's back to the class room.
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Post by carefulrider on Oct 21, 2014 14:20:46 GMT -6
Greetings all: I have a 2006 JMStar/Jonway VIVA YY250T-2, 244 cc (copy of Honda CN250, upright/vertically oriented) engine.
I'd like to buy a front fairing headlight nose panel, if you happen to have one. Color is unimportant. It looks like the photo below.
Please let me know if you know of a source. Thanks in advance.
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Post by carefulrider on Oct 21, 2014 13:18:55 GMT -6
Okay, thanks people. No resistors. I'll just try another sending unit, & if it doesn't make the pointer go any higher, I'll live with it, as you suggest.
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Post by carefulrider on Oct 19, 2014 7:46:49 GMT -6
Ordered, received & installed a new thermostat & temperature sending unit assembly. The temperature gauge only registers to the first graduation mark, when the fan motor switches on. The temperature gauge pointer never goes beyond & above the first graduation mark. The fan turns on & off regularly. Somewhere I read about connecting resistors to make the temperature gauge appear more realistic. Now I have to find those posts!
Here, below, I've linked to a photo that shows the upper most position of the temperature gauge pointer. When the pointer reaches this position, the fan motor begins to cycle on & off, so the pointer never goes above this position.
Gosh, I've tried to locate those posts on the resistors, & I just haven't been able to find them again. Always something!
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Post by carefulrider on Oct 19, 2014 6:30:19 GMT -6
Thanks both for the reply posts:
Upon closer inspection, I found that I was unable to access the air/fuel adjusting screw from the underneath with a long reach screw driver.
Before I read your posts, I removed the carburetor & turned in the screw until it stopped & then backed it out 1-1/2 turns & replaced the carburetor. The motor accelerates without hesitation when the throttle is opened quickly. Is this the correct adjustment for the air/fuel screw? I'll await your replies before I put plastic panels back.
I have made a note of the idea of rotating the carburetor instead of removing it, to turn the the adjusting screw. Furthermore, I shall try the screwdriver set pictured in the post, if you suggest that additional adjustment is needed.
I think I shall end up riding this scoot next season, as there is still additional work to do on it, & the temperatures are beginning to dip into the 30s here in upstate NY.
Thanks for your instruction. Am learning, with your help.
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Post by carefulrider on Oct 16, 2014 13:05:24 GMT -6
I can offer a solution to the wacky temperature readings: somehow, air is present in the cooling system. If you bleed the air out I feel confident in thinking that the scoot will operate at "normal" temperatures.
However, patience & the ability to follow the procedure without short cuts is needed for a successful outcome. Please follow JR's procedure for bleeding or burping.
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Post by carefulrider on Oct 16, 2014 12:53:20 GMT -6
In the process of trying to get my 2006 JMStar/Jonway VIVA YY250T-2, 244 cc (copy of Honda CN250, upright or vertically oriented) engine to run normally, it's getting close to the time to adjust the air/fuel mixture on the carburetor. This is the carb whose adjusting screw is not on the side, but underneath, facing down toward the ground.
Does anyone have a good way to access the adjusting screw, with the carburetor attached to the intake manifold & the engine?
Otherwise, would it be acceptable to lie the scooter down on its side on the grass, remove the bottom guard or shield & access the screw using a really long length screw driver? I don't even know if there is clear access to the screw head from underneath all the way from say, where the starter motor is. Of course, this would be undertaken with the engine off.
I look forward to your reply posts.
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Post by carefulrider on Oct 15, 2014 7:36:51 GMT -6
Thank you both: I do see where the temperature sending unit & the thermostat are different items. I was able to pull the thermostat housing assembly off with a pair of pliers. Upon examination I saw that the tube section that fits into the engine block was clogged.
So now I think I need to use a flushing compound & flush the engine block out. Shall have to find a flushing compound first. Never done it before, so don't know exactly what flushing compound to look for. Shall muddle through it, I expect.
