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Post by 7ken on May 9, 2014 4:58:03 GMT -6
I recently bought a 2005 Suzuki GS 150. After checking the electrical I found the 8pin CDI (using only 6pins) is bad. Not being able to find a manual or any wiring schematics I learned why, it's was made in Pakistan.
I’ve taken most of the harness apart in hopes of understanding and adapting a "standard" 6pin DC CDI.
The problems I'm having are, 1st the pulse coil (pickup) wires “2” both go into the CDI. On most others and aftermarket ones I've seen there is only one wire going to the CDI. When I follow my wires one goes to the CDI and the other goes to the CDI and the ignition switch, it is grounded when the switch is off. There is also a wire going into the starter solenoid from the ignition switch?
orange ~ ign +
gr + y ~ ign -
bk + wh ~ gnd -
bl + wh ~ coil +
gr ~ pickup sensor
bl ~ “ “ & ign -
I found a cheap 6pin DC CDI, I would guess by it's low price and lack of brand or part #'s it's from China. I had come across a wiring diagram that showed one pulse coil wire going into the regular place on the CDI and unlike others it showed the other going into the "gnd" right below it. I thought lets give it a try and the bike fired right up. The problem is I'm pretty sure it's not advancing.. Any ideas?
Thanks..
Ken
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Post by tvnacman on May 9, 2014 5:45:13 GMT -6
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Post by 7ken on May 9, 2014 5:57:20 GMT -6
0.7vac on both the blue & green wires.
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Post by 7ken on May 9, 2014 6:04:19 GMT -6
This is the first site where I have seen mention of the wire going to the start solenoid. I had wondered why there was no "safety" to the start system, like brake on.. (need a smiley with a light bulb). Since the neutral light is only that this bike would appear to start in gear? Not coo!, it would be nice to change that. At least if the brake is on that would help, figures it's the one wire I didn't use,  BUT need to! This "transplant" is getting more complicated than I had expected. |
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Post by JR on May 9, 2014 14:15:39 GMT -6
It would be simple to fix the start system through the brake and if you're willing to do some re-wiring we can convert it to a standard 5-wire CDIU system but you would need to change the coil as well.
JR
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Post by 7ken on May 9, 2014 14:51:44 GMT -6
It would be simple to fix the start system through the brake and if you're willing to do some re-wiring we can convert it to a standard 5-wire CDIU system but you would need to change the coil as well. JR It was originally wired with that circuit and I just taped it off so I believe putting it back in will be fairly simple now that I understand it. (read another of your posts) thanks.. Better if I can wire it through the neutral wire/light but that's not a priority right now. Understanding the the pulse coil wiring, knowing how to connect it using only one wire to the CDI if possible would be a big help. I'm pretty sure even though it's running I have it wired wrong since there is no advance. Curious why I would need to change the coil? & would there be other advantages to doing it "that" way? Ken First bike I've ever had where I couldn't find a manual or wiring schematic. |
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Post by alleyoop on May 9, 2014 15:08:28 GMT -6
How do you know there is no Advance, and normally the stock CDI's DO NOT ADVANCE they are timed at a fixed position.
Alleyoop
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Post by alleyoop on May 9, 2014 15:15:19 GMT -6
Put up a picture of your CDI with the wires plugged in to see the COLOR of the wires and where they are plugged into on the CDI. Alleyoop Use this it is free and easy to use: 1. Click on this link: tinypic.com/index.php2. Click on Browse, that will link to your computer. 3. Find what you want to load. 3. Click on the name of the picture 4. Click on OPEN 5. Click on UPLOAD 6. Click on the LINK that starts with IMG. 7. RIGHT CLICK and CLICK on COPY 8. THEN Come here to your THREAD ON DOC. 9. RIGHT CLICK and CLICK ON PASTE. Alleyoop |
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Post by JR on May 9, 2014 21:14:02 GMT -6
It would be simple to fix the start system through the brake and if you're willing to do some re-wiring we can convert it to a standard 5-wire CDIU system but you would need to change the coil as well. JR It was originally wired with that circuit and I just taped it off so I believe putting it back in will be fairly simple now that I understand it. (read another of your posts) thanks.. Better if I can wire it through the neutral wire/light but that's not a priority right now. Understanding the the pulse coil wiring, knowing how to connect it using only one wire to the CDI if possible would be a big help. I'm pretty sure even though it's running I have it wired wrong since there is no advance. Curious why I would need to change the coil? & would there be other advantages to doing it "that" way? Ken First bike I've ever had where I couldn't find a manual or wiring schematic.
Missed that I thought it wasn't running because the CDI didn't match up and you was wanting to replace the OEM CDI with another system?
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Post by 7ken on May 9, 2014 23:04:42 GMT -6
"Original" 8pin (6wire)  "Transplant" 6pin (5wire)  Wiring in use now. VDO ~ 12vdc orange from key 5W ~ unused IGN ~ bl + wh Between PC- & VDO is gnd ~ bk + wh PC+ ~ green PC- ~ blue ~~~~ the disputed wire that shows only gnd on most schematics.  I have only seen this wiring diagram one time and the link to it goes no-where so I have no idea what bike it comes from. Most all the wiring diagrams I've seen for the 6pin 5wire don't use a 2nd pickup wire. In my case the blue wire but it is marked as a 2nd gnd... Since I can't find any info on wiring the pulse coil and understand now that there are many different configs available I've come to the conclusion this "transplant" while it will allow for the motor to start and run nicely up until around 3k rpm will not work. I don't believe it has a "map" advance circuit it it.. |
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Post by alleyoop on May 9, 2014 23:10:18 GMT -6
I agree if it does not want to rev past 3K.
Alleyoop
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Post by 7ken on May 9, 2014 23:10:41 GMT -6
Missed that I thought it wasn't running because the CDI didn't match up and you was wanting to replace the OEM CDI with another system?
No you got it right. I am trying to use a different CDI. I was just saying that the original harness has the safety (brake on) wiring that originally ran into the CDI. Now that I understand it's purpose I can wire it back into the system. I believe independent of the CDI... |
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Post by 7ken on May 9, 2014 23:47:52 GMT -6
How do you know there is no Advance, and normally the stock CDI's DO NOT ADVANCE they are timed at a fixed position. Alleyoop I'm not sure I understand this. A 4 stroke engine running from 800 to 8k rpm with no advance? |
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Post by alleyoop on May 10, 2014 0:10:48 GMT -6
They advance but only about 1-2 degrees, not much at all and they jump around a little. If you have a timing light put it on and you will see. They do have advaning CDIs that are FIXED advanced and also like the one I have on it advances starting around 3K but is retarded for start ups so it it easy on your starter clutch.
Alleyoop
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Post by 7ken on May 10, 2014 0:39:45 GMT -6
They advance but only about 1-2 degrees, not much at all and they jump around a little. If you have a timing light put it on and you will see. They do have advaning CDIs that are FIXED advanced and also like the one I have on it advances starting around 3K but is retarded for start ups so it it easy on your starter clutch. Alleyoop I can't tell the advance of this bike but I guess if I keep searching I can learn the Comp Ratio etc and an approximate advance but I would think at minimum 10 degrees. This is the problem when no specs are available. I know this engine was made in China for Suzuki, put on a Pakistani bike and labeled differently depending on the country of sale. I also know unless this project begins to see light it will be scraped. An original CDI ordered from China and maybe in a month or so I could check the advance curve. Depressing |
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..BAD TO THE BONE..