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Post by insanetexan on Aug 24, 2014 16:48:04 GMT -6
Lets start by saying that I printed out the Schematics for the Linhai engine because of charging issues so I could trace my wires around. I have found something odd that is not making any sense to me. Question is I was under the thinking that the electric choke was a 12 volt item. Upon removing the wiring harness and exposing all the wires I find that the choke is actually wired into the main wires from the stator so it is receiving 60+ volts from it. On the wiring diagram the pig tailed yellow wire shows to be running to Liquid Adding Valve ((Electric Choke) in my rewording for the laymen out there.). If the choke is 12 volt then can it be rewired into a keyed 12 volt wire in the harness and the extra yellow wire be eliminated? That way I can just plug the Stator straight into the R/R by re-heading the Stator wire with a male plug.
On another note I have also removed the grey/white wire from the CDI plug as it was not in use. It ran to a plug of wires that was not in use (the plug I believe was for the alarm/remote start) which was removed from the scooter before I bought it.
Thanks in advance for help.
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Post by ellpee on Aug 24, 2014 19:01:22 GMT -6
Wow, I don't have an answer, but you've taught me something I didn't know. I looked at the wiring diagram I normally refer to when chasing electrical gremlins, and sho' nuff, the "liquid adding valve" on my Roketa with the Honda clone engine is also fed off one of the yellow A/C wires from the stator, rather than a 12v DC source. Who knew? One wonders why.
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Post by JR on Aug 25, 2014 6:15:11 GMT -6
It can be wired to a direct 12Vdc source but it is wired to the stator output wire to help separate the load of the electrical system, either way works.
Yes the grey/white was engine kill wire from remote/alarm system.
JR
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Post by insanetexan on Aug 25, 2014 6:21:43 GMT -6
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Post by ellpee on Aug 25, 2014 7:45:33 GMT -6
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Post by insanetexan on Sept 3, 2014 16:20:51 GMT -6
Ok so I went through the wiring and found no problems. I then hooked the auto choke to a keyed hot wire and connected the stator straight into the R/R. Seems to be the charging is working again, but what puzzles me is why does the plug from the stator to the r/r get so hot you can not touch it? I also hooked up the new LED headlights and now when I flip for bright lights my radiator fan comes to a screeching halt (as in it stops working). Have I hooked something up wrong or is it due to the headlights being LED ? The amp draw on the headlights are just 1.2 amps on low beam and 2.8 amps on high. (if that helps).
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Post by JR on Sept 4, 2014 8:53:29 GMT -6
If it is so hot you can't touch it then you've got a very bad connection, most likely a ground somewhere or one bad leg on the stator that's loading it up. They will get very warm, lots of amp load but not so hot you can't touch it. Fan dying with lights on also says bad connection, when the lights are on they are pulling all of the amps it's giving and leaving none for the fan.
Time to test the voltage output of all 3 legs on the stator. Seems to be charging? What is the reading at the battery at idle and then revved up?
JR
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Post by insanetexan on Sept 4, 2014 10:29:53 GMT -6
OK just ran the battery test and the results are; Idle @ 15.3 volts and at Max RPM 13.0 +/- .5 volts.(there are no turn signals or rear lights for the draw on the battery this also does not include the radiator fan running).
The stator test is; Legs 1-2 = 41.8 - 42.5 volts Idle and 124 volts at Max Rpm
Legs 1-3 = 46 to 47 volts Idle and 144 volts Max RPM
Legs 2-3 = 45 to 46 volts Idle and 133 volts Max RPM
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Post by JR on Sept 4, 2014 19:04:26 GMT -6
Leg 1 to 2 concerns me and are you saying the charge voltage is going down from 15.3 volts at idle to 13.5 volts at higher rpm? Point blank that's not right. Also did you test the stator legs with the R/R unhooked?
JR
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Post by insanetexan on Sept 4, 2014 22:01:55 GMT -6
Yes the voltage is dropping at the battery when revved up. The drop at the battery when revved up just does not sound right to me as well. Not sure what could be causing that. And yes the R/R was unhooked from the stator for the test.
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Post by JR on Sept 5, 2014 5:54:18 GMT -6
OK two more questions, what is the voltage of them battery with the scooter off, in other words is it fully charged? Second is do you have the blocking diode?
JR
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Post by insanetexan on Sept 5, 2014 7:09:26 GMT -6
Just checked the voltage on the battery and it is @ 12.69 volts with the scooter turned off (even after running it last night to do the stator test), and yes there is a blocking diode connected.
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Post by JR on Sept 6, 2014 16:22:03 GMT -6
Then you need to start looking for a voltage ground problem. Your battery is charged and when the fan comes on the bottom falls out plus the negative charging at higher RPM says this too, other than that that one leg is going bad? I would check the headlight system you put in first and then check the ground cable on the negative side of the battery where it hooks to the frame.
JR
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Post by insanetexan on Sept 9, 2014 12:14:02 GMT -6
I went back and rechecked everything as far as the wiring harness and that is all good. But I do believe I may have found the culprit. I had ordered a new R/R for good measures and decided to change it out and try that, put it in and started the engine and let it run and next thing I know one of the wires is burning off. Shut engine off and pulled R/R back off and found that the wires on the new R/R wire not installed correctly. The wires on the connections were not even in the connectors. All they had done was put the outer casing in the coupler and pinched it in place. So I fixed all three of those wires correctly and tried it again. This time there was no wires burning and my voltage was running around the 15 volt mark steady, then all of a sudden the voltage dropped again back to 12 volts. Ok this is where I finally get good readings, I was jiggling the wires in the stator to R/R connection and was getting my voltage readings to rise and fall between 15 volts and 12 volts. SO just for the fun of it I removed the plastic wire holders and connected all three wires together and just let them dangle there, started the engine and the same thing so I started disconnecting the wires one at a time to see if there was and difference. That's where I found that if by disconnecting one wire from the plug and only running on two legs of the stator then I could maintain almost 15 volts both on idle and at higher RPMs. Now the fun is going to begin with having to remove the stator and quite possibly replacing it.
Thanks JR for the help and will post results when I get a new Stator and replace it. First I have to find out which stator is the correct one so I don't order the wrong one.
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Post by JR on Sept 10, 2014 11:22:48 GMT -6
I was afraid of this, keep us posted.
JR
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