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Post by JR on Jan 30, 2013 0:20:43 GMT -6
You've got a loose connection and you've moved something to make it work at this time. But it's probably going to show it's face again, let's hope not.
JR
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Post by alleyoop on Jan 30, 2013 0:54:52 GMT -6
The Trike is made from a 250 it is identical to your 250. They just took off the rear wheel made a swingarm to hold the rear axle and added a Sprocket to drive the differential on the axle. It weighs 350 lbs. They should have left the 250 motor then I would have build it into a 300cc  Alleyoop Here are the mods on my 2009 PST150H Ice Bear Trike. It has a 157QMJ short case motor was originally a 149.6cc Motor now it is 182cc motor: 62mm BBK 60mm Stroker Crank 16/37 Hoca Tranny Gears – Original were 13/40- got 18/36 gears I will be putting in. K&N Air Filter with a Short Stack SuperTrapp Muffler 1 1/4 Header Pipe 24mm Carb #122.5 Main Jet #38 Pilot Jet Peformance Coil/CDI Manual Choke Iridium Plug Prodigy Variator 12g Dr. Pulley Sliders 205/65-10 Kenda Load Tires-3"s taller than OEM 29 tooth Drive Sprocket-came with 24 tooth. DID 428 Pro V Series O-Ring Chain Givia 29" tall Windshield All Led bulbs Except the Headlights-I do not drive at night 4 way Flasher Turn Signal Beeper Relay for the Beeper connected to the Brakes VIP Trunk with Led lights Radio with SD card,MP3 connections BRAKE LIGHT FLASHER on the wing of the trunk. |
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Post by ellpee on Jan 30, 2013 13:43:45 GMT -6
JR you are correct. Went out this morning and connected my battery tender to the battery, did nothing else, Battery showed 12.4v. Cranked a couple times with key/brakes/start, wouldn't run, but it did at least crank. Waited a bit, jumpered in my gorilla battery again to be sure of enough juice, k/b/s fired it up just fine. Died after a couple minutes -- idle is a bit too low -- and suddenly key/brake/start wouldn't work. Remote start did, though. Stopped and started it a couple times with remote, trying k/b/s in between, nada.
So, pretty clearly even to me, I've got a bad connection somewhere from the ignition switch to the two brake switches, and/or FROM the two brake switches back to the solenoid, and/or a problem with one or more of those three switches. See how much you folks have taught me in just a couple days? Supposed to warm up a bit here in Tucson starting tomorrow, so will pull off the dash/handlebar plastic and start testing things. I could muddle through on just the remote start in a pinch, but don't like the risk of that failing too somewhere out in the middle of nowhere, leaving me in deep, deep chop suey.
And alleyoop, thanks for the rundown on your trike -- very impressive. Surprised it only weighs 350, my paperwork says my two-wheeler is 368. And all that being pushed by 182cc, though clearly a maxed-out 162. You're a wizard, no doubt about it.
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Post by JR on Jan 30, 2013 13:53:35 GMT -6
All you have to do to expose all the front brake light connections is to pull the front headlight cowling off, don't have to mess with the speedo or any of that stuff, all the connectors are behind the headlights. Lots of screws but it's not hard. Key switch etc all behind that.
JR
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Post by alleyoop on Jan 30, 2013 14:28:27 GMT -6
MAXED OUT!! No it has more but I do not like to run with high rpms, I have my CVT and setup to only pull 7000 rpms. Once up to speed I back off the throttle and I can settle it down at 5100 rpms at 50mph run it up to 60 and back off and settle the rpms to 6100 rpms at 60mph. I had it up higher near 70 but that is to fast for me on that trike. Now the 650 Burgman I sold to my Brother-in Law that sucker would CRUISE at 70 all day long and could run up over 100mph.
Alleyoop
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Post by ellpee on Jan 30, 2013 21:04:45 GMT -6
Took the plastic off the handlebars before reading JR's latest, found and examined the switches on L and R brake levers, particularly the electrical connectors. Flimsy looking things, I must say, but there appeared to be current to both with ignition on, and current passing thru when the brake lever is applied. Scooter started repeatedly this afternoon with k/b/s. At suppertime, it didn't; had to use remote again. Had gotten pretty chilly by then, wonder if heat/cold is playing a role. Will continue testing, and thanks for the info on how to get at all the various dashboard connections. Was wondering how I was going to get at the ignition switch, about which I'm still suspicious; seems to behave differently at different times. If taking off that headlight cowling will let me get at all that spaghetti with my trusty voltmeter that'll be a big relief.
Hey, a totally new question, though. This afternoon I noticed a hose about 10-12" long, 3/8" OD more or less, that comes out of the top of the "transmission" housing at left rear of the scoot and was just dangling there, attached to nothing. There are a couple other hoses there that go to connections on a black plastic box above and forward of the tranny housing and are secured with typical hose clamps, but this hose is just dangling and I couldn't see anything that looked like it should attach to. If anybody knows right offhand what it is, super; if not I'll try to take and post a picture tomorrow.
