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Post by ellpee on Feb 27, 2019 8:31:52 GMT -6
2012 Magnum has been running well since I converted to electric fuel pump, but new issue. Went on a long run yesterday, about 50 miles on paved but often bumpy secondary roads. On the way home, ALL the dashboard indicator lights -- headlights, brights, and turn indicators -- started flickering in unison. Seemed to happen only at speeds above 35 or so, and particularly when pavement was not satin smooth. Kept it slow and nursed it home, but of course need to find and fix the problem, presumably a loose connection somewhere. (Did not, by the way, cause any starting issues, shut it down a couple times on the way home and it started back up just fine. Did notice engine running a little rough when the flickering was going on, though.)
Thing is, I don't know where to start. What would cause ALL those lights to flicker simultaneously? Right handlebar switch controls running lights/headlights/no lights, left handlebar switch sets dim or bright headlights, flashes brights, and activates left or right turn signal. So I can imagine a problem with ONE of those switches might affect ONE of those dash lights, but don't get what in the wiring would send power to all the indicator lights at the same time. Any help appreciated.
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Post by cyborg on Feb 28, 2019 8:00:06 GMT -6
Couple things could cause this issue first off it could be the ground for the whole control pod,,,,or the power supply connector plug is together just enough to be kosher when the road is smooth and is getting jarred when bumpy,(same goes for the ground termination ),,,or your ignition switch is touchy ,,,especially if you have a big ball of keys
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Post by ellpee on Feb 28, 2019 11:19:57 GMT -6
All other thoughts welcome, but it sounds like I'm gonna have to pull the windshield and a bunch of front plastic so I can get at the back of the dashboard, never a fun prospect.
One other factoid that occurred to me: the electric fuel pump causes a wee flicker in the dashboard lights when I first turn the key on and before I hit the starter switch. (But not the indicator lights, just the gauge lighting.) Understandable as the pump starts pumping and drawing power as soon as the key is on, and it goes away as soon as the engine and charging circuit are doing their thing and providing the necessary 12v. But since the new problem also involves flickering lights, wondering if there's a relationship to be explored. More than likely not, just wondering out loud.
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Post by cyborg on Mar 2, 2019 8:45:21 GMT -6
My money is on a connector that's not completely seated or a ground termination not tight or even a fatigued wire but less likely cause the machine is fairly new with so low mileage
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Post by ellpee on Mar 2, 2019 9:44:48 GMT -6
Got all the front plastic off, no obvious bad connections but I'm going to use spray cleaner and then dielectric grease on all of them, then do a test run with the plastic still off. Problem with this issue is, it doesn't happen when the scoot is standing still, have to get out on a bumpy street to see what happens. No shortage of those around my neighborhood though!
No test ride needed after all; checked almost all connectors behind the dashboard, started the scoot, and the flickering (accompanied by rough running) kicked in as soon as I revved it up to what would normally be road speed -- 40-50 mph range. So it's not about bumps so much, but rather about something in the electrical system that starts to complain at higher RPM and shows itself in at least two ways, flickering dash lights and pronounced engine miss. So again I'm not sure what component that might be, and welcome suggestions. R/R maybe? Other?
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Post by cyborg on Mar 4, 2019 8:39:41 GMT -6
Furthering my thoughts on a bad connection,,,and I'm almost convinced it's a wonky ignition switch
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Post by cyborg on Mar 4, 2019 8:59:44 GMT -6
You've probably already have done this but if you haven't get it running and jiggle the key(s) and all wire bundles in the front,,,I'm sure you'll pinpoint the loose connection ,,,as a side if that doesn't do the trick you may have to pull a engine cover and see if the pickup coil is loose or one of its associated plugs
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Post by ellpee on Mar 4, 2019 11:56:17 GMT -6
Well, Part A sounds manageable, Part B begins to sound scary. Will dive into the former and post results results for the benefit of all who come after.
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Post by crwford on Mar 4, 2019 12:40:16 GMT -6
I found my voltage regulator went bad and I lost my lights and a few other things once I replaced it everything was fine.
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Post by ellpee on Mar 4, 2019 14:29:38 GMT -6
Went out just now, fired it up and warmed it up, then ran the RPM up to problem level (flickering lights) while jiggling on the ignition key. Result: all dash indicator lights on continuously and start button won't work at all, so strong indication of problem in ignition switch. Rats, hard to get at, real spaghetti bowl of wires, and of course where to get replacement part. But at this point it does look like a faulty ignition switch might be the culprit. Fooey, those ought to last more than 2500 miles! But okay, now I at least have idea what direction to keep looking. Oh, and by the way, RapidJim says 6-8 weeks for part from Ice Bear due to back order situation. Hmmmm, let me think again, why was it I bought a product from Ice Bear?  Caveat Emptor. |
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Post by cyborg on Mar 5, 2019 7:47:00 GMT -6
Try getting a spray can of contact cleaner with a tube like wd40 comes with,,,put it in the lock and give it a blast,,,I think you may be a happy boy after that
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Post by ellpee on Mar 5, 2019 8:35:45 GMT -6
Actually did that yesterday, no immediate effect, but will check it again this morning.
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Post by ellpee on Mar 5, 2019 17:41:35 GMT -6
No change from spritzing in cleaner. Took off more plastic to try to get to where I could at least SEE, and hopefully remove, the ignition switch. On the Magnum, unfortunately, the electrical switch is integrated with a mechanical cable mechanism that opens the seat compartment if you turn the key counterclockwise. (Has never worked well since Day 1, potential Ice Bear buyers please note.) Haven't entirely figured out the disassembly part yet despite a couple small blood donations along the way, but since I can't ride it I might as well work on it. Silver lining, though, discovered a couple coolant-related rubber hoses that were poorly routed and consequently had kinks in them, so will correct that while I'm struggling with everything else. But Job#1 is getting the ignition switch and associated parts out of there so I can check it over for obvious problems and at least know if it's three wires, four, five, or whatever. The darn seat opener thing unfortunately chains me to Ice Bear for the most part, otherwise there are many, many ignition switches out there on the Internet that might serve as substitutes.
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Post by cyborg on Mar 6, 2019 9:17:56 GMT -6
Id be thinking of a way to get a manual cable routed to get that ignition activation eliminated
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Post by ellpee on Mar 7, 2019 8:23:09 GMT -6
Will give that some thought: pull out the entire Ice Bear thing and replace it with a simple AutoZone key switch and a pull knob to open the seat. Would involve some dashboard remodeling, but I'd never have to deal with this particular problem again. Question would be, will wiring setup on new switch correspond to the old one. Accurate Magnum wiring diagram would be great, but rotsa ruck on that.
Interestingly, Rapid Jim is saying possible R/R problem, R/R guru at Oregon Motorcycle Parts says nope, more likely the switch. Ask any two "experts" and you can expect three answers, I guess. Not to challenge either of them, just interesting how many points of view there can be about a problem.
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