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Post by carefulrider on Oct 14, 2014 6:57:40 GMT -6
Thanks for the input, Alley: Last eve, I removed the coolant filler cap, started the engine, & immersed a finger into the coolant at the filler neck, as the engine warmed up. The coolant temperature at the filler neck did not rise & remained unchanged until I felt I needed to turn the engine off as I was feeling the radiated heat from the engine on my leg, as I stood beside the scooter; did not want to over heat the engine.
I concluded that the coolant was trapped in the engine block & was not flowing through the thermostat & out to the rubber hose leading to the radiator.
I then removed the rubber hose & found it clogged. Clearly, I needed to remove the thermostat housing to clean it & inspect the thermostat. However do you have any tricks to remove the thermostat housing from the cylinder head? It rotates, but it won't come out of the cyclinder head. Hopefully you have some techniques to get the beasty out!
I now have to learn how to flush a coolant system; never done it.
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Post by carefulrider on Oct 13, 2014 12:02:28 GMT -6
Hello All:
The temperature Gauge on my 2006 JMStar/Jonway VIVA YY250T-2, 244 cc (copy of Honda CN250, upright or vertically oriented) engine does not work. I did find the connector of the sending unit disconnected from the 'pin' on the thermostat assembly at the cylinder head. I pushed the connector over the pin, started the engine, waited 5 minutes while the engine ran, but the gauge did not register any temperature & the pointer did not move at all.
Please suggest what I should do to have an operating temperature gauge again.
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Post by carefulrider on Oct 9, 2014 8:28:28 GMT -6
Well good people: I got the new solenoid & put it in place. Reconnected the connector & cables, & presto, the starter motor turns when the starter switch/button is pressed.
Thanks for your help & encouragement. Of course, the scoot doesn't start, but rather than open yet another thread on scoot not starting, I shall read the many existing related threads & only after testing & checking those components that are recommended, shall I post, if needed. In the meantime, I shall think positively & say that I should get it started based on the many suggestions & diagnoses posted on the forum.
Once again, many thanks for the helpful suggestions. Happy Fall riding. (Wish I could be riding that 250cc instead of attempting to get it started!)
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Post by carefulrider on Sept 21, 2014 14:30:36 GMT -6
Hi folks: on a long distance journey, from the standpoint of suspension, which of the following two scooters is more comfortable to ride?
The style similar to a Jonway yy250t (looks like a Reflex),
or the style similar to a Lance Duke Touring 250/Roketa Bali MC-13 250, like this below:
I look forward to reading your replies & opinions.
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Post by carefulrider on Sept 21, 2014 13:00:25 GMT -6
While waiting for the solenoid relay, I decided to continue with additional testing. As suggested, I connected the red & yellow wire coming to the solenoid from the wiring harness to the red (positive) cable/lead wire of my voltmeter. I connected the black (negative) cable/lead wire of the voltmeter to the same ground that the starter motor is grounded to. I then turned on the ignition switch & the volt meter registered 0.00. I then pressed in the starter button/switch & the reading on the voltmeter was 0.84. I then pressed the brake lever both individually & collectively together, with the starter switch pressed in. The volt meter registered 0.87V. This is less than 1 volt.
Does this indicate that the starter switch needs to be replaced? I do appreciate your help, without which I would not be able to proceed with this repair. Thanks again.
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Post by carefulrider on Sept 20, 2014 9:31:13 GMT -6
Thanks for the assistance. I have ordered a solenoid. I shall be silent for some weeks until it is delivered. Shall continue when it arrives. Enjoy the fall in your neck of the woods.
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Post by carefulrider on Sept 19, 2014 12:22:29 GMT -6
Thanks for your replies & encouragement, people. My home-work for this eve is to check the voltage at the connector, & see if a replacement solenoid will do the needful.
My impression, while working on this scoot with a cfmoto engine, is that it is not mechanic friendly as far as access-to-parts & components goes. Are the 250cc scoots equipped with the linhai engine easier to work on?
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