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Post by alleyoop on Jan 30, 2013 21:19:37 GMT -6
If the hose is going into your tranny gears behind the clutch that is just a VENT hose for the tranny. You will find that Tranny Vent hose on all the scoots with CVTs.
Alleyoop
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Post by ellpee on Jan 31, 2013 8:34:33 GMT -6
Ah so, yes that sounds right about the hose -- I can see no sign that there was ever a hose clamp on the loose end, and it seems to have been cut off evenly, not torn/broken. Just hadn't noticed it dangling before, will see if there's not some sort of a retainer clip it slipped out of. If not, perhaps I'll add one somewhere; flopping around like that it looks like it might get into the wheel spokes some day. More wire testing up front this afternoon when it warms up a bit outside. The more I ponder, the more I begin to suspect the ignition switch; it seems erratic, does one thing this time, a different thing the next.
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Post by ellpee on Jan 31, 2013 14:55:15 GMT -6
Early afternoon, went out to deal with that hose and found that I'd lost a bolt that holds the rear fender in place; guessed that the vent hose used to run behind that and started dangling when the bolt fell out. Replaced bolt with loctite and hose between fender panel and rear frame -- enough room so hose isn't pinched but is held fairly tightly. Guess this explains why a thorough PDI is a good idea. Looks like I need to develop the habit of going over every accessible screw and bolt once a week or so.
Scoot started early this morning (near-freezing cold), but only with remote; tried again just now, temp probably in the 50's, started normally with k/b/s. Really bizarre. Peeked under the front panels, can see several connectors but testing them not easy with panels in place, guess I'll remove the plastic and get to work. Really paranoid about riding again until I feel like I've found and fixed the root problem.
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Post by JR on Jan 31, 2013 19:51:52 GMT -6
If you remove the front, you'll expose all the connectors including the key switch.
JR
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Post by ellpee on Feb 1, 2013 12:36:57 GMT -6
Yup, will be getting at those connectors this afternoon. Just peeking under there I see one wire with a ring connector that is just hanging there, connected to absolutely nothing. Can't tell yet where it's coming from. Guessing either an unused circuit or the ground wire for something, but if the latter that something ought not to work at all, and everything seems to be working at least to some degree.
BTW, scooter cranked and started fine this morning with k/b/s, 55 degrees so took a couple cranks but otherwise no problem.
When all this is behind me, thinking about whether I ought to invest in a more robust battery. Yuasa OEM is only 8 Ah and seems to drain pretty quickly if I do a lot of cranking. I see replacements on line up to 14 Ah or so, but they're not cheap. Thoughts, anyone?
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Post by JR on Feb 1, 2013 12:48:36 GMT -6
This is where I go, not the cheapest but they will take care of you and sell every battery known to man. I have a 14AH jet ski battery on my scooter, it is now 4 years old and finally weak, going to order a new one in the next day or two. They have a 14AH that will just sit right in there with no issues. One year no BS warranty. .apexbattery.com/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"> .apexbattery.com/JR |
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Post by ellpee on Feb 1, 2013 20:23:51 GMT -6
Thanks for the battery info. Tried my luck at taking off that front plastic this afternoon, removed a slew of screws and bolts and it still won't come off, afraid to yank around on it too much lest I break something. Got interrupted so will be back at it tomorrow, but it ain't all that simple! Did continue my voltage testing, though, starting again with the brakes, which would seem to be the nub of my problem, and still no aha moment. Won't go on endlessly about it this time as it would be incoherent; results are x one minute, y the next. Example: turn on key, fuel gauge pops up; turn off key and even switch off battery power entirely, fuel gauge stays up! Crazy stuff, real Harry Potteresque, like somebody is standing nearby casting spells and hexes while I do my testing.
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Post by JR on Feb 1, 2013 21:04:58 GMT -6
You have two 10mm nuts on the bottom to take off and there are two front screws under one of the what I call vent ribs that are a little hard to see. When you're sure you got them all then give it a little whack to make it come lose.
JR
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Post by alleyoop on Feb 1, 2013 21:39:23 GMT -6
Ok ellpee, Yours is like my Trike. Here are pictures of screws you have to take off to get at the back of the instrument panel and or llights. Alleyoop   1. Once you take those off the cover can be taken off. the Cover has tabs that slide and hook on the sides so pull up a little and pop one side out at a time. There is also a tab at the nose of the cover at the bottom but that just slips in a long slot so don't go and yank on it to get it out just pull up . 2. Then you will see 3 screws on each side holding the windshield unscrew and take the windshield off. 3. Now you will have only two more screws to take out that fits the outline of the instrument panel. The screws are on the side you will see one on each side unscrew and pull the cover off. Now you can see lots of wireing and the back of the instrument panel. Once you do this once it will take you about 10 minutes any other time. Alleyoop |
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..BAD TO THE BONE..
