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Post by vabeachscooter on Oct 28, 2014 19:55:43 GMT -6
The charging system on my scooter is no longer functional. I understand from reading previous posts that there are four main components to the charging system: the regulator/rectifier, blocking diode, stator, and the CDI. The engine that I have is the vertical model which I believe is the 244cc engine. With the engine off and the key out of the ignition the voltage reading on the battery is 12.25, at idle it is 11.0x, and running up to 4000 rpm the reading is 12.0x. In order for the battery to charge it needs to be at least 13.6 volts. Does this indicate which part is at fault? If not, what should the readings be on the individual components? I will be taking all of the plastics off again this weekend. I have replaced the brake lights with LEDs and I replaced the 35w incandescent bulbs with a 35w HID headlight system. All of this was done before the charging system went bad. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Post by alleyoop on Oct 28, 2014 22:58:12 GMT -6
Usually it is the R/R that is the culprit for a no charge problem the only other problem would be the feed from the stator. If all other functions work on the scoot that is it. And I would put money on the R/R that is the problem. But if you want to be sure you can test the Stator, to make sure it is putting out to the R/R if it is then its your R/R.
You can check the stator set the meter to AC volts and test the yellow wires label them 1, 2,3 or remember the seq. Then test 1 to 2 , 1 to 3 and 2 to 3 and the readings should be from 50 to 100 Vac on each wire. The reading should be pretty close on all three wires if not then the stator is bad otherwise it is your R/R. Alleyoop
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Post by vabeachscooter on Oct 29, 2014 18:20:33 GMT -6
Thanks for the information. Everything else on the scooter works just fine. I saw an R/R on the Oregon Motorcycle Parts web page and was wondering if this is the correct one. The part number is VRRPM3H.
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Post by ellpee on Oct 29, 2014 20:15:42 GMT -6
I have a 2011 Roketa that's basically the same scooter under another name, and have also been talking to Oregon. That is indeed the one they recommend for my scooter, and presumably for yours too. Many here say the R/R's from Oregon can't be beat; the $95 price has scared me off up to now, but I have continuing problems with a weak charging system, so am about to bite the bullet and buy one. Good luck with yours.
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Post by JR on Oct 30, 2014 8:25:04 GMT -6
You are correct on 3 out of 4 the CDI has nothing to do with the charging system, if the scooter runs it is OK. Now on the blocking diode you can do a simple test to see if it is good or not. The blocking diode is for one thing and one thing only to allow charging voltage to go to the battery from the R/R and to block battery voltage from feeding back to the charging system.
To test: Simply by unplugging it and jumping the plug to it will tell us if the rest of the system is OK. Don't panic as soon as you jump it the headlights will come on. Start the scooter and take another reading on the battery at idle and at a higher RPM. If you have good readings then it's bad and needs to be replaced. If the readings do not change at all then it's down to the R/R or stator.
JR
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Post by ellpee on Nov 1, 2014 9:25:36 GMT -6
I'll throw in another 2c worth: some (I'm one) have replaced the blocking diode with a simple relay, costs just a couple bucks at AutoZone or wherever. Does more or less the same thing, when key is turned on relay closes and lets power through to the battery (except of course that there isn't any until the motor actually starts). Only thing is that the headlights go on immediately, with the diode only when the motor is running.
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Post by vabeachscooter on Nov 21, 2014 15:16:09 GMT -6
I received and installed the new R/R and everything seems to be working. All voltages are where they're supposed to be! Since this has been an ongoing problem with the battery severely being drained by riding and charging every night the battery no longer holds a charge longer than one ride. I have an Autozone near my house, aside from measuring the battery and finding one that fits, does anyone know which battery I should get? I would prefer an AGM or Gel Cell if at all possible.
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Post by ellpee on Nov 22, 2014 16:35:41 GMT -6
If you can afford it, go for one with more amp hours. Batteries Plus (or I guess nowadays they're Batteries and More or something like that) has several in the 14aH range, various quality grades and warranties, in the $80 to $120 range if I remember correctly. I'm sure there are other sources as well, that just happens to be one I checked out.
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Post by rks on Nov 23, 2014 6:34:44 GMT -6
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