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Post by cruiser on Jun 14, 2012 19:03:15 GMT -6
I see the photos, bobf. Very good detail and it looks like you are our seat latch expert. I will have to remember this as I have the same scoot as you. I must give you credit on your tenacity and determination on solving this problem.
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Post by cruiser on Jun 11, 2012 22:17:32 GMT -6
Good to be back ol buddy ! been lurking from time to time. Ive not only had the 150. I even had couple E-ton beamers that I enjoyed building on. Just decided to sell all of them and get back to a two scooter house hold. Makes life much simpler.( And the wife much happier). I really don't see a whole lot of difference thus far in quality between the 2008 and the 2012. They do put the radiator on the front on the 244 cc's now instead of the rear. And the mp3 controls are on the left side so you don't have to take your hand off the throttle to adjust it. No more grommets to bolt on the wind shield, its washered screws now. And I think I will enjoy adjusting valves much more. Congratulations on the new scoot and welcome back. You will also enjoy working on the CVT more (2 bolts). It's nice to see product improvements even if it does take years. I would assume that the radiator you now have is the same as the 257cc engine? This will take some of the load off the charging system. Just in time for summer. Let us now how things go with your new improved 244cc scoot.  |
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Post by cruiser on Jun 6, 2012 21:13:15 GMT -6
Good for you and your Dad, Todd. Sounds like a win-win situation.
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Post by cruiser on Jun 6, 2012 19:52:57 GMT -6
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Post by cruiser on Jun 6, 2012 19:40:55 GMT -6
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Post by cruiser on Jun 4, 2012 12:22:59 GMT -6
The first thing to do is determine where the leak is. It could be from the valve cover gasket or the breather hose is loose or from the drain plug. Generally these are all easy fixes. It could also be leaking from the engine case or even a bad crankshaft seal. These are not so easy to fix. Try to pinpoint the location and that will determine how to fix it.
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Post by cruiser on Jun 2, 2012 21:44:12 GMT -6
Ok i checked the blocking diode plugged in heres what we have with the engine off i read battery voltage on both wires also the same with engine on. I also read 26acv on the red with engine off and on so whats up with that  WELL  maybe if i unhook what me and JR talked about before and see what happens since im reading battery voltage from this thing any idea's As setup to run on a 250cc scoot, what you described would result in a headlights on all the time condition - even with the key off. In your case, it could be reversed wires or even a shorted diode. No AC should be present with the engine off. You have to be careful about grounding the negative meter lead when making voltage measurements, unless it's phase to phase measurements for AC. Like JR said, we need some pictures under the hood or at least each side of the engine. |
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Post by cruiser on Jun 1, 2012 19:54:38 GMT -6
Welcome to the forum, fellow New Englander. New England especially outside the cities has been a hard sell for scoots. There was a dealer in my town, but he went out of business in less than a year which leaves me without a dealer that I know of in a 30 mile radius. This year does seem to be a turning point though. I have seen many more of the 50cc and 150cc Chinese scoots. I'm sure we may even have some scooter clubs around here. Thanks again for joining.
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Post by cruiser on May 31, 2012 22:07:20 GMT -6
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Post by cruiser on May 31, 2012 21:18:18 GMT -6
I purchased the model from Ebay and it lasted a very short time. I don't think it's designed to handle the full power requirements of the 250cc scoots. It might work fine for 150cc scoots (no radiator fan) with maybe one headlight. Also good for people doing the AC to DC conversions on 150cc scoots. The Powersport model looks identical to the OEM in size and is designated for the 250cc models only. The Oregon Motorcycle R/R that Todd and Matt are talking about will handle all the power requirements of the 250cc scoots with ease. This does not necessarily mean that you will get more output from your charging system. A good OEM R/R will allow all of the charging system output to be used by the scooter's electrical system. The problem with the OEM and replacement Chinese R/R's is that they are marginal in performance and are not consistent in output and are not reliable in general. The output of these systems is still marginal regardless of the R/R. A good reliable R/R takes out a known weak point in these systems. |
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Air filter
by: cruiser - May 28, 2012 21:26:09 GMT -6
Post by cruiser on May 28, 2012 21:26:09 GMT -6
It sounds like there may something else going on besides a missing air cleaner. It should be running very lean especially at higher speeds.
You said it seems to be running rich? Unless the main jet was changed to make up for the lean running with out the air filter, and it is too large, then it will really be running over rich with the air filter.
Maybe the air filter was removed because the scoot was running too rich to start with? Did you check to make sure the auto enricher is connected and operating OK? If not, you will be rich all the time.
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Post by cruiser on May 26, 2012 19:57:45 GMT -6
You seem to handle DC readings with you meter OK, so here's one way to check that main fuse. Set the meter to read 20 volts DC and attach the black lead to ground or the negative terminal on the battery. Check both sides of the fuse with the red probe. You should read the battery voltage on both sides of the fuse. If not, then you have a bad connection or the fuse is open. You can check the fuse directly by pulling it and use the ohm function of the meter by putting the probes on either side of the fuse. It should read zero ohms. Most people replace the fuse and fuse holder with a better quality automotive style spade style plug in fuse.
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Post by cruiser on May 26, 2012 19:39:18 GMT -6
so why am i getting nothing on green to yellow on my stator but yellow to yellow reved goes 50+acv The stator is floating which means it has no direct connection to ground. Zero volts is good in this case. One problem that stands out is that the red wire at the R/R does read battery voltage at any time. Also, why is the high beam headlight running on DC on a scooter that many people feel has AC headlights? It would seem like a partial conversion by a previous owner? And, as usual, it's a Jonway so only the great Scooter Gods may know what the actual wiring diagram is. |
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Post by cruiser on May 26, 2012 12:51:49 GMT -6
Welcome to the forum, lennie11b. The 6 wire regulator/rectifier means that you have a full DC system and all the lights work on DC. If only some of the lights come on when the headlight is on, it means there may be an open circuit. With the key turned off, check for battery voltage at the red wire of the plug on the regulator/rectifier (R/R). This is the output of the R/R so when the engine is running the DC voltage should be at least 13.5 volts which you should be able to see also on the positive terminal of the battery. If there is no DC on the red wire, then you have an open circuit between the battery and the R/R. If there is DC, but it does not increase or drops when the engine is running, then there is a problem with the R/R. This could be a problem with the connectors at the R/R. The connector with the 3 yellows sometimes overheats and may not feed AC into the R/R. If the connectors check out OK, then the R/R probably really went south. Let us know how your voltage checks turn out. The ACV measurments on the yellow wires when plugged in , are not really telling you anything . When the AC input to the regulator is connected to the regulator from the stator . The readings are some what wild . The regulator is clamping down the ac to control DCV output , it a balanceing act. What is not needed for DC output will be dumped to ground . I made no mention of doing AC measurements on the stator here. I agree that the measurements should be made with the input connector from the stator disconnected. The reason for measuring AC across the 3 yellow wires is that the stator is normally floating and measuring to ground will not give an accurate reading. Also a defective R/R could influence the readings at the input with the stator connected making it look like a problem with the stator. Also it is my understanding that the regulator controls the output of the rectifier rather than the output of the stator. The stator is always at maximum output. The regulator in an alternator (like in a car) regulates the output of by varying the current through the field coils according to the needs of the battery. |
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Post by cruiser on May 26, 2012 12:20:19 GMT -6
The closest thing I could find for this scoot was the wiring diagram for the 150 Lance Milan on our site (6 wire R/R). However this diagram does not agree with the wiring diagram in the 150 Lance Milan owner's manual. The difference is primarily with the R/R (4 wire R/R). Where did the 6 wire diagram come from?  |
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