steam/diesel punk elite project By dryshave (Read 13,720 times)

[madcollie]

Dryshave, what's with the "universal antique gauges"? Got any links or pix?

Nicely coming along. Hope to hear your riding it when this white crap goes away next spring. Keep up the work and the postings please.

Oh yeah, and have a Merry X-mas!

M/C

[dryshave]

madcollie - I'd love to say I've nailed down the gauges, but can only send you links to the style of gauges I am looking for > I've been reading up on calculating gear ratios for speedometer gauges (I'm thinking it's 1:4 - common japanese motorcycle gauge) but need to do much more research. I've even thought of using a standard odometer from an XL or SL250 or rebel 250???

style I am looking for -
.autometer.com/cat_gaugedetail.aspx?gid=2944&sid=16" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">.autometer.com/cat_gaugedetail.aspx?gid=2944&sid=16
.digital-speedos.co.uk/smiths-motorcycle-gauges-38-c.asp" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">.digital-speedos.co.uk/smiths-motorcycle-gauges-38-c.asp

aftermarket motorcycle gauges.
.demonscycle.com/Shop/Control/fp/SFV/31995/seo/1/page/1/sfv/31995/scat/507682/set_num/2/menu_num/1/prods_per_page/96" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">.demonscycle.com/Shop/Control/fp/SFV/31995/seo/1/page/1/sfv/31995/scat/507682/set_num/2/menu_num/1/prods_per_page/96

here's a link to a steam punk mini cooper that has captured the color scheme I'm planning: I'd love to be able to duplicate the brass color of the gauge face plates... but will put that on a future to do list.

1.bp.blogspot.com/-HOJB2cCSXUA/T9I28UwPDgI/AAAAAAAH25s/GX0nB9tjYtM/s1600/Carlex-Design-Steampunbk-1.jpg

SHOP UPDATE: Creating the mounting tabs adds so much extra work and time to the development of the body panels. You can see where I've hinged the battery cover and added a mounting tab for the back panel to mid panel which will use standard body panel clip style locking nuts.
I've also started finishing up the area around the the seat pan (still lots of cutting and adjusting to do) I need to leave enough room for the finished seat to roll up and down. There should be progress by the weekend with finished bondo work on the centre and side of the rear panel.

One more week in the shop, before I have to commit to Christmas shopping and gift wrapping, so hope to have more updates by mid week.

[dryshave]

hope it's alright to post above links justbuggin2....

[madcollie]

Dryshave, one word. Classy!

Love the colors and if it were me, I'd be leaning toward the first speedo gauge. Like the simple, clean looks of it even if the 120mph is a bit optimistic. Reminds me of the Whizzer speedo.

M/C

[dryshave]

madcollie: The first speedo is my favorite too, hope to find something that's as clean and simple looking. 120mph is a bit optimistic.... don't think I'd want to be on it at that speed either

I think I've said this before.... but that should be the last of the fiberglassing for a while. I've got the centre piece sanded down to 180 grit and coat of sandable primer to seal it, while I get to finishing up the kick plate and the sides of the rear piece. I figure that I've got another 60-80 hours of sanding to do, no idea of how much time I've spent hand sanding, but both arms are equally sore and I have no fingerprints on either hand.
You can see the battery tray is fitting better now.
If you compare the photos on the (drivers left) hinge section, you may notice that I've rubberstamped (photoshop) the pop rivets, as I haven't finished mounting the hinge. The reason for (not the photoshopping) the delay in mounting the hinge, is that I will be on putting a rubber/leather patch... under the rivets, after I paint the panels, thus covering the gap created by the hinge clearance..... clear as mud. (see the pics

Hope to have the rest of the pieces sanded and primed by the weekend, and then it's turn time to clean up the garage and shut down for a couple weeks, while I get into the Christmas fever... and punch.





January - February will see me swapping out the frame shock supports from a helix and welding it into place. Have tried to figure out another way around it, but the easiest way to solve my "toe-in shocks" is to utilize the original support arm and to replace the shock supports on the old 150 frame. The good thing about this mod, is that it won't affect any of the completed bodywork... I've been thinking about this for awhile..
Once the shock towers are complete, it'll be time to complete the clean up on the frame and final paint.

I'll post one more batch of pics before the holidays, I hope that it will be of all the panels, prepped and primed for final sanding.
Hard to believe that it's been almost a year...

[justbuggin2]

it is fine with me that is an awl some paint scheme

[dryshave]

Happy New Year to all!!
It's been a relaxing couple of weeks and was glad to get back into the garage again. Glad to have completed the first sanding on all the panels before the end of 2012 (was a goal) and as you can see from the pics... done a dry assembly - to determine any problem points and the check clearance of the newly positioned shock mounts.
It was lucky to have a helix frame in the backyard. I removed (cut off) the cross tube that had the shock mounts and carefully positioned the tube after cutting out the original mounts (emphasis on carefully - must have checked my measurements a dozen times). A quick tack weld, followed by additional structural support (overkill - but excellent piece of mind).
No significant problems with panel fittings, just a bunch of frame welds to clean up.

- Ready now for a mechanical dry assembly.
- Round up some extra long battery cables and finish the rear brake extension first.
- Hunting down colored fuel/oil/heater hoses to bling the engine.
- Dropped off the lens mockups for my brother to make me a couple of vacuum tests (for fit).
- no body work until February as I would like to focus on cleaning up and finishing the frame.

Looking back over the year.... I've managed to get a lot done and learned a lot about fiberglass and casting.

More soon!

