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Post by bcgreatness on Jan 11, 2012 18:03:09 GMT -6
forgot to mention he started his buggy project in the 80s but in the 90s he was murdered.
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Post by bcgreatness on Jan 11, 2012 17:57:58 GMT -6
yeah seen that on the news late last year. the fox 13 is actually my local fox channel. pretty good stuff, but like jct said, its been around for a long time. look up stan meyers on google. he was one among the first few who started doing that but he did it to a buggy that ran on TAP water. its been a topic of many conspiracy theories involving the government, just a short backround on the story. the guy invented his buggy. he was ( as i believe ) the first person to go public with the invention. soon after he was murdered and then his buggy was stolen from his home and has NEVER been found, it all happened around 95 - 98 or somthing. his buggy would get around 70-100 mpg. i could understand why people would want to snuff him out because if you think about it, alot of government officials and chair members are part of oil companies and like our president before obama, an oil tycoon. if his 100mpg motor were to take to the consumer market, who would just be out of a TON of money? the government...
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Post by bcgreatness on Jan 9, 2012 16:58:12 GMT -6
as far as chrome parts go, im looking around for prices on: front fender, dash ( switch and gauge cluster housing ), front cabinet door, the air shroud under the seat at front of motor. chrome accessories i will be looking at after those include: cvt cover, fan cover ( maybe a scoop design ) and last thing chromed would probably be a head light cover replacement, as on my scooter ive not seen a chromed cover that will fit my headlight design, so i will have to get a new cover and also a new headlight assembly to chrome that out, but that would cost alot and i might not do that because i have a custom air brush artists that is going to paint my scoot. the more i chrome out the less space he has to work with lol. if you have any of those parts that are damaged and going for cheap let me know, if its all chrome i can fix it if its chrome covered plastic then ohwell its the thought that counts i will still put it on there. if the prices are right i will buy alot of body parts from you, i would prefer to do engine mods first but if prices look good.
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Post by bcgreatness on Jan 9, 2012 11:17:18 GMT -6
yeah the storage door, i couldnt believe the prices he has on his website. i added up the cost to add the chromed storage cover, the air vent cover under the seat, the chromed dash cover and a chrome head light assembly and a front fender cover and it totaled over 500$ before shipping, holy smokes!
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Post by bcgreatness on Jan 9, 2012 11:10:49 GMT -6
would you consider selling the scratched chrome pieces for a discounted price i would buy that as well and it would help you by clearing out some inventory that might not sell, depending in the severity of the damage. just an idea, if you consider, let me know! im interested.
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Post by bcgreatness on Jan 8, 2012 15:17:17 GMT -6
damn thats fast, bet thats not good on the engine though lol i bet a setup like that runs about a couple of Gs by time you get it set up to handle super high octane fuel, on top of the cost to make them look nice, on scooter chrome parts ( whos prices i dont agree with ) the chromed cabinet lid just under the dash runs about 90$, at that rate it would cost a fortune to chrome out the scoots like yall have them.
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Post by bcgreatness on Jan 7, 2012 18:00:52 GMT -6
another note, i see a few exhaust pipes in the backround, do you have any cheaper then the two bros pipes. those are expensive. looking for a slip on stainless steel setup for cheaper then 170$ ( not including S+H ) or if you just had a slip on exhaust pipe as i already have a slip on header pipe. let me know please =)
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Post by bcgreatness on Jan 7, 2012 17:58:36 GMT -6
ive been to your website and you dont have half of the stuff shown in the pics posted on the website, could you please update the website with all of the stuff from the pics? i will be making alot of purchases later on this year and i would rather buy from a reputable shop then get stuff on ebay and battle the nonsense. plus i would rather buy from you because im rican and your in PR. also the main logo on your website with the cartoon head with flame hair with the pr flag overlay, do you carry stickers of that? i would totally buy that.
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Post by bcgreatness on Jan 7, 2012 10:48:17 GMT -6
dangerous i would say, but it sure looks sweet lol. i guess its only good for the drag strip doing short 1/8 mile run. i seen a bike in PR run 10 seconds in the 8th which is probably about 13 or 14 seconds in the quarter ( which is still flying ) would still like to know where the rims are coming from. ive seen some on ebay but most of them are either outrageously priced or are from outside of the US with massive shipping costs and long wait times. on top of that i would hate to get scammed by some guy in china laughing hysterically as he processes my credit card numbers.
