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Won't crank
by: 58george58 - Jul 21, 2013 11:33:42 GMT -6
Post by 58george58 on Jul 21, 2013 11:33:42 GMT -6
Hello
2008 250cc Shen / The 30A/ 32V fuse blew coming from my positive battery terminal. Found exposed wires touching at start button taped so they didn't touch. Tried to start, fuse doesn't blow any more but scooter won't start, any suggestions anyone?
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Won't crank
by: alleyoop - Jul 21, 2013 12:52:29 GMT -6
Post by alleyoop on Jul 21, 2013 12:52:29 GMT -6
WOW!! 30A Fuse usually you only find 20A fuses and those are usually are mounted on the SOLENOID. Check for spark it may have blown your CDI, take the boot cap off the plug and stick a spare plug in the boot and hold it against the valve cover or motor and see if it sparks. Then hold it on the FRAME and see if it sparks. Alleyoop
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Won't crank
by: richardthescooter3 - Jul 22, 2013 8:12:28 GMT -6
Post by richardthescooter3 on Jul 22, 2013 8:12:28 GMT -6
If the fuse is to many amps, would that make a difference?
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Won't crank
by: 58george58 - Jul 22, 2013 18:15:53 GMT -6
Post by 58george58 on Jul 22, 2013 18:15:53 GMT -6
[replyingto=richardthescooter3]richardthescooter3[/replyingto]I've had the scooter for two years, this is the first time that there's been trouble with the fuse. thanks, though I was thinking it was kind of a large value of amps.
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Won't crank
by: tvnacman - Jul 22, 2013 18:21:26 GMT -6
Post by tvnacman on Jul 22, 2013 18:21:26 GMT -6
Did the diagram help ?
John
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Won't crank
by: 58george58 - Jul 23, 2013 15:45:41 GMT -6
Post by 58george58 on Jul 23, 2013 15:45:41 GMT -6
I have not had a chance to compare the wiring yet I'll post when I do , thanks.
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Won't crank
by: 58george58 - Jul 23, 2013 16:19:52 GMT -6
Post by 58george58 on Jul 23, 2013 16:19:52 GMT -6
I took off the spark plug to inspect it, looks kinda burnt, not melted but blackish in color. I inspected the spark plug wire which is connected to the coil, the wire came apart just past the spark plug cap. Inside were two bare wires that look like their suppose to wrap around a screw when twisted together. I twisted the wires on to the screw and secured the connection, then I checked the connectivity with a multi-meter using the ohms setting. From where the spark plug connects inside the cap to the coil leads both wires read approx. 7.8 ohms, but 000 ohms across the coil leads themselves which means the leads are shorted . Usually you would have infinite resistance across two wire leads but I'm not sure with a coil if this is normal or not. I checked the diagram but can't really be sure. I think tomorrow I'll replace it and go from there.
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Won't crank
by: alleyoop - Jul 23, 2013 17:21:31 GMT -6
Post by alleyoop on Jul 23, 2013 17:21:31 GMT -6
Yea the boot cap they screw onto the coil wire, so cut about 1/2 inch ff the coil wire to get to good wires and screw the boot cap back on. Alleyoop
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Won't crank
by: 58george58 - Jul 24, 2013 12:12:49 GMT -6
Post by 58george58 on Jul 24, 2013 12:12:49 GMT -6
I'm going to try to explain this without confusing myself or anyone else. I used the diagram and a multi-meter to check connectivity from the spark plug to the coil, from the coil to the CDI, from the CDI to the main switch, from the main switch to the start switch. When I got to the start switch I was back to the two wires that I used liquid electrical tape on that were bare. The diagram shows R/Y & G to the start connector and G & B/W to the flameout or kill switch. The diagram shows nothing about a second connector from the start switch to the kill switch with G/W & G wire. Also the start switch has R/Y & G/W wire not R/Y & G as indicated on the diagram. In other words the G/W wire from the start switch is connected to the kill switch by a second connector underneath the G & B/W connection as I mentioned it has G/W & G wire. I assumed the start switch would be connected to ground through this second connector, not so. I connected the G/W wire from the start switch directly to ground the G wire per the diagram, she started right up. I don't know what this second connection to the kill switch is for, the kill switch works fine without it. I looked all over the diagram for a G/W wire, no luck. Thanks a lot for the diagram it straighten out the problem, was going to have it towed to the shop. I'm still a little confused but it cranks and runs.
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