My $300 Jonway YY250T *Update: Now running! By jahunt (Read 13,164 times)

[jahunt]

Hello,

This will be both my own introduction, my scooters introduction, and also the process of refurbishing my 2007 Jonway 250.

I was guided in this direction as this is the 250cc subject matter expert forum!

First off, my name is Jack , from Pittsburgh, PA. This isn't my 1st scooter - I previously had a 2007 Roketa Bali 150. I had to sell it about a year after buying it new due to lack of storage in my past situation. Luckily, I am a new home owner and have the perfect place to work on my new scoot! I'm 31 and do marketing for a very large Pittsburgh Based clothing retailer - found in every local mall. I have built race motor for Japanese cars and have a pretty good understanding of engine theory & electronics.

Now enough about me, let me introduce you to the scoot. I "paid" $300 for it. It has about 5,000 miles on it and in very nice cosmetic shape. The reason "$300" is in quotes is because I essentially got it for free. While browsing Craigslist, I came across this in Greensboro NC (about 8 hours away). I decided with the help of my awesome wife watching my daughter for a day that I was going to roadtrip it 8 hours each way in my F150. The guy wanted to trade me for an old computer I had laying around (essentailly free, but had to buy a LCD monitor from craigslist for him). So with the fuel, food, and computer monitor, I have $300 into it. Sweet!

So, the deal was to sweet to pass up. I told the guy that if it wasn't wrecked and the title was there, I would take it. Of course the scooter didn't run, and was labeled on craigslist as "needs engine rebuilt" , scaring away any of my competitive deal hunters!

So... this is where I begin. The "story" is that he bought it for $600 and needed a starter. He put a starter in and it ran, but really ruff. He "rebuilt" the carb, and then it wouldn't run at all. He "tried" to do a compression test, but couldn't get the harbor freight gauge to read anything but '0'PSI. He was fed up at this point.

So with my previous auto & scooter background I know it is nearly impossible for a motor to have 0PSI on a compression test; unless, the piston has a hole or SEVERE damage, which you would hear during the motor turning over. This leads me to believe I need to run this test again just to get it out of the way.

So... this is where I need you lovely folks to help out. A hack job mechanic has tried to fix different things in a way that isn't thorough to say the least. He didn't have any of the rear plastics, airbox, seat, etc on the bike when I picked it up. Check out the pictures below to see!

Step 1: Look at hacked electrical (prior to looking at compression, fuel, and spark)
Take a look at the 1st picture. There is a "looped" harness with fusible links. The previous owner told me that all the lights stay on if this remains plugged in, even if the key is off.

This harness really looks like someone elses hack-job, to replace the factory fuse block.

By the way: this is the 244cc CF MOTO engine for future reference.

Thanks all!

The Harness, a little blurry. It connect to another white harness. It conists of a bunch of electrical loops with a fusible link on each loop (what you see in my hand): Does anyone have the wiring diagram or could anyone provide a picture of their fuse harness so I can ensure that the hack-job was completed correctly? (I have looked at the wiring diagram, but wasn't much help)



The "piece back together" pics... just to make sure most everything is there...










I look forward to meeting some of you!

Cheers,

Jack

[jahunt]

Update #1: The right headlight was very dim and wouldn't switch to high-beam. I traced the wires and played around with switching the headlight harnesses from right-side to left-side. It was found that the right harness has 2 of the pins switched around. Fixed! Headlights work great now!

Update #2: The lights stay on with the key out of the ignition until I disconnect the "fuse harness" shown in the picture above. Research showed that others have had this issue when the Diode Rectifier/Regulator goes bad. I took a look at mine and it was disformed from what appears to be severe heat (maybe from the headlights shorting out?). I disconnected the old Diode and removed it, and ordered a new one. The new one will arrive today in the mail. Problem: I disconnected the 2 wires from it and don't remember which one went where. Is there a way to check which way I need to hook it back up? Here is the part in question... .monsterscooterparts.com/diode.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">.monsterscooterparts.com/diode.html I don't want to hook it up backwards! Actually... does it matter which terminal hooks to which wire on a diode?

Update #3: Still looking for specific wiring of the factory fuseblock so I can confirm that mine is wired correctly. I know some of these scoots didn't have a fuse block, just fuses throughout the harness. I need to reference someone's who has the actual block.

