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Post by JR on Sept 4, 2015 5:42:00 GMT -6
Key on or off? That's nuts? Now let me make sure you understand how to test what I want. I want you to take your test light and put one lead of the test light on the Green/yellow on the solenoid pigtail and then put the other lead of the test light on the red/yellow wire of the solenoid pigtail at the same time.
Turn the key on
Press and hold the brake on
Then with the brake still pressed push the start button. You MUST hold the brake on and push the start button together.
The test light should light up.
What I think you are doing is putting one lead of the test light on each wire of the solenoid pigtail and the other lead of the test light to the battery? What makes me think this is we know when you push the start button you are supplying the ground side of the battery, if you had one lead of your test light hooked up to the red/yellow wire and the other lead of the test light hooked up to the positive side of the battery the light would indeed come on even with the key off when you pressed the start button which would be correct. .
If you have this wired like I said and do the test as described above your test light should light up.
JR
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Post by o0ohakko0o on Sept 4, 2015 19:52:30 GMT -6
Getting nothing JR I don't know what to do now...I'm 100% sure all wiring is correct ?
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Post by JR on Sept 4, 2015 20:00:27 GMT -6
You must have a bad switch of some kind. Let's test each side/wire.
Ok first make sure your test light is good, simply put one lead on the positive side of the battery and the other on the negative side to see if it lights up, yea I know this is stupid but things happen.
If your test light tests good then take one lead of the test light and put it on the positive terminal of the battery. Put the other lead on the red/yellow wire. PUSH the START button. If the start button is hooked up correctly then when the button is pressed the light should light up.
Get back to me with the results.
JR
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Post by o0ohakko0o on Sept 4, 2015 20:37:01 GMT -6
Yes that is correct light lights up after that test ( it lights up with key switch on or off )
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Post by JR on Sept 4, 2015 21:20:13 GMT -6
Ok that is correct so now we know the start button is working correctly. Now we are going to test the other wire.
So take and put one of the test light leads on the green/yellow of the solenoid pigtail and the other lead of the test light to the negative terminal of the battery.
Turn the key switch to ON.
Press the brake handle, ( by the way do you have just one of the brake handle switches wired up or both?)
If the system is wired correctly and the brake handle switch is good then the test light should light up.
If you have both switches wired up then you can test both of them one at a time.
If the light will NOT light up then you have one or more of these possibilities:
Wired incorrectly
Bad key switch
Bad brake switch
Blown fuse on RED wire from battery;
Of course we can run tests to see which one it is? We now know the red/yellow wire/start button is working correctly now we got to see about the green/yellow.
JR
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Post by o0ohakko0o on Sept 4, 2015 22:03:32 GMT -6
Ok JR getting no light lighting up when connecting 1 test light wire to negative and the other test light wire to the green/yellow. And I only have the 1 break switch which is wired up there is not another break switch
I have a funny feeling it's the break switch
And i just just bought a brand new break light switch on ebay which will be delivered to me on wednesday 09
Can we run some tests please to eliminate the problem as the wiring is exactly connected as its meant to be
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Post by JR on Sept 5, 2015 5:42:41 GMT -6
YES WE CAN! I suspect the brake switch too!
It's simple unhook the black wire from the brake switch that is coming from the key switch and temporarily hook it up to the green/yellow going to the solenoid relay pigtail and do the exact same test as before using your test light. If it lights up then bingo! it's the brake switch if it doesn't then we either have a bad key switch OR no power =12Vdc to the key switch.
Remember tracking down electrical gremlins is a process of elimination, if one has no power at the final destination you start back tracking until you find the gremlin!.
We're getting close, once we get the start function going we will then start working with the spark ignition so the engine will run, then on to the charging system.
JR
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Post by o0ohakko0o on Sept 5, 2015 5:55:34 GMT -6
Ok JR I again can't thank you enough for all your help as I'm not so smart with this kinda stuff as you can see but at the same time I have been learning heaps from you so thanks again and I will check tomorrow ok as its 10:00pm here in Aus
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Post by o0ohakko0o on Sept 5, 2015 17:46:16 GMT -6
Ok JR i ran the test like you asked me to and yes the test light LIGHTS UP .
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Post by JR on Sept 5, 2015 18:40:05 GMT -6
Awesome! Now plug it into the starter solenoid relay, turn the key on and just bump the start button and let's see if she'll turn over!
Do remember we need to put that brake switch on when it comes in, this is a safety feature and especially good if children are riding it.
Now if it turns over we will start on the spark ignition wiring.
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Post by o0ohakko0o on Sept 5, 2015 19:40:27 GMT -6
You mean plug the red/yellow and green/yellow plug into the pigtail of the starter solenoid and bump the start button ?
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Post by JR on Sept 5, 2015 19:49:15 GMT -6
Yes! Turn the key on and bump the start button. I presume you still have the brake switch jumped because we know it is bad?
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Post by o0ohakko0o on Sept 5, 2015 22:00:22 GMT -6
Perfect bro it does turn over now with that black wire connected to yellow/green its turning over !!! And yes the break switch is jumped @ the moment till I get this new one
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Post by JR on Sept 5, 2015 23:37:32 GMT -6
OK then start circuit is complete. All you have to do now is when the new brake switch comes in is put it back where it goes and hook black to black and green/yellow to green/yellow. When you want to start it you turn the key on. press brake handle and hit start button. Now I need to know this. There should be a wiring section that comes out of the engine, should be 4 to 5 wires and may be one plug with two separate wires or two plugs? I need a picture of this wiring plug/s with wire colors. I've scrolled through your previous pictures and I've spotted the R/R = regulator/rectifier but I haven't seen the CDI or coil. CDI's come in different sizes and looks but the most common looks like this: Also the coil which will have two terminals that are wired and the single large wire that goes to the sparkplug: Here is a picture of both of the common ones: .chinaatvpart.com/images/GELECTRIC-067.jpg" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"> .chinaatvpart.com/images/GELECTRIC-067.jpgJR |
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Post by o0ohakko0o on Sept 6, 2015 0:42:21 GMT -6
5 wires coming from out of the ENGINE are Yellow , Yellow , Blue/White , Black/Red , Solid Green.  Regulator/Rectifier Coming out of the plug there are 4 wires and the color of these wires are Solid Red , Solid Yellow , Solid Green , Solid white  CDI Coming out of the plug there are 5 wires and the color of these wires are Blue/White , Solid Green , Black/White , Black/Yellow , Black/Red  COIL The coil has 2 wires and those colors are Solid Green , Black/Yellow  ( when i dismantled the wiring harness i tagged a couple of wires as it may help and what i tagged was) REGULATOR/RECTIFIER - going to engine Solid Yellow , Solid White CDI - 2 of the wires going to the engine Blue/White , Black/Red COIL - 2 wires going to cdi and they were Black/Yellow , Solid Green. |
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