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Post by racerx125 on Jan 22, 2014 16:23:00 GMT -6
I just finished checking all conenctors and the harness itself and found nothing as for the R/R I am not sure how to check it using multimeter
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Post by racerx125 on Jan 22, 2014 14:09:25 GMT -6
Before my harness got fried my lighting was perfect and bright after my harness got burned and my motorcycle was left parked outside opened up for nature to play with it and when I finally fixed everything my lights where not as bright as before and my headlights are just bright enough to lights 1 meter in front of me on the darkest streets, but before replacing my R/R I will check it because my pockets are currently running low until next month  |
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Post by racerx125 on Jan 22, 2014 13:46:47 GMT -6
I have no idea whether this will add anything to the diagnostic process, but have you put your multimeter on the "out" side of the R/R (wire that goes to battery+ by way of the diode or relay) to see what voltage is being passed thru? If I'm remembering correctly I did that recently with mine and was seeing 13+, a little upward variation but not all that much when I revved the engine. I posted that here and nobody said it was a bad reading, so I'm assuming it was good. I daresay getting rained on was probably not a good thing in general, but on mine the R/R is pretty much a sealed unit except for the connections. I will try and check the R/R using a multimeter and my R/R is those black finned sealed units with 3 yellow and 3 different colors so 6 wire |
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Post by racerx125 on Jan 22, 2014 9:17:43 GMT -6
Alley: for doofuses like me, can you maybe explain WHY it points to the R/R? If it runs with the battery completely out of circuit, clearly the R/R must be putting out juice. Brightening of headlights and instrument lights when he squeezes the brakes seems completely counter-intuitive, as if adding the brake circuit into the "mix" is somehow REMOVING a current leak from the picture, but how the heck can that be? On the road, is the R/R intended to handle all current demands as part of its normal functioning? Or is the R/R just supposed to carry the steady-state load, with the battery picking up the difference when extra gizmos are turned on? Looking at the fusebox and my wiring diagram, I see that "all lights" are supposedly fed from the R/R when the engine is running, but on the other hand there are individual fuses for various lights and gadgets that feed off the battery. Just trying to learn more here, and it's all relevant to my own ongoing charging system issues. Headlights on or off, brights on or off, fan on or off, all are players in my own situation, so I continue trying to get my mind around how all this works. ellpee its true the R/R keps my motorcycle running but without battery in the circuit at the same time with R/R the entire lighting system flickers and dim and my engine almost wants to stall but its bearly hanging. I forgot to emntion that during the months my my motorcycle was left outside parked for harness problems the cover I put on slipped off and it had no fairings and R/R was uncovered when raining started pouring. Could that may affected my R/R? |
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Post by racerx125 on Jan 19, 2014 17:58:33 GMT -6
seems much cheaper and faster to change the front sprocket rather than the rear wheel sprocket. not really made of big pockets anyways |
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Post by racerx125 on Jan 19, 2014 15:01:24 GMT -6
I finally finished cleaning and rewiring harness and connectors on the entire motorcycle its a DF250RTC Brand Dong Fang
and still headlights and instrument lights dim while brake lights and turn signals stay same. I also found that when lights are dimmed during acceleration that if I press the brake handle brake light brights up and so do the headlights
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Post by racerx125 on Jan 17, 2014 21:17:20 GMT -6
well I removed the negative battery cable and and positive cable fuse and it still stayed on but with flickering lights which I assume is normal right?
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Post by racerx125 on Jan 17, 2014 20:08:34 GMT -6
Well I noticed my lights dimming when I start accelerating and come back when I am idling so I checked my battery using a multimeter and when key is closed it reads 13.10 Volts, with engine idling says 12.20, when revving engine to where lights dim a little 6.10 Volts! O.o After i let accelerator go comes back to 12 Volts and lights come back bright. So is my battery or charging system broken?
Battery: Duralast 12V 9Ah
Headlight bulbs are 2 35/35 watt light bulbs
Any ideas? or is my Multimeter crazy?
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Post by racerx125 on Jan 16, 2014 7:11:34 GMT -6
I did not rethreaded but rather I used a larger nut as a washer and was able to tighten the exhaust
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Post by racerx125 on Jan 12, 2014 19:01:29 GMT -6
So, after alot of hassle I finally fixed the stud and im back on the road, but im wondering on what do you guys think if I add an air siren in my motorcycle  I had this siren from when my parents served as police officers in Mexico so I am curious would I get in big trouble if a police officer hears it on my motorcycle? |
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Post by racerx125 on Jan 12, 2014 15:20:32 GMT -6
well my chain says 428H then a 100 which I assume means how many links it has
I'm not sure if this can help me look for a new sprocket with 6 bolts
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Post by racerx125 on Jan 12, 2014 14:56:15 GMT -6
the stud's threads are stripped in a way that when you try to bold the exhaust on it crossthreads itself
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Post by racerx125 on Jan 12, 2014 14:46:06 GMT -6
Well last night my engine wanted to leak air where the exhaust connects with the engine so I told her she couldn't and made her mad so I was fixing her, but eventually she got so mad that she stripped a stud bolt. So now I am so confused on where to get a new one for a CG250 engine
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Post by racerx125 on Dec 29, 2013 23:22:33 GMT -6
WELL YOU COULDS SEE IF YOU BIKE HAS A BIG BORE KIT AVAILABLE ,AN GET MORE HP ,MABEY AN PIPE THAT BREATHS BETTER AN MY GUESS ON SPROCKET BEING SMALLER IF ITS SAY 7 INCH 46 TEETH MOVE AN GET A SMALLER ONE NOT AS WIDE ,HOW MANY TEETH I DONT KNOW ,BUT ALLEYOOP MAY KNOW ALOT MORE ,I KNOW THIS A BIGGER SPROKET GIVES LOW END POWER TO THE REAR WHEEL AN A SMALLER ONE GIVES MORE TOP END POWER WICH EYQUALS SPEED,AN GOING FASTER ,HOW MUCH TIME WILLTELL,BUT THE CHEAPER WAY IS THE SPORKET THEN THE CAN ,THAT SHOULD GET YOU 60MPH well for the big bore kit I cant seem to find it, but as for the sprocket I will try and get some measurements as my sprocket is 46 tooth. Motorcycle is Dongfang 250 rtc |
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Post by racerx125 on Dec 29, 2013 14:58:53 GMT -6
what do you mean by smaller? You mean I need something less than 46t sprocket?
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