steampunk updated: NO SPARK By dryshave (Read 1,090 times)

[dryshave]

Well what can I say... it didn't start up as I wanted. The good news... all the keyed auxiliary power items work - lights, horn, turn signals, gauges, brake light switches, etc. That's the good news!

The bad news... no start button power to the starter.
The starter does work when jumping the starter switch posts (no long cranks as I am only testing continuity - so I don't know if there's spark etc).
I've ripped the entire harness apart (SHITE!!) for the second time and checked all connections.

I've since discovered through cmsnl.com that the bystarter / coil and stator are different between the helix and the elite 250.

I know the stator is helix so I need to check the coil and bystarter to make sure I haven't swapped the parts.

I am testing the wiring harness CONNECTED TO THE MOTOR - OFF OF THE FRAME spread out on the shop floor and grounded to the starter motor mount - is this the problem with connectivity or ground?

I will check the pieces when I get home tonite and see if they're different. I will also have to swap the starter switch to the helix and adjust the wiring harness to compensate for the built in fuse connection on the helix.
I used to love the challenge of wiring until I ran into this hornet's nest.
I had read on another scooter site that the stator and auto bystarter were interchangeable, but the codes don't match. c'est la vie

Will update my tech issues with the steampunk scooter here and leave the pic updates in the photogallery if that is OK with the admin.

[justbuggin2]

have you check the starter switch it self as it could be faulty good luck with it and i am sure Jr has the wiring diagrams for both the Helix and Elite

[dryshave]

have tested the switch and the switch is fine. I suspect the electrical circuit to the switch somehow.
Will know tomorrow when I install the elite parts and switch out the relay wiring....arrgh!

I have already converted the elite 250 wiring diagram to an illustrator file in colour, the type is clear and much easier to read. I am now doing the helix wiring diagram, though it is difficult to read the type on the original. I will offer both of them up for anyone who would like a copy as soon as they are completed and confirmed accurate.

[dryshave]

Once I figured out (duh!) that the Y/R was simply a power supply to the starter switch I was able to trace the path all the way to the switch itself. It appears to be a dud even after stripping it apart and cleaning all contact points. My solution - bypass the starter button on the handlebar for a push button on the dash wired to the Br/Bu wire which is hot. That way everything still works through the key switch. I'll try the other start switch first, before giving up. At least I know the wiring harness works didn't say it's correct, just that it works.

I will do the final clean up of the frame this weekend and final paint. Sunday I drop the pieces for the brass work and hope to have them back by next weekend.

[JR]

Mar 14, 2013 23:41:56 GMT -6 dryshave said:

have tested the switch and the switch is fine. I suspect the electrical circuit to the switch somehow.
Will know tomorrow when I install the elite parts and switch out the relay wiring....arrgh!

I have already converted the elite 250 wiring diagram to an illustrator file in colour, the type is clear and much easier to read. I am now doing the helix wiring diagram, though it is difficult to read the type on the original. I will offer both of them up for anyone who would like a copy as soon as they are completed and confirmed accurate.

By all means dryshave, I would love to have the diagrams to post on the forum for others. Nice work!

JR

[dryshave]

One minute I'm getting good spark and so I mounted the tank, got everything connected and fuel pump working.... coughed once with "quickfire" and then now just keeps rolling over.
I've tested the coil and am suspect of a wiring connection to the coil.
(already made sure kill switch was in proper position)
Wondering if I hooked up a test light to the power wires to coil if I would or should get a flashing test light when I cranked it over (testing power circuit to coil)?

It was nice to hear it sputter, but would have been nice to hear her roar to life.
I'll swap out the cdi unit and the rectifier. I've checked all the wiring and no obvious suspects.
Is there another way of testing the firing circuit to the coil, that I'm not finding in the manual
- BTW - I pulled the engine again, wasn't feeling as if the engine was rolling over right, re checked the timing and pretty sure I was one tooth behind the firing sequence. Sounds better when cranking too.

Trying to solve the electrical this weekend (no show on the brass pieces). Everything is in final position, wiring, fuel lines, cooling hoses etc.

[justbuggin2]

if you have a timing light you can hook it up and tie the trigger in so you can have both hands free when you are trying to start it if it is flashing then you know you have spark

[justbuggin2]

something else to check pull the spark plug and see if it is fouled out

[dryshave]

continuity from the kill switch opens and closes as it should.
spark plug is brand new and gapped.
tried a timing light trick and there's no power to the coil....
have swapped out the CDI unit for another I have in stock (used)
(reminds me of the time that I pulled into a gas station with no headlights, after about an hour of farting around with the electronics, the mechanic replaced one light and that worked, replaced the other light and that worked.... I had two burnt out headllights - what were the odds).
Coil tests good, pulse generator tests good, exciter coil tests on the low side but is within numbers.
Fuses are all intact.
Will give the local shop a call and see if they've got a performance CDI unit on hand for this thing - my multimeter doesn't go down low enough to test the ones I've got.

[dryshave]

When I re did the wiring harness, I utilized a lot of the old wiring pieces from the original 250 harness and there are a lot of re-connected (and soldered) lines.
Somewhere in the harness... there's a short... I just happened to catch a quick tiny puff of smoke when I hit the ignition switch. I couldn't tell which wire it came from, nothing was hot or shorted out, so I decided to remove the harness (for what seems the bizzilionth time) and do a full teardown... drastic and not what I wanted to do at this stage, but I need to have absolute confidence in the harness and positive that the circuit is 100%. The biggest problem is the selection of striped colored wires that are in a harness (12 to be exact) plus the 9 standard colors. Will have to rewire with alternate colors, the connectors aren't a problem (I've learned how they come apart - and I've got lots of extras to play with. The good thing, is that I can take out all the split connections and fold backs and really have a solid harness in the end.
No word from the foundry yet.... wasn't wanting to bother them too much, but next week I'll give them a call.
Got the panels all on and ready to start the final bodywork, I can do a lot of the little touch ups, but I really need the bronze pieces for final fitting before I can do final adjustments.
The list of to do things isn't as long... just expensive at the final stages.
Not much for photos available, but will post more as I start the final bodywork.

"No, I will weep no more. In such a night
To shut me out? Pour on; I will endure."

[justbuggin2]

hate you having to rewire the thing but then you will be able to know what is what and maybe get rid of some things that are not needed

[dryshave]

At least I will be able to upgrade all the connectors to new!
What is your opinion of the performance items in the attached link... do you recommend these or others instead?

.scrappydogscooters.com/250cc_Performance.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">.scrappydogscooters.com/250cc_Performance.html

or am I just putting lipstick on the pig?

[justbuggin2]

i am not sure about the performance gains but the looks and durability will be improve over the stock setup