Thanks!

[JR]

First of all Welcome to the forum! Nice scooter and for sure a bargain price!

For sure it looks like someone has done some jury rigged wiring but I'm sure we can get on the right path.

OK first things first and it's the wiring diagram. This diagram was drawn and modified from a generic version by myself and a good friend and admin here Cruiser who owns this exact same scooter as yours that we all call the bumblebee!

thescooterprofessor.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=250g&action=display&thread=430

OK as you can see there are 4 versions of this scooter as far as diagrams go and of course yours is the first on with a brief description of how it is set up.

Now for sure with what you've described the blocking diode is out and the one you have on order probably can be wired in but it's not original plug and play. Here is a picture of the diode on the 250B linhai and it is the same on the cfmoto clone version;




Now I'll look because I've got a link somewhere of a place to order the exact plug and play OEM diode but you may want to consider what a lot of people are doing on this scooter and that's installing a relay;

thescooterprofessor.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=250e&action=display&thread=285


It's easy can generally pick on up at the auto parts or even order on line and it will actually give you a little more amps back in the system.

Now this scooter should have a fuse box and when you unplug the harness it's looking like they have wired a bunch of stuff together? Sis they fuse each link? This scooter has one main 20A fuse up by the battery and 4 other 10 amp fuses for individual function's.

OK let's go from here and let me know about the fuse box and I've talked to Cruiser and he's going to chime in and we have others with this scooter like damnig69 and yoster so we're going to get you going.

Again Welcome to the forum.

JR

[jahunt]

Hi JR,

Thanks for the response. The wiring diagram that you provided is the first that I had seen with the fuse block diagram! Very helpful!

The link that I posted to the diode is the EXACT diode that was on my bike. Since it will be in my mailbox today, I will install it rather than using a relay (http://.monsterscooterparts.com/diode.html). If it fails again at some point, then I will try that option. I noticed that the diode in the picture above is standard on most 250's, mine is just like the one in the picture in the link I provided. It does in-fact still sit in the same exact location though held on with the same single bolt. I'm excited to get home from work and give it a shot!

[alleyoop]

FANTASTIC Jahunt,
You will not find a more knowledgeable guy on the 250s than JR. He is a wezz at Electricals and cooling on the the 250s. Electricals on just about any scoot 50s or 150s as well.
Ride Safe and hope that diode works for you and you will be riding HIGH HIGH HIGH.
Alleyoop

[JR]

If that is indeed the diode that was on your scooter, it's the first one I've see with one like that?

The diode is essentially a check valve. It allows voltage to flow one way toward the battery and keeps the battery voltage from feeding back to the light circuit which hooks up between the R/R and the input side of the diode. With this system the lights only work with the engine running.

JR

[jahunt]

Woohoo! The new diode worked! I do believe the electrical is now 100% functional! I have the carb off and going to clean it up tonight. 1st attempt to start it will be tomorrow!

[JR]

Great! Now after looking at the wires again I'm fully convinced that soemone removed the fuse box and did the fuse thing themselves. Now not saying it was a bad thing because a lot of those fuse holders were some to be desired.

Main thing is we're making progress. When she does run you need to check the voltage at the battery with it running.

JR

[jahunt]

Woohoo! Cleaned out the jets and cleaned the carb out. Put it back on, hooked up the vac lines and cranked and cranked. Nothing. Loosened up the valve adjustments all the way and cranked again. ITS ALIVE! Scared the heck out of me when it started haha.

I don't have any coolant in it and don't have a cap for the filler hose. Can I pick one up at the auto parts store? It was blowing nasty water (what was left) out of the filler whole when running.

It doesn't want to rev at all. Will go up maybe too 3000 RPMs then choke out. Air fuel screw is at 2.5 turns out on the bottoms of the carb. Tried adjusting the valves during idle and if you push at all against the tension it kills the motor. How hard exactly should I push on them before I tighten the adjustment bolts? Even with them dead loose it won't rev up.

[jahunt]

I just filled the cooling system up through the filler under the seat. Like I said, no cap for the filler under the seat area. Cranked it over and it shot 3 huge chugs of coolant across the garage. Is that normal or do I have a head gasket issue?

