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Post by shanemac on Apr 16, 2014 19:07:18 GMT -6
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Post by JR on Apr 16, 2014 19:40:06 GMT -6
 Can you send me a picture of your CDI and the wire colors going to it? Now when you say power to it but no pulse from stator are you referring to the wire that comes from the stator to the CDI? If so this wire will only have 0.5 to 2.5 Vac max with the engine turning over. JR
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Post by shanemac on Apr 16, 2014 21:53:34 GMT -6
First thing in the a.m. I will get some pics. I included a link of what my CDI box looks like. There are 6 pins but only 4 wires in the plug.
The wire colors:
Black/yellow
Black
Red/white
Green
As to the power issue:
I didnt have a test light so I made one using a 12volt light bulb (two wires attached). The bulb lit super bright on the power side of coil. I did the same thing on pulse side (neg/positive) and got nothing. I was hoping the bulb would flash but did not.
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Post by shanemac on Apr 16, 2014 22:04:13 GMT -6
I also wanted to add, the stand kill switch was bypassed long ago.
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Post by alleyoop on Apr 16, 2014 22:51:54 GMT -6
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Post by JR on Apr 17, 2014 7:55:02 GMT -6
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Post by shanemac on Apr 17, 2014 10:27:12 GMT -6
Okay got a few snap shots.
postimg.org/image/8h4cgk0e5/
postimg.org/image/6174gg7p9/
postimg.org/image/5cy9xi8zh/
Wow. I searched ebay for three hours trying to find that CDI box. LOL THANK YOU
I used "6 pin CDI" and it never showed.
Tried to upload photos but did'nt work. Posted them online.
I will recheck the red and white wire to see if it has any voltage.
The coil is only a year old but you never know.
One thing I wanted to add. Its been having problem for a while. Would run fine for an hour then just lose spark on the road and die. Letting it sit for an hour and it usually starts right back up.
The kill switch on dash was also bypassed.
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Post by shanemac on Apr 17, 2014 11:45:47 GMT -6
Used the multi meter on the red/white wire and got some odd results.
Used DCV on meter
With key off got 0.00 Key on got 0.25. When I crank the engine, voltage starts dropping.
I REALLY appreciate all the help. If we can get this thing running, I will be MORE then happy to donate A $50 bill for website costs! Cheaper then going to a shop!
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Post by shanemac on Apr 17, 2014 12:10:43 GMT -6
Got plenty of voltage on the power side.
I went ahead and traced the red/white trigger wire and ground into the stator case and tested the wires there. I am getting no voltage while cranking. I am getting a .05-.25 with just the key on/off.
I'm guessing the stator is bad?
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Post by JR on Apr 17, 2014 12:53:33 GMT -6
You test the pulse signal wire red/white using the AC setting on the meter, not DC. It should have very little voltage as low as 0.5 volts to 2.5 volts.
The scooter dying with no spark after it gets hot is the classic CDI heating up and cutting out. Once it cools it works again. Actually new a guy once that got out and had this happen and he stopped at a café and got a small bag of ice and wrapped it and made it home! LOL
JR
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Post by shanemac on Apr 17, 2014 18:08:03 GMT -6
I ordered the CDI. Have to wait a couple weeks for it to get here.
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Post by shanemac on May 5, 2014 12:11:02 GMT -6
The CDI box arrived today! STILL NO SPARK! Wasted $30 buying it from China.
I rechecked the red and white trigger wire and I am getting some mixed results. At first, the voltage only showed AFTER I stopped cranking. Is that the norm? Got it up to about 2 volts.
I retested the coil and i am getting around 20,00 ohms at the negative/positive and on the secondary(spark plug cap -/+.
I tested the spark plug electrode (prob on each end) and am getting around 500 ohms at 20k (200 dont work on meter/meter is messed up).
I am OFFICIALLY lost...
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Post by alleyoop on May 5, 2014 12:23:56 GMT -6
Are you sure you are not getting SPARK after you ride it and it dies on you? From what you mentioned that it starts back up after a cool down, it sure is acting like your valves are not sealing and need to be adjusted. After a ride they get really hot and when coming to a stop the motors will usually die then they will not start until a cool down.
Just to make sure that the plug is NOT firing. You have taken the SPARK PLUG out and Grounded it to the MOTOR and cranked it over right to see if its sparking right? IF SO then also check the ground wire from the motor to the frame if the ground wire is broken or bad that will also cause a no spark. Also test the SPARK PLUG to see if it fires when holding it to the FRAME and see if it sparks there.
Alleyoop
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Post by shanemac on May 5, 2014 12:51:09 GMT -6
I have'nt gotten ANY spark since a couple months ago. I started it up for the first time this year in february. DAMN, i just remembered something that I forgot. When i pushed the button, it fired right up BUT it was at FULL throttle. Had to shut it back off. Pulled the throttle cable from carb, same thing. NEVER did that before.
Anytime i had a no spark issue, I ALWAYs grounded the plug to frame first thing. Had no spark ALL occassions. I got brave today and held the plug in my hand while cranking. NOTHING. It died several times on the side of the road and was able to give it 15-1 hr and it would start back up (last year).
I have checked every single connection point. All the spades are shiny and fit tight. Nothing looked burned.
Edit: I did adjust the valves last year. They both make a little tick when you wiggle them. So I know they are not over tightened.
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Post by shanemac on May 5, 2014 13:07:33 GMT -6
Not sure if this matters..... I also had a coolant leak on the head gasket last year so i changed it. Ran pretty good most of the summer. I also noticed that when I was checking spark (last year) it was VERY faint. Had to put it in the shade to see it.
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.wildfiremotors.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage_hardware&product_id=3753&category_id=59&manufacturer_id=0&option=com_virtuemart&vmcchk=1
..BAD TO THE BONE..