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Post by bdplayer81 on Aug 13, 2012 21:01:45 GMT -6
I tried the tests and when I put the red lead to the green/white wire and the black to the green I did not get continuity. I did pull the green white wire out of the CDI plug and plugged it into the CDI and still did not get a spark. One question I wanted to bring up was the CDI. The mechanic did try a different CDI but they do not look the same. In the picture the factory CDI is the one with the white tape on it and the one the mechanic replaced it with is on the right. I'm wondering if the original CDI is bad but the one the mechanic tried will not work. Attachments:
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Post by bdplayer81 on Aug 3, 2012 18:42:10 GMT -6
The ground wire on the CDI is good. I got 12.2v on it when I tested it (the battery was at 12.2v). The starter is turning over fine as well but still no spark.
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Post by bdplayer81 on Aug 3, 2012 9:38:24 GMT -6
If I put the red lead on the volt meter on the positive terminal and the black lead on either the frame or the engine block and get a 12.5v reading that's an indication that both are grounded, correct? For the record, I haven't changed any of the ground wires yet. They're still setup as they were from the factory.
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Post by bdplayer81 on Aug 1, 2012 21:14:29 GMT -6
I neglected to mention earlier and I did the test with the ground and the green wire. I set my volt meter to ohms and it read 1. I put the red lead on the green/white and the black on the ground. Then when I turned the key on nothing changed, it still said 1. I'm guessing this is an indication it did not lose continuity.
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Post by bdplayer81 on Aug 1, 2012 16:36:21 GMT -6
Just got the battery checked. They told me it's good.
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Post by bdplayer81 on Jul 31, 2012 21:49:21 GMT -6
I checked the positive side of the battery connections to the starter relay and to the starter. Just to make sure I did it correctly... I had the red lead on the connection on the relay and then the black on the negative post on the battery. Then did the same thing for the connection to the starter. Red on the starter connection and black on negative post. Each time the voltage read over 12v. I then checked the ground off the battery by putting the black lead on the ground and the red lead on the positive post which resulted in voltage over 12v. As far as grounds coming off the battery there was only one and as I said before, it connected to a bolt holding the crank case housing together. Is that adequate for grounding the engine? Also, there isn't a ground on the frame from the battery to the frame. Does there need to be one? The only ground wire connected to the frame is connected to the bolt/nut that holds the ignition coil on which I think is coming from the CDI plug. I'll be taking the battery in this week to get it checked out.
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Post by bdplayer81 on Jul 30, 2012 18:47:48 GMT -6
I plugged the CDI back in and checked the black/brown wired where it plugs into the ignition coil and I got 12.15v. (The battery was at 12.25v) Then when I grabbed the brake to start it the voltage dropped down to 9.5 or so. I plugged the black/brown wire back in and then checked the voltage on the spark plug wire and it was about 12.15v. I then hit the starter a couple times and the voltage was at about 7.3v. It seems like the voltage really drops when the brake is squeezed and the starter is cranked.
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Post by bdplayer81 on Jul 27, 2012 20:56:26 GMT -6
I tested the wires by touching it to the black/brown wire and the ground and it showed 12.45v on the volt meter. The CDI plug is at the front of the scoot and the battery is under the seat so I couldn't test it by putting the black lead to the negative on the battery. I didn't have anything I could reach to make the connection. Also, the ground off the battery appears to be attached to the case on the engine casing so that should be on a good clean metal surface.
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Post by bdplayer81 on Jul 25, 2012 18:48:43 GMT -6
I'm not sure if I'm doing something wrong but I'm not getting a reading when I check the black/brown wire. I put the red lead on the connection for that wire. Where do I connect the black lead? I know this seems rather elementary but I just want to make sure I'm not doing something wrong. Thanks.
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Post by bdplayer81 on Jul 24, 2012 21:03:38 GMT -6
My wires going to the CDI appear to be a bit different. I have a Green/White, Yellow/Blue, Green, Black/Brown, and Yellow/Black. Attachments:
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Post by bdplayer81 on Jul 24, 2012 20:03:33 GMT -6
Finally had some time to work with the scooter again tonight. I tested the battery and it had 12.5v. I pulled the plug out to check for spark and it looked fouled so I replaced it and tested for spark and there was no spark.
I do have a volt meter but it does not have a diode tester.
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Post by bdplayer81 on Jul 20, 2012 14:21:33 GMT -6
Well, I got the scooter back from the "mecahnic". He didn't fix a darn thing and I got the scooter back in pieces. Mostly body parts are off so I guess that's less I have to do. In any case I put the air cleaner and hose back on and reattached the CDI and the blocking diode. So here's where I'm at... I charged up the battery before trying to turn it over. It has 12.7v when I took it off the charger. I tried starting it a few times and I got the starter to crank but it did not sound like the engine was trying to fire. While I was trying to start it I got a voltage reading on the battery and it went down to 11.4v. Clearly I've lost ground because before I took it in at least I could get it started on an overly charged battery. Now I've got nothing.
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Post by bdplayer81 on Jun 26, 2012 11:45:06 GMT -6
I'm having trouble getting my scooter to start on a regular basis. When I try to start it the starter spins and I can hear some popping but it won't fire up. I can smell gas so it's getting gas. I have also replaced the battery, had the CDI changed, and had the valves adjusted. (All done by a mechanic by the way.) But still no luck. The only time I've been able to get it to fire up is after the battery has been fully charged. It will run and start fine but the next day it wont fire unless the battery has been given more juice. It has happened with the old battery and the new so that doesn't appear to be the problem. I have tested the voltage while under load and it is good. I was hoping someone might have a suggestion for something else to try. This has been an ongoing issue since April and even the mechanic I took it to can't seem to get it figured out. Thanks.
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