Please, Need Help TaoTao Paladin 2011 *LONG STORY SORRY* By 2wheel0rnot2wheel (Read 738 times)

[2wheel0rnot2wheel]

Hello everybody,
    I am new to this forum; but I joined because I seen a lot of helpful advice on it. You see the problem is that my TaoTao CY150-A has been giving me trouble since I acquired it. I got it from a long time friend of the family for free because He doesn't ride it (He has three other scooters.) The back round story I got from him is that he rode it once or twice, there was a problem and he sent it to a scooter shop to fix it. He tells me the guy messed it up. He didn't drive it since. It was sitting outside w/o a cover for about 2 years. I have had it for about a week.
    As soon as I got the scooter I did a oil change and noticed a leak from the bottom of the block. It is from the center kick stand constantly coming in contact with it. It literally scraped so much that it made a pin prick of a leak in the block, it looks like this (   __|  \__   ). I bought JB Weld and I am going to drain the oil and let it drip out over night and try and seal it. (Y/N?)
    I got it registered and took it for a spin to my Wife's house to pick her up and show her. It would not idle and still does not idle. I pull the throttle a little at stop to keep engine on. I took her shopping and went out side to run to the store because women take forever to shop. I tried and failed horribly to correct the time on the cluster, turned the key, put off the kill switch and pressed the electric start...Nothing. Turns out my fuse blew. I bought a box of fuses. It blew the 5Amp fuse, a 10Amp, and started on a 20Amp, I turned the engine off confident that I fixed the issue. I was wrong. I walked it 4 miles to my house.
    I fixed the issue by taking out the brake sense from my back brake and leaving it hanging. (NOTE: My front brake does not trigger the brake lights.) Rode it and the fuse keep blowing and I kept replacing it. Finally the fuses weren't fixing the problem. I took off the casing and found the wire burnt apart, I stripped the case from the wire and twisted together covering with electrical tape. Voila! It works.
    For a little while anyway, the fuse keeps blowing. (NOTE: The fuse never blew nor did I have any problems when I rode by myself, only when my wife was on the bike did it short out.) I was leaving her house yesterday and noticed my dashboard wasn't lit when I was driving ; however, I did start it electrically. I figured fuse blew so I pulled over to replace it only to find out it didn't blow. I put the key back it and turned to on and I had no acknowledgment on the cluster and my rear light wasn't on. I kick started it and carefully rode home.
    Today, I took apart the body to find out whats wrong, nothing visible I could see.  I took apart the re-fused the rear brake light. Nothing. I moved the front brake sensor around and it seemed to have fixed it. I checked all the wires and saw some exposed and put electrical tape on them. The cluster did not register again. I realized the ground wire was on the bolt going to the block that would not screw in so I moved it to the fuel pump. ( Bad Idea??). IT WORKED!!!!!!. I drove it all day today and didn't have one problem....Until I went to pick my wife up.
    Key in the ignition on the ON position, cluster lit up and gauges reading accurately (Except for my speedometer and odometer because they never worked) I waited for my girl. She sat on the back of the bike and every needle dropped and cluster went dead. My blinkers work; as well as, my from head light. No rear light, horn, or brake light. Head down in disappointment I told her I couldn't take her out and I went home by kick start.

       So now I bought a multimeter and a tester thing earlier when I was out. I'm pretty sure I have a short somewhere; however, I don't know what I'm doing. I am sorry for such a long story and I hope it wasn't too boring. I wanted to give you as much information as I could.

Also I bought a highbeam because there wasn't one. When I attached it there are two wires and three prongs on the bulb. I attach the green wire to the prong on the side and the other wire to the one to the prongs that were next to each other. I don't know if that makes a difference. It was shorting before I got the light.

[alleyoop]

Since it blows the fuse when your girl gets on the back You need to check the wires in the back. When she gets on and weight is either pinching a wire or making it ground out. But I bet it blows only when you do pull the breaks and it shorts out.
Also only put in a 10amp-15amp fuse a 20 amp is to big and will allow to much juice to be drawn and will blow things out.

As far as needing to give it throttle to keep it running at stop signs TWO possible things One the Valves need to be adjusted and TWO the carbs PILOT jet and passage are CLOGGED sitting out side for two years. So a Carb cleaning is in the works.
Alleyoop

[tvnacman]

Al do you know any guys in New York that might be able to help him get this fixed ?

John

[2wheel0rnot2wheel]

Alleyoop, Thanks for your reply,

I'm not exactly sure what to look for as far as looking in the back. I just bought a multimeter and a volt circuit tester.
I adjusted the valves a couple days ago I set intake and exhaust to .05 but I didn't recognize a difference. I also do not know what they are exactly supposed to be set to.

[2wheel0rnot2wheel]

tvnacman I appreciate the request; however, I live in Florida lol

[tvnacman]

I do the valves .004" for both . I would look at the wire bundle see if there are any rub marks anywhere ,pay close attention to where the frame moves .

John

[2wheel0rnot2wheel]

I will check that out in morning. The lowest my fuel feelers go is .04 is that what you meant?

[alleyoop]

Does your feeler gauge have .08 and .10? if so use the .08 for both which comes out to be .004 inchs.

Looking in the back look for where the seat moves down when weight is put on it and check any wires that may get pushed or pinched with someone on the back. Look around the shocks in the back for wires going to your rear lights etc. I think that is where some wire or wires are being moved and shorting out by your rear lighting.
Alleyoop

[2wheel0rnot2wheel]

It does have .08 and .1

So instead of setting both to .05, I should set both to .08 ? Do you believe that will fix my idle problem? Do either of you know how I could find exactly what it should be? Also how tight am I supposed to re-tighten the bolt?

Sorry for all the questions.
One more thing though, how does the .10 come into play?

[alleyoop]

Just about all 150cc+ scoot the intake is usually set at .004 inchs or .08mm some like to adjust the EXHAUST valve a little wider to .10 which is .005 inchs because that is the one that tightens 99.9 percent of the time because it takes a lot of heat. The intake not so much because it gets air and cool fuel to cool the valve.

As far as if it will fix your idle Adjusting the Valves is the first thing then if still some problem then the CARBs Fuel Ratio Mixture needs to be adjusted. Many start adjusting the carb first then find out the valves need adjusting and what happens is they then have to go back and re-adjust the carb. So do the valves first then if need be the carb.
Alleyoop

[2wheel0rnot2wheel]

Also how should I clean the Pilot Jet ?

[alleyoop]

Here you go:
Alleyoop

[2wheel0rnot2wheel]

I cleaned the carb completely and adjusted the valves like you said, I haven't found the short I don't think. I noticed a bunch a wires twisted in the harness underneath the foot rest for passenger, there where 4 wires twisted to a ground wire and a couple others spliced together with solder. I unwrapped and re wrapped them. I am currently changing the position once again of my ground to the intake manifold. I am leaking fuel some how all over the place and was soaking the ground wire. I just sealed the hole on my block 5 minutes ago, ISHALLAH it will be fine after it has hardened.

I'm pretty much just wrapping wires that are showing the bare wire regardless of where they are located. Any advice on finding the short ??