Also, when running it only had the carburetor on. No airfliter/airbox. Will that affect it?

[damin69]

Jack welcome aboard.

First to answer you last question about the air filter. YOU definitly want to run some type of an air filter. If not an OEM box/filter you may need to rejet with an aftermarket or hi performance filter. Alley knows more about that part than I do.

As for you electrical fuse block issue I have a place that I have been getting fuse blocks for my scooters.
That is the same as one of my scooters. Here is a pic of a fuse block I installed in my scooter. The stock fuse blocks are very low quality.

Here is a link to the place I have been getting my fuse blocks from.
.arlingtonproducts.com/servlet/the-Automotive-cln-Mini-Fuses%2C-Blocks-and-Acc./Categories" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">.arlingtonproducts.com/servlet/the-Automotive-cln-Mini-Fuses%2C-Blocks-and-Acc./Categories

[JR]

Feb 17, 2012 20:08:22 GMT -6 jahunt said:

I just filled the cooling system up through the filler under the seat. Like I said, no cap for the filler under the seat area. Cranked it over and it shot 3 huge chugs of coolant across the garage. Is that normal or do I have a head gasket issue?

Also, when running it only had the carburetor on. No airfliter/airbox. Will that affect it?

Nope! Sounds like we've got to clean up the cooling system. If it's running with the system full of water even with the cap off it should not spurt water everywhere. It can do this if its got a lot of air but if you fill the radiator and then turn it over and fill again it should have so much air in it that it shoots water every where? Going to need to start flushing it and the first thing I would pull is the thermostat and use the hot pan of water on the stove to test it.

If thei scooter has set for awhile then I would change the oil, be sure to check to see if it's milky looking like it might have water in it and as Daming said needs airfilter or a unifilter.

Lots of places to get a OEM filter box but if you want to go unifilter then you can fine tune that too. We let Alley handle the carb and filter tuning he eats and sleeps it!

No we need to go the right cap no cap from the auto parts will look up a link for it.

Air filter, radiator cap, adjust valves, tune carb, change oil, looks like we've got some work to get her in shape but we'll get there.

JR

[JR]

Ok in the Honda manual section use the Helix Service manual parts 1,2 and 3 which will give you specs and details on this engine;

thescooterprofessor.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=ncmanuals&action=display&thread=415

Here's a video on adjusting the valves from the video tech section;

thescooterprofessor.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=250cee&action=display&thread=373

Here is some parts for the cooling system:

.chinesemotoparts.com/index.php?main_page=index_bike&bike_id=183&page=3" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">.chinesemotoparts.com/index.php?main_page=index_bike&bike_id=183&page=3

One of our preferred vendors Dave with Abscooters;

absolutelyscooterparts.net/catalog/cn250-filler-neck-p-186.html?osCsid=2d5vcue3h6h0ff2h3gemuj6sm4


absolutelyscooterparts.net/catalog/cn250-thermostat-p-183.html?osCsid=bufjb7m8pcjvrqd0hbm9lovc62


Now on the air filter box if you don't have one? The guys who own this scooter can say if this is right?

absolutelyscooterparts.net/catalog/cn250-filter-intake-assembly-p-794.html?osCsid=bufjb7m8pcjvrqd0hbm9lovc62

.powersportsmax.com/product_info.php/cPath/423/products_id/13628" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">.powersportsmax.com/product_info.php/cPath/423/products_id/13628

That should keep you busy for a spell!

JR

[cruiser]

Welcome to the forum, Jack. It looks like JR has pretty well covered all the bases with all the reference links he gave you. You certainly need some kind of airbox on the scoot and the powersports link looks like the right one. Also, there are no fusible links on these scoots. Here's a picture of the original fuse box:



Once you get it running smoothly and the cooling system operational, you will want to check the performance of the charging system as they can be pretty weak unless you do some upgrades. Good Luck.

[jahunt]

Well - bad news. I had the major components back together today, changed out the oil/coolant/sparkplug, and gave her a shot. Fired right up again, but with coolant in the motor, she spewed white coolant smoke out the exhaust. So much coolant that it was dripping off the tip of the muffler.

Yanked the spark plug and it had coolant on it as well.

Poop. What direction to take at this point?