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Post by bcgreatness on Jan 6, 2012 19:51:26 GMT -6
how are yall slamming your scoots? ive seen alot of them in PR slammed down but im not sure how they are doing that. i can guess the rear are just clipped springs but how do you get it down on the front without throwing everything off of alignment? also where do you get your rims/chrome accessories? very interested. speakerbox is nice on that scoot but i dont imagine that you will have much room for your legs and feet, although us ricans are short and dont need much leg room lol.
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Post by bcgreatness on Jan 4, 2012 15:12:37 GMT -6
he sure is he got it to stop backfiring when i let off the throttle, now it pops really really loud when im in WOT let off for a second and then WOT again. it hesitates like i hit the kill switch for a split second then pops and then gains power. it does the popping when i slam it again after letting off. im 3 turns out on the carb, think i should try a little leaner? it sounds like a popping when i hold rpms around 5k-6k and i cant tell if its doing it when im WOT because between the wind and the muffler being as loud as it it, i cant tell but i think its doing that.
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Post by bcgreatness on Jan 4, 2012 14:09:29 GMT -6
how do you convert to leds? is there a special bulb that can just plug into the existing socket thats an LED or do i need to replace all sockets? also heres the results of the ride i took after adding the additional ground wire:
went on an hour ride and just got back, volts test steady 13.1vdc on and off i guess maybe thats the batteries peak or somthing. the tach going banannas was when the bike was running and no battery hooked up, i havent tested to see if it works without hitting the front brakes. i went on an hour ride and the last 10 mins of the ride was wot and i was toping out at about 60 in 3 lanes of traffic. got to a stop light and smelt somthing burning, looked back at muffler and there was a constant ball of fire coming out of the end of the pipe and almost looked as if it were on fire. pulled off into closest parkinglot and cut her off. as it was cooling off i looked inside of the pipe and it was red hot and the whole thing was smoking like a bandit. guess i should get a stainless steel pipe instead of a carbon fiber pipe so theres nothing to melt or burn. almost had a heart attack, good thing i was in the parking lot of a hospital lol the same hospital i had to take my wife to lastnight. anyhow, as all things go with motors, once a problem is solved you can expect the engine to usher in a new one =( im thinking the carb is not tuned properly or maybe because i didnt up jet and upgrade the intake that could cause it? i did notice alot of popping upon acceleration and also around 6k-7k rpm if i hold it its a constant popping or if im WOT and let off the gas ( it doesnt backfire then ) and after i let off for a second as it decelerates, i jam back to WOT then it stutters and then pops very loud. so im guessing on this one and hopefully the electric is solved. im going to the store to get stuff to make tacos for dinner, when i get back my mission will be to upload the pictures i took as i was installing the extra ground wire, i took one for every step of the way not including when i took all of the panels off because everybody knows what that looks like and should by now know how to do that lol. be back in about an hour or so.
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Post by bcgreatness on Jan 4, 2012 12:23:46 GMT -6
brake light is off with key on and kill switch off. ran a new ground wire ( posting pics soon ) dam ground had a quarter inch of paint on it got that all ground down to the metal even did that for the rectifier/regulator becuase i know they ground themselves out to the frame as a ground for the unit. all that done and the new ground wire, volts = 12.8vdc after start but they charged back up to 13.0-13.1vdc. now it does NOT change at all at WOT on the bike stand. the lights didnt get any brighter they are still somewhat dim. going on a long ride then will come back and test the volts on battery, then i will check the rectifier/regulators continuity to see if theres any breaks. will post back soon. wifes doing ok by the way lol
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Post by bcgreatness on Jan 3, 2012 20:44:08 GMT -6
will do, also how would i check the rectifier/regulator with my multi meter as i do NOT want to unplug it while its running ( already did that and blew all bulbs, thats about a 50$ mistake when you have to replace all the bulbs ) thanks =P
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Post by bcgreatness on Jan 3, 2012 15:58:57 GMT -6
did as was instructed and picked up a digital multi meter from walmart. these are the results.
battery hooked up with bike off: 13.28v dc
battery with bike running: 13.44v dc
battery unhooked: 13.22v dc ( weird )
bike running with no battery at idle ( tested the wires ): .33v dc
bike running with no battery at 6k rpm: .35-.42 v dc
bike running with no battery WOT: .48 v dc
the weird stuff: bike with no battery running, blinkers dont work, horn wont work, tach wont work.
when i hold the front brakes while bike is running with no battery the wires read 1.44v dc at idle and 5.00 - 6.00 v dc at WOT
when i hold the front brakes with bike running with no battery the tach begins to work.
did not test the rectifier/regulator as im not sure as to how just yet. any input would be appreciated.
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