[dryshave]

The benefit for the change on the shock mounts is that I can now use the helix shocks - mucho gusto!

[justbuggin2]

that is one awlsome looking ride you are building thanks for showing the whole bike looks great

[dryshave]

RULE #1 - ALWAYS PUT THE KEY TO THE IGNITION WITH THE REGI WHEN YOU ARE DOING A REBUILD.... I didn't follow Rule #1 and now that I've got the wiring harness sorted... CAN'T FIND THE KEY !!

Got all the wiring sorted, new connections added for the electronic fuel pump and the fuel sensor (I somehow missed that one). Rebuilt the starter, and tested - sweet!
Just waiting for the engine gasket kit to arrive, hoping to see it early next week, then the motor is complete and ready to lock down. Re-checked the timing marks, ran a magnet inside the open engine casing in case there were loose metal bits - non found. Noticed that there was a difference between the helix valve camshaft and the elite camshaft - stuck with the helix. Got thinking about the airbox, so I've posted a couple pics of what I have available and what I think will work (per tech thread). I realized that there is no forced airflow from the sidecase into the airbox (assumed!!) Since my motor is fully exposed, I'm thinking that an extended tube with a cone filter angled 90 degrees will get more than enough airflow (maybe jetting up one instead of two.... perhaps?).
I've wire brushed and done the first 600g aluminum polish on the crankcase (more to be done) and have started brushing off the muffler.
I'm getting into the expensive part of the build now... so looking to save for luxury purchases of a new muffler and rims, by cleaning up the original items for the first year.
Ordered a new carb kit and will order the gauges by the end of the week - will post which route I decide to go with.
Not working on the bodywork for a while (too cold in the shop) so concentrating on getting it barebones ready to run.

[dryshave]

.classicmotorcycleforum.com/index.php?topic=4224.0" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">.classicmotorcycleforum.com/index.php?topic=4224.0
a better link on how to make your own brake cable ends... helped me a lot as I've done more research about the subject. Scroll down to the last article... this guy know what he's talking about.
The only difference that I did was use a soldering pot. Worked fantastic, will post pics soon.

got the muffler cleaned up and have finished roughing in the electronics and run the radiator lines. Everything still tucks away nice and neat.
got a quote today on the seat $150-$300 depending on material, meeting with the seat guy this weekend.
still waiting for the engine gasket kit (any day now)
have cleaned up the handlebars and painted. Cleaned up the switches and all connections for horn/on off/headlights etc. and painted to match.
hoping to get the new ignition key by the weekend, waiting to hear from the key guy.
Taking the wheels down to my tire guy and have him remove the rims so I can get them cleaned up for paint.

Several of these items will get replaced as I continue to work on the project. The exhaust will eventually be replaced along with the rims. There's always something to be upgraded, but I'd like to get it all wired and working before I proceed to the final bodywork stage of painting.

[dryshave]

Colds suck!!!!
Been knocked down on the sofa for the past week, so had no motivation to get out into the shop. So worked inside (wife at work) on the coffee table mapping out the dash and position of gauges.
After all the research I've decided to utilize the mechanics from the elite 250 gauges and sandwich in new faceplates (not that hard). So I've cut out a tray out of a sheet of bakelite?? (salvage from an old hospital bed) It's perfect for this application (hidden) and it's very strong and takes to drilling holes without shattering. I'm going to use a gauge from an old CB350 and re-face it as well. It is removable and bolts right onto the cowl piece. I will sandwich this with the brass faceplate that I'm now having cast (see below)
The gasket kit made it in and motor is fully assembled / timed / and bench tested, you can see from the pic that I'm still messing with the hose lines for the air intake - think I've got it sorted... there's still the problem with the plenum chamber, what am I going to do? do I need it?
I met with the owner of the foundry that said they were interested in casting the tail piece and headlight eye brows... FANTASTIC MEET!! Not only can they do it, the price quoted was below what I had budgeted for, so I asked them to do the dash as well... all pieces for under $500. Looking to finish the sanding and detail work over the next month, but they are scheduled to go in at the end of this month - 5 day turnaround.... really looking forward to getting them finished, so I can move on to finishing the body panels.
Seat guy quoted between $150- 300 for a custom job, hoping to hook up with him about the same time.
So I expect to have the dash and gauges completed, the brass work finished and the seat covered by the end of this month.
Now I just have to come up with a front grill design, that's been bugging me for awhile. Will submit a couple designs and see which one stands out.






still hanging in there, starting to see a little light at the end of this tunnel.... not there yet, but I'm getting there

[dryshave]

.obronze.com/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">.obronze.com/
these are the guys doing the bronze work. Not only did they do the statue of Capt. Vancouver in front of City Hall, but back in the 20s they did all the custom work on one of our most famous art deco buildings in Vancouver (as seen in Fantastic Four movies) the Marine Building. I'm honoured to have such a unique bit of history attached to this ride.

[justbuggin2]

so when are you gonna get my ride done

[madcollie]

Dryshave, sorry to hear about the cold but at least it wasn't the flu. Hope your feeling better.

Must say your putting a hell of alot of impressive customs into this bike, more like a work of art. Didn't think I'd like the brass & silver look until you showed me the Mini Cooper and now I'm all for it. Great together.

Feb 1, 2013 19:23:19 GMT -6 justbuggin2 said:

so when are you gonna get my ride done

Buggin, you do understand that a project of this nature takes time to build and then the testing & tweaking, and lots of test rides. I have offered myself as test pilot ( being close by) so if your patient it should be ready for you some time around 2025.

M/C